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I dragged myself into the drawing room just in time to receive Mr
& Mrs Valerio. The latter & I fought a little, as we always do
when we meet, - this time over Fanny Kemble Butler. After a half hourâs
lively chat & a cup of chocolate, they left me to go and dine with
the Sadas in Sestri. The little Strettell girls then came in to see me -
the youngest, little Alma, eight years old, brought with her
associations that almost overcame me, but I was able to recover myself.
Mrs Strettell herself came later & was very kind & sympathising,
and Mr Strettell spent an hour with me later. I found him well
acquainted with American literature, a great admirer of Lowell, Holmes
etc. As to the latter, when I remarked that I never read his prose
without being painfully impressed with the conviction of the deep unrest
of the soul from which it came, Mr S. said that precisely the same
impression was made on him, that the very bitterness with which he, Dr
H, assaulted certain creeds distasteful to him was tremulous with his
own uncertainties. No one, certainly, can esteem Dr Holmes less for
being a seeker after truth. Such doubting as his is better a thousand
times than that utter want of all thoughts tha which so often passes for
faith. But it would certain surely be more graceful & more modest on
his part to abstain from attacking so virulently the beliefs of other
until he has himself made sure of some shining truth to give in place of
what he would take. - In the evening we all gathered round the tree
which was gay with flags & dolls & sugar plums and fairies. Mr
Strettell, after the distribution of the treasures, showed the children
the magic lantern, then followed charades, snapdragon & the usual
Christmas games. Young Mr Strettell however was very anxious to talk
over American affairs & we too soon forgot games and every thing
else in our zeal in our subject. He wished to know âwhy we complad
complained of Englandâ and I told him. As, fortunately, I was able to
support my statements by English admissions, the young gentleman was
soon hard pushed, the Baroness Gautier - a most intelligent and lovely
woman - turned from the plays to listen, and I soon found myself the
orator of the evening, with a most attentive audience. Indignation and
the deepest feeling on the subject supplied me with words even in a
foreign language and when, at twelve oâclock, I sat down before my own
dressing glass and saw my crimson cheeks and eyes in which the fire was
still burning, I could not help smiling - half in shame at my warth
warmth, half in pride at the truths I had brave enough to utter whole
& unvarnished.
A sleepless night, or almost so, the natural consequence of my little
strength and great zeal last evening, leaves me dull to-day, and half
ill - Mr Marsh returned at 9 P.M. from Turin. His interview with the
king was highly satisfactory, and the terms in which His Majesty
expressed his deep sympathy with our Government and his regard for Mr
Marsh personally were most gratifying. [illegible] What a shame that everything should be
published in such a way from our State Dep. that no minister dares write
even his Despatches with full freedom. Great regret & indignation is
felt at Turin at the recall of the Prussian Minister Count Brasier de St
Simon, who has been a staunch friend to Italy for eleven years. - The
new Ministry is popular and strong. Minghetti takes strong ground for
the cause of the North in our quarrel. the others friendly but less
demonstrative.
The settlement of monthly bills and a visit from the Consul used up
the day for me. I hoped that by this retreat into the country we might
reduce our expenses a little, but travelling back & forth from
Turin, charities, & churches and Christmas & N. Years gifts
& taxes have consumed every penny of our salary for the month just
finished - if we can only live here what we shall do in Turin this year
is a mystery.
Mr Tebbs before going to church sent us in the three sermons of
Arthur Perrhyn [Penrhyn] Stanley on the
inspiration of the Scriptures, and we read the two first with great
interest, and I have no doubt we shall find the third equal to the
others. Whatever may be said of the darkness of the signs of these
latter days, one thing at least it is pleasant to see; that Christians
occupying the most prominent positions are becoming more charitable in
their views, are taking broader and higher grounds, and are aiming at a
nobler, a purer, and a more active Christian life. This fact ought to
afford us some consolation for the terrible war which is ravishing one
hemisphere and threatening the other. Mr & Mrs Tebbs with their
daughter Signori Campazzi and Cochetti spent the evening with us. Poor
Mr Tebbs has suddenly become so deaf that it is almost impossible to
converse with him. I hope it is only temporary; he is really too much of
a saint to need afflictions of any kind.
Our bright sunshine, which left us about a week ago does not come
back. It is not cold enough to really to require a fire, but the
dampness makes very warm clothing most comfortable.
A rainy scirocco shuts us all up still, but the graces & the
volante furnish amusement & exercise for those who require them, and
it is a grand thing for those who wish to work - this exclusion of
outsiders.
Windows and doors were rattling, and shutters flapping all night in
something very like a gale. The scirocco drove the rain against the
windows with such force that we were threatened with an inundation
indoors. Our Milanese fellow guests, who are not very familiar with the
sea, were not a little frightened to see it come roaring up to the very
road, and seriously proposed migrating from the second to the third
story of the Stabilimento for fear the Mediterrenean would really pour
in at their windows. For a novice the idea was not so strange, for it
really actually seemed sometimes as if the whole ocean was rolling in
with the force of a cataract. The water is yellow with the wash from the
torrents for a mile or more beyond the shore. Early in the morning we
had heavy thunder but it lasted only a little while. Mr Marsh went out
in the midst of the storm to examine the swollen torrents which are
pouring down through the valleys - Altogether it is a grand sight
outside, but we cannot sit near enough to the windows to enjoy it, for
though by no means cold the dampness of the wind, and the spray it
drives in, make it too chilly to do so. We have no fire, though I
confess I should not object to one were it not that the natives assure
us that we are better off without it, that it would soon become
indispensable, that we should then lose the benefit of a fine climate
etc.
We have this morning American papers to the 23rd. Burnside assumes
the whole responsibility of the Fredricksburg attack. The manly
statement he makes, the heroic assumption to himself of the blame, if
blame there is, are in glowing contrast with the dark hints of the
shirkings and the shrinkings of his predecessor in command. It seems
certain (though he does not say so himself) that if Burnside had
received his pontoons when he had a right to expect them his success
would have been complete. With such an officer we may look for a
different campaign another spring even if no more can be done this
winter. The Cabinet Crisis has ended in smoke, and perhaps it is at
[as] well. It may be that a change at this
moment would not have been wise, but it is to be hoped that History will
be discriminating enough to point out the man or men who are really
responsible for the half-way measures that have cost us so much blood
and treasure and inflicted such suffering upon other countries as well
as our own.
Carrie went to Genoa to-day to make the Valerios a visit, Mr
Delaplaine of N.Y. brought a letter of introduction from our good friend
Lippitt of Vienna. Mr Delaplaine, if I donât misjudge him, is a young
man of fashion & fortune, of fair abilities, but of no higher
ambition than that of frequenting brilliant drawing-rooms. If our now
acquaintance had allowed his easy and agreeable manner to testify as to
his habitual associations he would have made a far more favorable
impression than he did. But a certain nervous eagerness to sieze every
occasion to speak of his intimacy with Mr Motleyâs family at Vienna, of
his free access to all the Dip. corps at that court - in short of his
great acquaintances every where - gave him a snobbish air that greatly
detracted from his otherwise gentlemanly bearing. - A lovely spring-like
day - quite too warm for fire.
Rainy & chilly again - snow not far off on the hills I fancy.
Prospect darkens as to a house in Turin - lowest offer yet being 15000
frcs per annum without any deduction in case of recall, change of seat
of government etc.
Carrie came back from Genoa at 1/2. 12 with Alex__. the Valerios did
not come on account of the rain. We read Dr Stanleyâs third Sermon on
the Inspiration of the scriptures - in the main admirable. In the
evening the Tebbses were with us - saintly souls that they are.
Mr Marsh left for Turin at 4 P.M. Mr Strettell having made us a short
visit first. An article in the London Times this morning on the very
subject on which Mr Marsh is now preparing a book has made him a little
nervous lest he might be anticipated. This would be rather hard when he
has been studying the subject for so many years, and only being
prevented by adverse circumstances from giving his thoughts upon it to
the world long before. In this day however if a man has anything to say
he must say it at once, or he is certain to be anticipated. This
coincidence of thought for which our age is so remarkable reminds one
constantly of the theory that ideas are floating about and strike on the
mental vision in a sort of random way - affecting now this brain now
that. One advantage will come of it, at least - our thinkers will be the
more modest for it. The glory of the sunshine to-day atones for all the
rain of the last week. Our thermometer is once more at 65 F. and we are
full of the praises of Pegli.
Miss Tebbs & Carrie go to the Strettells to-day as they are to
have a Charade party there to-night. I am glad to have C. join in these
games which are no mean part of an education.
Mr. M. & Alex__ came back between 11&12 P.M. They had been to
see Count Brasiers castle at Piobesi on the rail-way to Pignerolo, and
think we may manage to be comfortable there through the summer at least.
Mr M. proposes to take it from the first of March. The affairs of our
country now look so gloomy that we have little courage to make
arrangements for more than six months ahead. De Brasier went with Mr M.
to show his castle, and on the way told some curious circumstances
connected with the Greek Revolution which drove out the Bavarians &
gave obtained the Constitution from the king. He attributes the movement
& the execution of it to our old friend Kallurgi [Kallergis] and really makes out the general a
thorough hero. - The Casa dâAngennes has just been the theatre of a new
comic-tragedy. The man whom Mme de Saulmes has honored with the title of
husband was taken very ill there and actually died. The bereaved widow -
evil-speakers say acting in concert with Rattazzi - thought this a
favorable moment to escape unnoticed, and accordingly, leaving the dead
to bury their dead, she made her [illegible]
plans to have a carriage ready at what she supposed a safe hour, and was
just stepping into it when a policeman came up and told her she could
not go. Then followed a scene - threats, persuasion, tears - All
wouldnât do. The Countess Gherardiâs agent was inexorable. Rattazza was
sent for, but was equally unsuccessful in his efforts to compromise, At
last he promised to be responsible for the rent due, but even this was
not accepted till he gave a pledge in writing. Count de Brasier says the
king himself told him that âRattazzi was so infatuated by that woman
that he was good for nothing.â Mr M. had no talk this time with any one
connected with the ministry except Spaventa a round, grave little man
who does not look much as if he had lived so long in a Neapolitan
prison.
This morning we decided to take the castle of the Count and are to
take possession the first of March. Carrie, who came back from Genoa at
three P.M., is delighted with the idea of living in a castle which has
an old Roman tower attached to it - and had, besides, cloisters & a
chapel. The fact that most of the present inhabitable part is modern
does not greatly calm her imagination which revels in the prospect of
haunted corridors, hid treasures etc. By the way, the Count says that
when the present structure was built eighty thousand lire in gold were
actually found buried in vessels of old Venetian glass.
We were rejoiced last night by the news that the Pres. had actually
issued his Proclamation on the first of Jan. as he had promised, though
many feared without the courage to perform. May this be the omen of
better days for the Republic. This is again the third day of rain - we
get on without fire, though I confess it would be more agreeable with
it. The sky looks better however & I look for sunshine
to-morrrow.
Alas for my reputation as a seer. Last evening I promised to be
responsible for a fine day to-day - and lo! an east wind, the sky
covered thickly and the rain falling fast! I sit in garments of
humiliation - but I canât help believing that if I had given the
elements on which I based my calculation to any one of my craft he would
have come to the same conclusion that I did. After a three days rain
from the east & south, the wind changed to west and Northwest, the
clouds were soon swept away, and at 1/2 past 10 we went to bed, a
northwest wind blowing briskly, the stars shining gloriously. At seven
this morning the wind was in the east again, and we are now apparently
at the beginning of another three days spell.
The weather is so bad that even our church-going friends, the Tebbs,
could not get to Genoa for services. The reports from the St Gotthard
are most distressing - whole villages buried by avalanches In one
instance near Aivrola more than thirty lives have been lost, and only
seven of the bodies have been found. Many other persons have perished in
the vicinity, and the destruction of cattle is very serious At Locarno,
on L. Maggiore, a church-roof was crushed in, last sunday, by the [illegible] weight of the snow and forty seven persons
killed - all women & girls with the exception of one old man. Even
in Turin there has been a great alarm about roofs. One house roof has
fallen in, the beautiful new wine market has been crushed, and more
accidents are feared. The workmen employed to clear the roofs &
streets have had a strike declaring they would no longer do this severe
& dangerous work for a franc - 20cts. a day - when the proprietors
of the houses had tripp tripled their rents and when the cost of living
was so greatly increased for the poor man as well as for the rich. It is
a comfort to see these poor down-trodden creatures beginning to
understand their rights and getting to assert them.
It seems to me I have never seen a lovlier day. After so long a rain
we looked for a cold north wind to bring a clear sky - this morning was
without a cloud, but so still that not a leaf moved. And now at 3 P.M.
our room is like summer & the invalids are all sunning themselves
out-doors on the beach or in the gardens. Carrie has been with Mrs Tebbs
to pay the Baroness Gautier a visit at the Villa Doria & has come
back full of enthusiasm about the charming Baroness and her charming
apartment and the wonderful garden with its oranges its camellias etc.
By the way we are glad to know the the Gautiers have a summer villa near
our castle at PiĂČbesi, - what a name! It must have been bestowed by some
old Hun or Vandal before he was had been [illegible] converted to Christianity.
Mr Field & Mr Vincent from the U.S. came here this morning, both
clergymen I think - the latter I am sure is. He is in the worst of
health. Poor man - he had been obliged to pass some weeks in England
& Scotland lately, and he is as full of indignation as a Christian
can be at the spirit generally manifested towards our country in this
her day of darkness. If it is true that adversity teaches us who our
reall real friends are we need be at no loss how to class Great Brittain
after this. Mr Field is from Illinois an instructor, and, I fancy,
preacher besides, at any rate he is earnest & intelligent. He says
he amused himself and his English fellow guests at the hotel sunday eve
by reading to them Mrs Stowes late letter to the women of England. Mr F.
is on his way to Palestine. - The Opinione to-day gives an account of
another fearful avalanche which the other day buried a whole village not
far from Domodossala. More than eighty persons perished. Our visitors
who left Turin saturday says that there was at least 2 feet of snow in
the neighbourhood - that at La Tour it was much deeper and Dr Malan told
them that the valley was full of anxious hearts dreading every moment
the thunder and the crash of the avalanche. They also say that when they
entered the tunnel a few miles north of Genoa the whole face of the
country was thickly covered with snow and wore in all respects the
aspect of a severe winter. 7 minutes after, they emerged from the
tunnel, - an almost tropical landscape was spead [spread] out before them, bathed in a soft scirocco
and golden with ripe oranges. - They looked at the roses and narcissuses
which Alex. had just brought me from the garden with evident wonder.
To-day we have had one of those spring days which, more than ever
wine or oil, make glad the heart of man. But the bounding of the pulses,
which such an atmosphere, such a sky and such scenery cause in the
young, is kept down in us who are older by ever mutiplying memories of
loss upon loss, loss upon loss. Since the first day like this last
spring the brightest of the rising stars in my horizon has passed
forever out it until it shall broaden into eternity. There may I, and
those to whom its setting was like the going-down of the noonday-sun,
behold it again safe forever from every dimming sorrow from every
darkening eclipse. - This evening Mr Campazzi told us a good deal of the
history of Ausonio Franchi now professor of the History of Philosophy or
the Philosophy of History - I canât say which it is, as he has at
different times filled both chairs - in the University of Pavia.
Francesco Bonavino was the name of this great thinker while he was still
a priest - a priest in good faith, an enthusiast as sincere as
St. Francis dâAssisi. Then came doubts which, says Campazzi, âshook him
like a tempestâ. His struggle was long and terrible, shattering his
health, but not impairing the force of his intellect. At last he
renounced every thing of his former self, even his very name, & and
[sic] adopted the Rationalism of the Germans -
that school so preeminently lacking in the most divine of human
attributes - humility. Would to God this great man, so pure in heat
& life had fallen upon something better. See Monnierâs accounts of
him, p. 362, LâItalie est-elle etc.
I had an ahnung as the Germans say that Mrs Valerio would be tempted
to come down to us by the lovely bright weather, and I was not mistaken.
She came about one, and passed two or three hours with us - looks very
ill, but was lively and amusing. She spoke of her letters from home as
being still cheerful in their tone as to the prospects of the Country.
Heaven knows where they see anything bright. The glow doesnât extend to
this hemisphere at any rate. She rather interested us by her account of
Asproni - a well-known republican, and great friend of Lorenzo Valerio.
I enjoyed Mrs Valerioâs visit as I always do, for she is full of bright
thoughts, but it is a sad pity that her nerves are so shattered, and a
greater one still that she has received so mistaken an education.
These journey to Turin come so often. Mr Marsh is again on his way
there, not without much grumbling. It breaks in sadly upon his work and
he really might do all the business of the Legation here, just as well
as there, except when it is necessary to see the Ministry. Since the
whole work devolves on him it does seem rather hard that he cannot be
allowed to do it in the way most convenient to himself. If our
government would make it a point to send men abroad who have
consciences, it would not be necessary to bind them by petty
regulations.
Mr Marsh came home at nine this evening with the usual budget of bad
news from America, and none very good from any quarter. We are not
likely to get possession of our Castle I fear before the first of April.
The Count promises it for the middle of March -, but as workmen are to
be sent there on the first of March, I know too well how much waiting
this implies. The resignation of Ricci is regretted, but De Negro is to
take his place. No more changes talked of Just now. The Duchess left
Genoa for Naples yesterday, the new Prefetto, Marchese dâAfflitto going
with her suite. We had a pleasant visit from the Baron and Baroness
Gautier this afternoon. They are both much interested in American
politics.
The bad news from America or something else quite knocked me up last
night, and I was really so ill as to fear being obliged to send for a
physician - a hard alternative for me. This morning I feel better, and I
hope two or three days more will release me from the imprisonment I have
suffered for the last ten days, not having been strong enough to go down
to dinner during that time. The weather is beyond all praise, and makes
even me so used to confinement as I am, long to get out. This evening
the Duchesse De La Forceâs maid brought a huge bouquet of camelias, red,
white, and variagated, just gathered from her garden. It was indeed a
feast to the eye.
Carrie and I, after hurrying through lessons, spent a good part of
the day trying Ruskinâs experiments with water-colours, a labour just
suited to my present capacity and my position in bed. Such a sunset as I
enjoyed while the rest were at dinner more than compensated me for a
solitary meal. I certainly never have seen finer sunsets than one sees
here.
Carrie took a long walk with Mrs Tebbs and the Signori, Ca as far as
the asbestos mountain. The Spring flowers are already out in the warm
nooks of the valleys - the primrose, the sweet-violet, &c. Mr Marsh
did not go out feeling quite feverish, partly no doubt from a long rapid
walk in the sun yesterday. He insisted however that he was well enough
to sit by my bedside and read to me for an hour, which he did from that
terrible book of Michelet - La SorciĂšre. Such a story at that of the
poor La Cadiere makes one ask in wonder why God does not blast his Adam
with the lightnings of heaven rather than suffer the earth to be
polluted with such crimes.
âUn giorno di Paradiseâ says Alexander and so it is. I shall leave
the Riviera with a great heartache little as I have albe [able] to enjoy any thing except what I can see from
my windows. But who could ask for more - the great and ever-changing
sea, directly before us, the light-house of Genoa crowning the first
head-land on our left while something of the proud city herself may be
seen, promontory after promontory stretching out on our right until we
almost seem to see Nice itself - then behind us such hills & valleys
such gardens and orange-orchards as one sees in oneâs young dreams. A
letter from Mme De Bunsen this morning gives me an account of Turin
gayities gaieties - thank heaven, that in the present condition of our
poor country, I am out of the way of all concern in them. Even if I had
the strength for such a life I could not have the heart for it now.
My imprisonment in my chamber lasts longer than usual this time &
I particularly regret it as we had planned a drive towards [illegible] Savona to-day, and the most brilliant
& soft of spring-days is tempting us. But it is out of the question
I find on trying to dress so I must content myself with watching C. at
her water-colors, only giving now & then a glance at the bright,
âthe innumerable laughterâ of the sea which threatens to blind us but
which we canât bear to shut it out. - To-day we received some books from
England - among them the Life of Bishop Bowen. What a blessing it is to
have known such a man!
Little change within-doors or without - the most perfect of days with
not strength enough to go out to enjoy it. But with Mr Mâs & C,s
help I manage to occupy myself even on my bed - for I am so far on the
way out of it.
Mr Wheeler & Mrs Valerio drove out to us for a couple of hours,
Mr W. enjoyed his trip to Naples, as every man with eyes & ears
must, immensely. Mrs V. was as bright as ever and more rational than
often - likes âDown among the Pinesâ extremely and is to bring it to me.
- We read Franchi after they left. He is lacking in good taste, does not
understand the Philosophy of Protestantism which he pretends to explain,
but he is clear & logical, if you admit his premises, in the narrow
path into which he has as yet taken us.
The rain of sat. & yesterday made the roads too wet for the
pleasant drive to which better health & returned sunshine invite me.
Occupation, however, is abundant within-doors. Letters, lessons, mss.
etc etc.
Carrie and I took Mr Marsh to Genoa in a carriage, on his way to
Turin. The air was soft and delicious, the sea and the hills most
beautiful to behold. Sestri and Cornigliano were full of industrious
activity, and Genoa herself could hardly have looked more busy in the
proudest days of the Republic. Here at least the Italians are not lazy.
Having some spare time we drove a little out of the city toward the
Levante, returned and took a look at the new monument to Colombus, which
in some respects is very fine, left Mr Marsh at the station, and
returned home in time for dinner - As we turned the lighthouse point on
our way back, I thought I had never seen anything finer than the broad
sweep of the bay before us, held in the embrace of promontory after
promontory, headland after headland, and overlooked by hills so
beautiful in form and vegetation. The glimpses one gets into the valleys
by looking up the torrent beds, are enchanting.
The weather was so showery this morning that Mrs Valerio could not
come to us as had been arranged, so Carrie and I amused ourselves with
hard work. In the evening Signor Campazzi came to give her a lesson, but
somehow we fell into a discussion of Franchiâs rationalism, his
explanation of Protestantism &c., and it was half past nine before
we thought of it. My Italian was by no means equal to my subject, but I
got on with it better than I could have believed, and Signor Campazzi
seemed to understand my meaning. He spoke with great frankness of his
own religious difficulties, and I could not help profoundly regretting
that he could not read English, as I am sure I could give him some
English books that would give him a clearer notion of the religious
philosophy of Protestantism than he now possesses. He clings to
Crestianity [Christianity] still, though
harassed at times by doubts and difficulties. It is a pity that the
Italian Roman Catholic, when he first begins to think, has
Wednesday
The Baroness Gautiers came in towards evening - to return George
Sauer on La Traite, etc and to express her regret at being out when Mr
Marsh went to pay her a visit on Monday. We discussed Turinese social
matters a little, especially the Benedetti difficulties of last winter.
I found she was well acquainted with the disagreeable meeting of the
hostile parties in my drawing room. She is disposed to defend the stand
taken by the Turinese ladies in general, but condemns the Doria, not so
much I fancy for her course towards Mme Benedetti, as for her saying
openly that if other ladies had been neglected it might have been
pardonable, but she, she who had expended so much for Turinese society,
she who occupied such a position, was not to be treated in that way! - .
Mr Marsh and Alec. returned at eleven this evening - the latter very
much excited. A robbery was committed in the compartment next to him,
and the rascals jumped from the carriage just before it arrived at Novi.
It seems that the compartment had only been occupied by two persons - a
lady and a merchant - until they reached Alessandria, when four men
entered. When the train was well under way, they seized the merchant who
was badly wounded in the scuffle, took what money they could find, and
jumped out, as I said before. This seems rather serious to Alec. who
generally is obliged to carry a good deal of money, and who brought more
than 2000 frs for us the last time.
nothing to read but the works of the rationalists.
Mrs Valerio spent the day with us - partly in reading: âDown among
the Pinesâ, to me - It is curious to see how perfectly the South
understood the New York statesman - I never had but one conversation
with him, and up to that period I had believed Mr Marsh, who
constitutionally forms rapid and decided judgments, to be somewhat
unjustly - prejudiced against him. After that conversation of fifteen
minutes I believe I never apologized again for the great apostle of
Anti-Slavery. Mrs Valerioâs letters from New York are depressing,
Democracy is rampant, dissention is increasing, pride of Country dying
out, and a disposition everywhere to have peace even on terms which must
forever leave us disgraced in the eyes of the civilized world. May
Heaven avert such a consummation! We were much interested in R.H. Danaâs
account of the Hindostaneeâs bequest in token of his sympathy in the
Northern cause. The anecdote of poor Captain Wainwrightâs noble boy is
most touching, but I should have expected as much from his fatherâs
son.
Mr March took a long walk after writing some twenty pages of
manuscript for his new book. He stumbled upon a copper foundary [foundry] far up the Varenna valley, and made an
engagement with the workmen to go on Monday with Mrs Tebbs and the girls
to see the casting. He was much interested
Wednesday.
Mr Marsh brought from Turin the report of the marriage of Rattazzi
with the witch de Solmes, confirmation of which appears in the journals.
To such a depth has the ex-minister fallen! I wish I could get hold of a
number of the Fischetto published on the occasion. Even the king is said
to lament the infatuation of the Commendatore.
by the mode in which the beat out the thin copper vessels so much in
use here. He reports the hill-sides literally carpeted with flowers.
Carrie did not go with him being deep in water-colours when invited. Mr
Tebbs gave us this evening an amusing anecdote of Lord Brougham., A
friend who had given him the lives of the Lord Chancellors, written by a
personal enemy of his lordship, (who of course knew that the author was
only waiting for him to die before adding him to the list) and
afterwards enquired how he liked the book. âIt adds another pang to
death,â said the witty old Lord.
This morning we have home papers and letters again, all blue enough.
There is a letter of the President addressed to Gen. McClellan while the
latter was in the Peninsula which I trust will somewhat damage this mock
hero in his prospects for the next Presidency - supposing the Republic
to survive long enough to witness another election. A letter from this
side the water has made us laugh in spite of the grave character of
those from the other side. Some person or persons in Geneva are
professing to be about publishing a new and very choice biographical
dictionary. - They have been teasing Mr Marsh for the last year to give
them some facts and dates with regard to his own personal history. At
last to get rid of their importunities he wrote some half-dozen lines,
giving a few dates etc. etc. Now he has a letter acknowledging the
reception, and intimaitimating [intimating] that
they shall fill up the skeleton in terms more or less comonendatory
[commendatory] according to the sum of money he
may be pleased to send them. For a hundred and fifty francs they will
make it respectable, - for five hundred, it shall be very handsome, and
occupy so much space - for a thousand they will pile on the
superlatives, and give him several pages!! I pretended to take the
matter seriously and asked him what he should do? He looked at me with
such an expression of reproachful astonishment that I could hardly keep
my countenance till he had said - âIf I cant go down to posterity
without paying for it, Iâll stay here.â After this I did not feel bound
to preserve my gravity. Our friends, the Tebbses were not a little
amused when we told them this evening the story of the âImmortality
Office.â
We divided the day between Dr. Stanleyâs History of the Jewish
Church, and Ausonio Franchiâs Religion of the nineteenth century. The
latter is most successful as a sharp-shooter at the Romish Church, but
he has by no means the breadth or the learning of the Englishman. Dr
S__âs sketch of Abraham is very fine, that of Jacob inferior to
Robertson on the same subject. He expresses what would once have been
called most unorthodox opinions with regard to the inspiration of the
Old Testament, but while he does so in the plainest terms, he still
preserves very carefully such phrases as the âsacred record,â âsacred
narrative,â etc. This serves to relieve the shock that some persons
might otherwise feel, on reading his book, and we are amused to find our
most excellent friend, Mr Tebbs, quite satisfied with Dr. Stanley, while
he condemns Bishop Colenso for âdigging under the ancient foundationsâ
as he calls it. In the evening Signor Cocchetti came in with the
Tebbses, but we did not renew the discussion which I should have
mentioned having taken place last evening, which both Campazzi and
Cocchetti passed with us. I tried to connect some of Signor Cocchettiâs
false impressions, with regard to Protestantism but I found it next to
impossible. His idea of our religion is a very ugly one, though, if he
but knew it, he thinks almost precisely with us. Transubstantiation he
holds to be a fiction well enough suited to the gross conceptions of an
ignorant peasantry, the celibacy of the priesthood he condemns utterly,
indulgences no less, and the temporal power of the pope he declares to
be demoralizing and pernicious. With all this, he loves his Church, but
says he does not believe according to its teachings with regard to all
outside its pale - Protestant or Pagan - namely, that there is no
possible salvation for them. I asked him if this was generally believed
by Roman Catholics. âOh, yesâ, he said, âmost of those who believe
anything, believe that,â and he told Mrs Tebbs that even our charming
acquaintance the Baroness Gautiers, with all her intelligence and
culture, and with all her sweet gentleness of manner towards us, sighed
to think that we were all inevitably doomed to a most uncomfortably
climate in the next world.
Mr Marsh took a large party up the Varenna to the copper foundery
[foundry] this afternoon. I was looking for a
good many hours for myself, but Mrs Valerio and Mrs Sada broke in
unexpectedly upon my solitude., Instead of the meditation hours which I
was anticipating I had an hour or two of practice in speaking Italian of
which I was very glad. La Signora Sada seems very amiable and, what is
remarkable here, is not ashamed to own that she is fond of her husband,
and unhappy when his business takes him from her, but was surprised to
learn that we had no nobility in the United States, and couldnât imma
imagine how we could get on without it. This piece of information was
given her accidentally through Mrs Valerioâs mist mistaking nubile for
nobile. The walkers came back very tired and Miss Tebbs and Carrie
brought the little Strettells to stay all night as the poor children
were so tired fatigued
Giacchino and Alec. took Carrie into Genoa for photograph, shopping
etc., and we old crones stayed at home book-making. We had an hours
visit from Mrs Strettell who is always wide awake, and she took the
children home.
We drove this afternoon to Arranzano [Arenzano], some eight miles on the Nice road, The day
was very bright, and the view charming, but there was a chill in the
North wind which made me tremble for the almond trees now in full
flower. The railroad-work has recommenced beyond Voltri, and between
that town and Arranzano much progress has been made. It seemed to us as
if putting the short tunnels together, nearly half the track must be
underground, and I could not help thinking how strangely it must strike
the first travellers over it when the whole track should be completed.
One must feel as if vibrating like a pendulum between the realms of
Pluto and the Fields of Paradise, - one moment in the blackness of
darkness - then in the rich gardens of the Riviera with the blue
Mediterrenean on one hand, and the pure sky of Italy over oneâs head,
but before the eye can recover from its first dazzle, all will be
darkness again, and so on hour after hour Fantasic as must be the effect
of such railway travelling, we could not help bitterly lamenting the
semi-destruction of this most beautiful of carriage roads, which is
already much damaged by the rail-roadway operations, frequently crossed
by its track, so much of which lies parallel to it that when once the
steam-carriages are running it will be unsafe to drive with horses not
accustomed to the sight and the noise of the locomotive.
Mrs Wheeler came to spend a few hours with us, bringing her two
oldest boys. She comes out wonderfully on acquaintance, and with a
little time and opportunity for improvement she will soon show that she
has capacity for it. She has an abundance of good sense, and a degree of
personal beauty that would be remarkable if she had the manner and the
money to set it off. I took her to the upper terrace of the house where
I have never been before myself. The cold wind of yesterday had died
away and the air was as soft as on a June day in New England. As I
looked east-ward toward the lighthouse point which partially hides
Genoa, then at the grand headland beyond the city, then at the sweep of
the hills forming a semi-circle from east by north to west, I felt such
a longing to take my pencil in my hand once more, that the tears came to
my eyes quite unawares.,
This morning occurred another curious instance of the peculiar way in
which business transactions are carried on in Italy. Among the many
houses we had been negotiating for this winter is that belonging to the
dâ Azeglio family. We sent Alec. to enquire the terms. He assured us
that it would not be rented for less than fifteen thousand francs
annually, and not for a shorter period than two years, that the
Marchese, and the agent were both very decided that these were their
last terms. I persuaded Mr Marsh however to request Mr Artoni to offer
12.000 frs., thinking that if this was accepted as there were rooms
enough for the Legation, and for Mr Clay and Mr Artoni, it would be
better than anything we were likely to do. Mr Artoni brought the same
answer as Alec. had done, and of course we gave the thing up. Now, two
months later, we receive a letter saying that we can have the house if
we wish it - and this just after we have taken, and paid the rent of a
house in the country at an inconvenient distance, and with the
probability of being obliged to leave it at the end of six months, or a
year at best. A similiar affair happened the other day. Count Villa
marina, who had written a note with his own hand to say that the price
of the apartment would be 18,000 frs. sent us word that we might have it
for twelve. These things are excessively trying to the patience of
Englishmen or Americans. Mrs Valerio drove down from Genoa and passed
most of the day with us. She brought a photograph of poor Maj. Sedgwick
a fine brave-looking fellow. Mrs V. with much that is attractive, makes
me constantly feel what a pity it is for such fine powers should be
useless for want of thorough education in some directions, and perverted
by a false one in others. Her cousin, Miss Jane Sedgwick, a pervert now
in Rome, has evidently obtained great influence over her by assuming to
possess, (and no doubt really supposing she does possess) reads a vast
deal of ecclesiastical learning. O for some educator to arise who should
be able to make his pupils understand something of the nature of true
learning - who could point out to them some of the innumerable
storehouses of knowledge, on every conceivable subject, into to which
they can never hope to penetrate. The greatest need we have now in the
way of teachers seems to me to be a class whose business shall be to
teach people how ignorant they are and ever must be on almost every
subject to which they cannot devote their lives. We should then have
less of that flippant impertinence which assures you. â__ knows every
thing that is to be said on both sides, she has thoroughly examined the
subject etc.â In one instance of this kind I longed to say to Mrs V. âmy
dear friend, neither of us three - your cousin, you or I - is any more
capable of deciding questions of ecclesiastical history or doctrinal
criticism than we are of demonstrating the truth of the Newtonian
Theory, or of showing up its falseness. Nor can we ever hope to be in
this life even if we were to devote what remains of it to this subject
alone. We have not had - and no woman in our country has had - the
necessary previous training. The required knowledge is not within our
reach - we lack the discipline to make use of it, if it were.â Then I
recollected that such an assertion would carry no conviction with it and
I was silent.
Carrie could not read aloud on account of a severe cold, and I was
obliged to make a meditation-day of it. The Baroness Gautier dined with
us and we passed the evening pleasantly in the common salon.
Mr Marsh returned at three, well but not in very good spirits. The
news from America seems to him very discouraging although I cannot quite
see it so myself. The Democrats have certainly not grown strong since
the last news, and I dread them far more than the open rebels. He
reports the Carnival as very brilliant. Among the many magnificent cars
was an Africa triumphant - a large platform, borne by six horses, on
which were growing palm trees, banannas, etc. On it, too, were standing
some of the first nobility of Turin disguised as Africans, wearing
liberty-caps etc. This was no doubt in compliment to President Lincolnâs
proclamation. One of the masks was in the dress of a Southern slave
wearing a broad coarse Palmetto There were many other cars of a very
expensive and showy character. The wine-dealers had one in the form of a
huge champaign basket into which were loaded wine casks of every shape
gaily painted and gilded. On these were seated some dozen persons each
wearing on his head what seemed to be a large champaign bottle gaudily
labelled. The photographers had also their car which was in excellent
taste and must have been very expensive. There was an infinite amount of
gaity and no less good-humour. It is wonderful how these Italians manage
to get on without the least quarreling under circumstances where an
English or American crowd would be in a row at once.
Carrie went to Genoa to see the Carnival with Mrs Valerio. Here it
was a very sorry affair. She returned at eight and reported the Genoa
carnival, too, a failure. The Prefet had forbidden the throwing of
Confetti, but also interfered with a demonstration in favour of the
Polish revolution, and so the people pouted.
We have now further details of the news from American of the 5th, and
are glad to find it does not look so bad. The affair of Charleston is of
no great importance - far more than outweighed by other small successes,
and the election of Gov. Morgan to the Senate is a most important
triumph over the Democracy. On the whole things look a little more
hopeful.
C. & I occupied ourselves desperately all day try ing to outdo
Mrs Tebbs in painting an orange truly in water-colors. I ground the
paints and advised while C. operated. Our success was not
discouraging.
Alas for mortal ambitions! Our triumph in the affair of the orange
has cost C. an attack of inflamation of the eyes and we are both of us
compelled to utter idelness to-day - I in bed she by the side of it.
All day we read - that is Mr Mr. read to us - Stanleyâs History of
the Jewish Church - most interesting, but not so very orthodox and nor
so very Churchman-like. Towards evening Baron Gautier came in, and later
the mysterious Gen. Haug, with a friend from Sweden. All three of our
visitors think trouble in Naples imminent. Some persons predict that
V.E. Rex. will abdicate soon in d order to pursue his own tastes with
less restraint. Prince Umberto is very popular, but very young and in
danger of falling into bad hands. Poor Italy seems doomed to a new
relapse and a new convulsion.
The breakdown in the family has become so complete and so general
that Mr Marsh alone pretends to do anything today, and even he is a
little threatened with erysipelas. Our good friend Mr Tebbs however has
thriven so well under our prescription of Doverâs powder that he is once
more able to go down to dinner. After suffering several days from severe
cough, great difficulty of breathing and sleeplessness, (during all
which time he stoutly resisted everything in the form of opium, from
principle,) I at last luckily suggested a Doverâs powder as âa simple
old English medicine composed chiefly of ipecacâ. Both he and Mrs Tebbs
remembered that it was much used in England, and quite innocent. We sent
it in, and the good man slept quietly and found himself much refreshed
in the morning by the rest. Towards evening he complained of some
langour, and of still more the night following, but Mr Marsh sent him a
little Bourbon Whisky, which set him quite right again. We had a quiet
laugh between ourselves over the pious fraud we had practiced, and have
now the satisfaction of seeing our poor friend quite comfortable,
whereas three days ago he really seemed as if he might sink away at any
moment.
The London Times, the Record etc., are much taken up, next to the
Polish rebellion, with the prosecution of Rev. Mr Jowitt [Jowett]. Dr Pusey writes, Maurice replies, Dr Pusey
writes again, a Protestant reponds vehemently, M__. from Baliol [Balliol] speaks even more warmly - in fact the
controversy waxes hot. The Record attacks Dr Stanley with some effect,
but with more want of fairness - on the whole a storm seems brewing
likely to shake the Church of England to its very foundations.
England shows her characteristic selfishness, and at the same time a
certain generous natural impulse, in the course she is taking in the
affair of Poland. She blames Russia, scolds Prussia soundly, and thinks
France would do well to make a war in this great course of humanity. Of
course she couldnât do anything herself that would endanger her national
peace, or, to interpret her fairly, her pecuniary prosperity, but why
shouldnât France? Isnât it a noble cause? The Italian papers comment
playfully but shrewdly upon this barefaced egotism of English statesmen,
- who They threaten Prussia with Napoleon and Garibaldi, but intimate
clearly that they intend to keep out of the mess. Count Stackelberg
payid Mr Marsh a visit this morning. He is trying to engage a Villa in
Pegli for the summer. This is the second time Mr Marsh has seen the
Russian Minister, and on the whole he likes him. The poor man lost his
wife some he years ago in Turin when he was Minister there for the first
time. We have often heard her spoken of there as being one of the most
beautiful women ever seen at that capital, and a fine character. The
Count was so crushed by her death that he resigned and left Turin at
once; he returns after several years, but his former acquaintances say
only a wreck of himself, and each time that he has seen Mr Marsh he has
spoken of the overwhelming calamity that befel him while in Italy
before, and of the indifference with which he now regards life, except
for the sake of his children. We Anglo-Saxons must admit that even
Russians are sometimes capable of strong domestic attachments.
Rather better news from America this week, and Mr Marsh would have
left for Turin in better spirits than usual had he not been somewhat
indisposed. I hope the journey may do him good, though he finds these
frequent rail-road trips very disagreeable.
This morning an American boy announced himself as wishing to see Mr
Marsh. I sent for him, and a young slender-looking lad apparently in bad
health came in. He told me that he had been travelling with Mr Hunt, as
his valet, that he had met with a severe accident in Naples - broken his
back, as he expressed it - and that after being confined more than three
months in the hospital he was now trying to get hime. His pale face,
hollow eyes, and evident weakness confirmed the story of his illness. I
asked how the accident happened. âI was larking maâam,â was his
tremulous answer. âLarkingâ?, I said, âwhatâs that?â âMe and an English
valet, maâam, we were larking, and I fell in trying to jump some high
bars.â The tears were trembling in the eye of the poor boy as he said
this, or I should certainly have laughed. He went on to tell me that Mr
Hunt was obliged to leave him at Naples, but that he treated him most
kindly, took him to the Protestant hospital, made arrangements for
paying all his expenses while there, and gave him a hundred and fifty
francs besides. He spoke gratefully too, of Mrs Wilson, the English
matron of the hospital. With the money given him by Mr Hunt he had come
as far as Turin. Here Mr Clay gave him five francs to take him to Genoa,
and from Mr Marsh to hoped to get enought to take him to Nice, where he
would find a friend and relative in Mr Slade, the consul. Through his
aid he expected to get to Paris, and there he was sure Dr McClintock,
who had already befriended him when there before, would be able to give
him advice and aid. I do not know how much of imposture there may be in
this story, but it was told with such a simple unconscious pathos that I
have seldom been more moved. Then too he was so frank in stating the
amount with which he could manage to reach Nice. âBut,â I said, âwill
eight francs give you a bed on the steamer?â âOh no,â he answered, âbut
I could get on with a deck passage.â His lips quivered while he was
speaking, and he seemed very grateful when I told him that I should give
him enough to have a comfortable bed which he certainly needed. He
stated his age at nineteen - much older than he really looked - and gave
his name as Henry Green, his father and family now living in Bath,
Maine.
I was prevented from going to Genoa to meet Mr Marsh by the combined
opposition of a high wind and a headache. He came at four, and brought
news of the dangerous illness of Mr Sartiges. The Ministry seem to get
on without serious difficulty, the sinistra being by no means numerous
or powerful. There is a wide-spread dissatisfaction, however, throughout
most parts of Italy with the government generally. The House of Savoy,
at least so far as the present King is concerned, has lost much of its
hold on the affections of the new kingdom, and the Republican element is
said to be gathering strength. With the undisguised hostility of all the
governments of Europe, and Gret Britain besides, against republics,
there is little hope that any good will grow out of this fresh impulse
in the Republican direction. Victor Emmanuel is certainly not all that
one could desire in a King, but he honestly adheres to the Constitution
in spite of bad advice, he is brave, and generous, and it will be an
evil day that sees his people rise against him. There seems to be but
[illegible] two choices for Italy now - to
submit with as much dignity as possible to the course France has taken,
or to defy her. With the first the people are not satisfied, and as to
the second they admit it would be madness. In the meantime they grumble
because their rulers do not find out some impossible third course by
means of which they shall get Rome, retain the friendship of France,
force Austria to give up Venetia, and quiet disaffection everywhere. - I
must note here a new proof of the depravity of human nature in addition
to the many already adduced from the time of the Fathers down. No sooner
had I bestowed my twenty francs upon the pale, hollow-eyed trembling
invalid who had broken his back while larking with his English friend,
than instead of embarking for Nice as he pretended was his intention, he
went straight back to Turin, and arrived in time to catch Mr Marsh while
still there. He was equally successful in his imposition upon him,
though the liveliness of his imagination led him to invent a different
story for the occasion. When we compared notes we had a hearty laugh at
our own expense - and yet after all, it is always painful to find onesâ
self decieved in this way by one so young, and it is sometimes a
temptation to refuse to give in cases where there is a real need of
charity.
We read Stanley all day, Carrie having gone to church with the
Tebbses. The controversy between Jowitt, Pusey etc grows hot. The best
letter I have seen is one from Dr. Close, witty and good-tempered. The
AthenĂŠum contains some startling revelations with regard to Dr Pusey and
his twenty eight Protestant nunneries especially that of Miss
Sellon.
The Baron and Baroness Gautiers, the Strettells the Tebbses, and we,
together with the young people made an excursion up the valley of the
Acqua Santa, - a drive of an hour and a half from our Stabilimento. It
is a lovely valley even at this season, but in summer when its
magnificent chestnut orchards are in leaf it must be most exquisite. We
enjoyed our holiday extremely, especially those of the party who were
able to walk. Several of them came home over the hills quite to Pegli
and were not over-tired either. The Strettells staid all night, and we
had some amusing games, though the absence of the Signori Cocchetti and
Campazzi reduced our numbers too much for a great success in this
way.
Mrs Valerio came at one, and Mr Marsh and I took her to drive a
little beyond Voltri. The day was even more perfect than yesterday, and
I never saw any part of the Riviera look more enchanting. We longed to
go on to Arranzano, but Mrs V__ . was obliged to return for the train at
four. She says her friends write a little more hopefully from New York,
but we cannot see much here to encourage us as to the fate of our
Country. I was glad to get an opportunity of bringing Mrs Valerio and
the Strettells together; it may do something to save her from the
influence of that half-educated cousin of hers at Rome. Mr S__ . is a
man for whom oneâs respect is increased by every interview. He is a much
more liberal man than I supposed him at first. He speaks of Dr. Maurice
as one of his most intimate friends. His affection for his little Alma
is very touching, and when I see father and child together there rises a
half involuntary aspiration that they may never be separated as so many
parents and children have been.
This morning we have a scirocco, and it looks a little as if the
spring rains were about to set in. Mr Marsh and Carrie were driven back
from an intended visit to the Baroness by a fast sprinkle, which a
severe sore throat made it necessary for Mr Marsh to escape from. This
was the only interruption of our book and manuscript work. There has
been an arrival at the Stabilimento today of two families.
The rain has fairly set in, and we have had no temptation to play out
doors today. At the dinner-table we found our little company of five or
six, swelled to sixteen - generally nice-looking people. Our quiet life
here is evidently over, but I regret d the change the less as we are so
soon to leave ourselves. The damp weather has given Mr Marsh so severe a
sore throat that, external remedies having failed, I put him in bed
early this evening, with a Doverâs powder. We are now twenty days
without news from America except a stupid paragraph from the World. It
was a bitter disappointment to get nothing this evening. The Polish
Revolution, if one can judge any thing from the journals, is rather
gaining strength than otherwise. The French and English, particularly
the latter, continue to bluster at Russia and Prussia, but if they can
once accomplish their own selfish ends they will let the Poles get out
of the difficulty as they can. The French Empress, having succeeded in
inducing the Emperor to throw away the noblest opportunity a sovereign
ever had to give the whole world a great onward and upward movement, is
trying to coax him to allow her to go to Rome for the Popeâs blessing,
and to secure the Order of the Rose, with which His Holiness sometimes
honours such of his faithful daughters as wear crowns. It is said that
the Emperor refuses to permit the Prince Imperial to accompany her on
this pilgrimage, and that she will not go without him. She will [illegible] probably get her will in time, as she has
so often done before in more important matters. There is a rumour today
that the Greeks are making one more effort to get a King, that they are
getting up signatures in favour of Prince Carignano. I hope they may be
fortunate enough to get him. Every body speaks well of him, and he looks
and conducts like a man of dignity, good sense and good principle.
Kossuth is out with a new manifesto on the political condition of
Europe, but his dreams have little or no influence over anyone.
Mr M. was not well enough to work to-day and we dawdled away the
morning as the English say. I left him to dine on a plate of soup by
himself and joined the increased company at the table dâhĂŽte. An English
colonel with a Danish wife & motherinlaw interested me very much.
The lady wife herself is most pleasing, the mother very much of a lady,
but the gentleman of has an air of refinement, good taste, and thorough
consideration for others that one rarely finds in any man, and most
rarely in an Englishman. The picture this party gave us of Nice this
season was any thing but attractive. In addition to the deaths from
burning, - caused by this detestable crinoline - of which we had already
heard, they mentioned that of an American lady whose dress caught from
her grate at mid-day while she was looking in a glass opposite. She
rushed out of her room into an adjoining one, set fire to another lady
who was in her night-dress, and before her husband who ran after her
could extinguish the flames she was past saving. The lady in the
night-dress was not seriously injured, but the husband of the victim,
being previously in bad health, died soon after from the shock and the
grief suffered.
Nothing noteworthy today. The bad weather kept us all in-doors, and
Mr Marshâs sore throat and inflamed eyes prevented him from work, and
his lounging kept the rest of us idle, or nearly so. In the evening the
Tebbses, Campazzi and Cocchetti passed an hour or two with us. Cocchetti
explained to Mr Marsh how the great estates of Italy were kept together
without the aid of the law of primo-geniture. The explanation is quite
enough, with the celibacy of the priest-hood, to account for the vast
and deep demoralization that prevails in the social life of this
beautiful country.
We kept Carrie from Church this morning to read Dr Stanley to us
which she did as long as her throat held out. While she was resting the
Israelitsh deputy Levi came in to pay us a visit bringing with him his
friend Filippi, also a friend of our friend Botta. Levi speaks much more
hopefully of the prospects of Italy generally and especially of the
Southern Provinces than do most of the very liberal Italians whom we
meet. He says the aspect of things there is greatly improving, and
though the Italian affairs in general are not going on in the right
direction so fast as could be wished, yet they are making a steady
progress, and that this generation must be content to pass away and
leave the best fruits of their toil to those who shall come after them.
Mr Strettell came down in the evening and we had service and sermon in
the little saloon. Mr Strettell shows the same energy in performing
those duties as a clergyman that he does in his walks and other physical
exertions. With a felon on his finger, which had kept him awake all the
previous night, and a bad sorethroat, having already held two services,
he came down here for a third, and would have walked back to Genoa after
nine oâclock, a distance of seven miles, if we had not entreated him
most pressingly to stay here all night.
We had the pleasure this morning of opening a box of books from
America. Mr Strettell came up from breakfast while we were in the midst
of our pleasant task, and was much interested to see the American
edition of Wedgewood [Wedgwood] who is an
intimate friend of his. Many an old familiar face appeared among the
volumes as we took them out, and some very promising new ones. A pile of
back numbers of the Atlantic furnished us a rich feast and a merry laugh
through some half dozen of the Biglow Papers not seen before. We shall
send them to Mr Strettell who enjoys Lowell as thoroughly as the best
Yankee.
The strong south-wind still continues, but it has swept every cloud
from the heavens, and the day has been most charming. We have never seen
the waves higher, and the effect of the sun on the water, changing
constantly with its altitude, is marvellous. Sometimes it looks like an
immense opal with the power of motion and the gift of utterance. A broad
steel-blue band is its setting, and above it is a baldichino of amethyst
and saphire. I have looked out on this sea till I am almost blinded,
calling out to Mr Marsh from time to time, Oh come and see this huge
wave, green as an emerald, as it comes rolling in - oh, now it is
breaking, - curling into white foam - oh, now it is leaping up the
rocks! - oh see another bound back from the Castle wall, the fine spray
rising like a mist far above what once were its turrets!â With open
windows the roar is too loud to admit of talking to each other with
ease. I am afraid I shall be homesick at Piobesi missing so much this
ever-companionable sea. To me there is nothing in nature so living and
so social as the ocean - next to it I think I love the clouds - and this
compels me to give only a third place to the mountains - the mountains
which my husband prefers to everything else in the natural universe
except the sun and stars of heaven. Carrie came home just in time for
dinner after a long walk with the Baroness and Miss Tebbs. The young
ladies came back loaded with flowers and well-fruited orange-boughs - On
a single small branch were five oranges, in themselves weighing as much
as one person would would [sic] care to take on
a walk for pleasure. They enjoyed the Doria gardens to the full. - We
all united in drinking the health of the Prince and Princess of Wales.
The Halketts showed us a photograph of the two in which the Princess
certainly appears to much the best advantage. - In the evening Mrs Kerr
or KĂ€rr, the mother of Mrs Halkett, brought in the children to us, and
spent some little time. We were glad to find that she knew many of our
friends, among them the De Billes - the Garrigues - Mrs Christern, etc
The latter had for some little time the charge of Mrs Halkett (they call
her, the Baroness,) then Maggie Kerr. Mrs K__ speaks in the highest
terms of the Garrigues. She also knows the Hochschilds well, and told us
what we did not know before, that the Baron himself is a cousin of the
Oxholms of Denmark. Speaking of the Princess Alexandra, (of whom she Mrs
K_ says her daughter was an older playmate - ) and praising the careful
manner in which she had been brought up, our new Danish friend told us
that âshe had never seen a newspaper in her lifeâ! Alas, for princes and
princesses! Until I came to Italy this tine [time] I had no conception of the infinite pains taken
to prevent all royal children and youth from knowing anything of life as
it really is. Treated like lap-dogs and fed on sugar only, how can one
expect them to have any more intellect than these little canine
specimens! Gianina Milli, the Sicilian, is having a splendid success at
Turin as an improvisatrice. I have regretted none of their balls or
theatricals this winter, public or private, but this is an entertainment
which we miss with real pain. The mention of this Sicilian lady reminds
me of a matinade given us this morning by three of four wild-looking
Calabrese, with their steeple-crown-hats, and hair black as night. One
had a bag-pipe from which he drew forth the well-known hurdy-gurdy
squeaks, while the other three danced gaily, and did more than justice
to the music. Around the hat of one of the dancers was a string of bells
which had much the effect of the castanets, and when I opened the window
they all uncovered their heads, and made a bow with a grace that would
have done honour to any rank. Their whole dress was very picturesque,
especially the sandals, and the white leggings which were made gay by
the straps of the former which were crossed and recrossed of from the
ankle to the knee - As they turned to go they touched their hats to me
again, I suppose in token of acknowledgement for the little coin they
had recieved.
After the finest day possible yesterday a strong south-wind rose
about midnight bringing with it abundance of rain, Before twelve this
morning the wind came round to the North, and to our dismay all the
upper ranges of the mountains near us were soon white with snow. It made
us tremble to think that Piedmont would probably be again buried in
snow, and so the chance of our getting comfortably settled in our new
kingdom the Castle, by the first of April greatly dimin ished. Col. and
Mrs Halkett came in to our room for a half hour and we do not find them
less agreeable as our acquaintance advances. Good Mr & Mrs Tebbs
spent the evening with us. We shall miss them much and regretfully after
we have left Pegli - which seems near at hand now - the packing having
already commenced. Poor Signor Campazzi has been ill the whole week and
was not able to give us a lesson tonight. We all feel very sorry for
him. His father was so displeased with him when he turned Protestant
that he disinherited him. The old man however repented of this severity
on his death-bed, when it was too late to mend the matter, the property
having passed into other hands, and implored his sonâs forgiveness for
the wrong he had done him. Now the ex-priest finds himself alone and
penniless, but I do not think he regrets having followed the dictates of
his conscience.
Mr A Mr Marsh left at 1 P.M. for Turin, - better but not as well as
usual. I am afraid he will be made worse by the cold weather he is
likely to meet in Piedmont. Here the day is as Wednesday 11th - fine as
possible. The sea is still noisy enough, but last night its roar was
almost terrible even to me who love its grand and solemn voice so
passionately. Carrie and I filled up the day after Mr Marsh left with
letter-writing and with Manzoni. At dinner Col. Halkett quoted, with a
mixture of mingled censure and contempt, the recent letter of the Bishop
of Oxford in which âhe tries to do away the scruples of some of the very
weak clerical brethren about rejoicing at the wedding of the Prince and
Princess of Wales, because it is celebrated in Lent. The good Bishop
tells his feeble-minded children that he feels badly about it himself,
but that he is quite sure the Arch-bishop had the power to release the
clergy from their obligations to keep Lent, and he was almost equally
sure that in a late letter of the Archbishop had by implication claimed
that power and exercised it. In fact he thought a fair construction of
this letter justified the clergy in making merry on this occasion!â As I
have not seen the letter I am not responsible for the quotation, but
even good Mr Tebbs, who wears the largest mantle of charity I have ever
seen, did not attempt to stretch it over this epistle, even though
written by a Bishop. He uttered a semi groan and changed the
subject.
We woke this morning, and instead of the bright sky of yesterday,
found the rain falling in torrents, and the temperature not very warm at
that. Carrie declares that the March of this year has chills and fever -
not an unnatural suggestion for an Indiana girl. At dinner the chief
topic of conversation was the Royal wedding in which a double interest
is felt by the Halketts from their Danish as well as English blood. Mrs
Tebbs thought is was such a nice idea that a map of Denmark should have
been printed in the Illustrated News. I looked at the English-Danish
party and they smiled. We understood each otherâs meaning, but our more
guileless friends did not - but persisted in saying âDonât you think
so?â âI confess,â said Col. Halkett, âit strikes me as rather a doubtful
compliment.â âOh,â I said, âEngland has no doubt heard of Denmark
before, but she probably needed a map of the country - and indeed other
nations sometimes fancy that a little more knowledge of geography would
be an accomplishment not unworthy of one so widely known herself.â
Before I had finished my sentence I was dismayed to find how much I was
feeling, and was thankful that the good natured laughter of my auditors
helped me to an excuse for the flushed cheek & tremulous voice with
which I concluded it. After we came up stairs Carrie told me an anecdote
of the day which had I heard before I should not have ventured my remark
at the table, though I should have thought it all the harder. Miss Tebbs
enquired of Carrie, who was saying something to her about New England,
âin what part of America New England was and why it was called so.â
Before she could answer a young Italian present volunteered to give the
information which he did very correctly. - I am afraid I have forfeited
something of the good opinion of Saint Tebbs by my sharpness at dinner.
He bore the joke about England heroically, but when I said - on being
told that some boys in Genoa had thrown a stone at the Baroness Gautiers
laming her considerably - that âa boy was the only animal that I would
not admit was as my fellow-creatureâ he looked absolutely shocked, and
both he and Mrs Tebbs began to defend that genus with a zeal worthy a
better cause. The good man admitted that they were naturally rather
cruel, âbutâ, he said, âif you could only see how I have touched their
hearts in the Sunday school telling them how wicked it was to rob birdsâ
nests and tease animals and âŠ..â âYes, yes,â I interrupted, âand if you
could only see how as soon as they were out of your sight they chased
the next cow they met to tie a tin kettle to its tailâŠ.â Here the old
gentleman sighed so profoundly that I thought it would show a nature as
cruel as that of the boy himself if I were to proceed, so I broke off
abruptly, and added consolingly - âbut I must admit there are good
boys.â With this peace offering we separated, but I am sure my
reputation for charity has suffered.
Mr Marsh came back from Turin at half past three, reporting, as I
expected, a snow-storm the day before, on that side the Apennines. It
was not very cold however, and he thinks we must manage to get to Turin
Saturday the 21st. The Baroness spent the evening with us. One little
anecdote she told of herself showed that Italian women are much the
other women, or rather Italian wives like other wives. She described a
visit she made two days ago in Genoa where she was obliged to mount to
the very top of the palace - four long flights of stairs, âIt was very
hard for me to get upâ, she said, âbut I almost forgot my own weakness
in thinking how dreadfully my husband would suffer going down - he has
an affection of the leg that makes it very painful for him to descend a
stair-case. - At last when the visit was over, I contrived to save his
amour-propre and his poor foot at the same time, by telling my friends
who were with me that they must remember I was an invalid, and I begged
they would go very very slowly.â She added that she really didnât mind
going down stairs in the least, but that gentlemen were so sensitive
about any physical disability. She surprised me also by telling me that
the Marchese RorĂ , whom I admired so much last winter, and who is a
particular friend of hers, is a sister of the famous Princess Belgiuoso
[Belgiojoso] whom we knew so well in
Constantinople.
Poor Mr Tebbs has been suffering so much all night that unless he
very much improves today we shall give up our plan of going to Genoa
tomorrow. Notwithstanding his illness we received from him and dear Mrs
Tebbs, each of us a charming little present this morning - Carrie a box
of the finest water-colours, I a beautiful little volume of selections
by Dr Vaughn - Rays etc. - and last and best of all, an exquisite copy
of Bunyanâs Pilgrimâs Progress for Mr Marsh.
It began raining this morning just at breakfast-time and continued
till the messenger came from Genoa to inquire if we wished for rooms
there. We had scarcely sent him off with a negative when the sun came
out. Also a message from Mr Tebbs that he was much better, helped us to
regret our decision, but it was too late to reconsider.
Mr Marsh woke with a swelled face this morning and a certain colour
about the nose which reminded me of his former attacks of erysipelas.
This, with the necessity of being in bed myself, quite reconciles us to
the decision of yesterday. Carrie read Tasso to me most of the day and
then took a long walk with the Baroness and some other friends. Husband
tried to work a little, but was restless and feverish all day.
This morning I managed to get on to the sofa in the drawing-room, and
was just contemplating Mr. Marshâs swelled nose by a strong sunlight
when Mrs Valerio came in - She joined in the laugh which I was enjoying
more, no doubt, than the unhappy patient. There seems no chance of his
getting to Genoa before Saturday, when we shall probably all go
together. Mrs Valerio was more sane than usual and altogether more
agreeable. Just as she was leaving the Baron and Baroness Gautiers came
in. The sight of them recalled a conversation between them reported by
Carrie yesterday. At the Villa Sada which they went to visit while
walking they were shown a fine large dog given them, as Signora Sada
said, by Mrs Valerio. The curiosity of the Baroness was excited by
noticing that Mrs Sada and Carrie talked of Mrs V__ . as a mutual
acquaintance. Accordingly when they left the villa the Baroness asked C_
who Mrs Valerio was, and learned from her that she was an American of
excellent connections who had married a Piedmontese. Upon this she
turned to her husband who was a little distance behind her and asked
about the family of the Valerios. The Baron, not having heard what had
already passed, replied âOh, Ăš una famiglia da niente. Uno Ăš un medico,
- e- chĂš so io?â The lady by way of softening the matter to Carrie,
said: âBut one of them is prefetto of Como.â âSi, si, ma tutti ne
ridevano - un Valerio prefetto!â I trust Mrs Valerio may never hear of
these or any similar remarks. It would be very hard for her, with her
just family pride which she carries to no absurd extent, to feel that
she was surrounded by persons who looked down upon her persons husbandâs
family. The truth is, that if the Piedmontese nobility had never heard
of Lorenzo Valerio before he was made Prefet of Como it was owing to the
narrowness of their own knowledge of the active and influentual minds of
Italy, and not to the insignificance of the man. He was well and most
honourably known in Tuscany as a leading man for many years, and is
still ranked very high. But his being Prefetto and Senatore del Regna
can not, in the eyes of a Piedmontese noble, atone for his being born
untitled. When one talks with the Gautiers, sees how patriotic they are,
how cultivated in some directions, it seems impossible to reconcile the
contradictions one finds in them; During their visit today, they spoke
with great severity and equal pain of a near relative of theirs, a
Countess Maffei who was singing at Covent Garden this winter. It seems
she left her family some eight years ago (in spite of the remonstrances
of her father, who is a man of the highest rank, and of her husband)
determined, as she said, to acquire an immense fortune for her children
- She had the most unbounded confidence in her talents (which the
Gautiers say are scarcely above mediocrity) and though she has had no
real success, she continues to go from country to country, and continent
to continent firm in the faith that she shall succeed at last in
astonishing the world. In the meantime her daughter has become old
enough to feel the mortification, and has retired to a convent. Her son,
a boy of some eighteen, also feels acutely the discredit thus thrown
upon the family.
Mr Marshâs face having changed from scarlet to violet, and even this
last colour being evidently in a fading condition, we set about packing
up today, and were very busy till dinner. In the evening all the inmates
of the Stabilimento came to make us a goodbye visit. We part with the
Tebbses with real regret - more than regret. They have contributed much
to make the winter pass pleasantly, and I hope profitably too. An
example so pure and high as theirs ought not to be without effect on any
who come within its reach. We have seen just enough of the Halketts to
make us very sorry that they did not join our party early in the winter.
Mr Cocchetti has not failed to do his share in contributing to our
pleasure. We are glad to leave him in better health and with a promise
that he will come and see us. Poor Signor Campazzi seems much depressed.
Mr Marsh got an opportunity to tell him he should be glad to serve him
in any way that he could, and this gave Campazzi an occasion to say that
he was willing to do anything that would furnish him with the means of
living - that he would not refuse the most material employment. I was
truly thankful that we had devined his circumstances and added one
quarter to his usual price for lessons. It is painful to be able to do
nothing for so estimable a man who has sacrificed so much for
conscienceâs sake.
We left Pegli at nine - the rain which threatened us this morning
having given place to sunshine. The mountains to the west and north were
glorious in the morning glow - the upper portions being entirely covered
with new-fallen snow. The temperature was delightful as we drove through
the village, and it was summer until we reached the bed of the torrent
at San Pier DâArena. Here the cold northwind struck us, and I shivered
till I was sitting by a fire in Genoa an hour after. We encamped at the
Quatre Nations, an imprudence we shall never commit again. I do not know
what Quatre Nations are in the habit of refreshing themselves here, but
the Hotentots are certainly the only people likely to be comfortable in
this establishment. In fact the Hotels generally are vile in Genoa. Mr
Marsh apologizes for them on the ground that they are old palaces
nastified for centuries before they came into the hands of the
aubergistes. Even fire would not purify them unless the conflagration
were fierce enough to consume the very earth beneath their foundations
to a considerable depth. Mr & Mrs Valerio and the Wheelers spent the
evening with us. Mrs V_ gave us some choice acting. I have never before
seen her so brilliant. For a time she personated Mrs Henry Field of New
York, then a young Englishman who took the liberty to talk to her a few
evenings since at the theatre. This last was infinitely amusing - but
her tones and gestures are indispensible to give effect to the language
of the simple soul whom she was taking off.
While Mr Marsh and C. were at church Mrs Valerio was to have read to
me but we talked instead. In the evening Mr Wheeler gave me some further
developments with regard to Master Henry Green. This accomplished
youngster did Mr Wheeler as successfully as he had done us. Sir James
Hudson was equally imposed upon, also the Dutch Consul, and several
other foreign officials. All bear testimony that he is a boy of genius
whatever else may be said of him.
Before Mr Marsh and Carrie could set out on a picture-hunting tour
the Commodore came in with three of his officers, then came Olivieri of
the city Library, and so followed a succession of interruptions until
nothing was left of the morning except an hour for the Pallavicini
gallery, which at best is not worth much time. The Commodore and Mr
Wheeler are quite ready for a war with England. They declare that we can
better get on with Alabamas when we are in a relation to strike back,
than when we are nominally at peace. The Commodore is of course nervous
at the report that a batch of these iron-clad pirates is destined for
the Mediterrenean. He knows that his beautiful, but unplated,
Constellation could not stand a moment before the scaly monsters. We had
what they called a dinner a little before four, and at five were in t a
railroad wagon faced for Turin with Deputato Levi and a collegue of his.
At Turin - 9.15 P.M. - we found Mr Artoni and Gaetano waiting for us at
the station, and in fifteen minutes we were comfortably housed in the
Grande Bretagne. Mr Artoni seemed so glad to see us that it was really a
pleasure, and even the servants of the Hotel made us quite happy by
their smiles. One [illegible] scrap of news Mr
Artoni gave us made me quite sad. Poor General Cattabene, (who had
persisted, contrary to Mr Marshâs advice, in arming his two thousand men
for the United Statesâ service before he received an answer to the
proposal) was so distressed on receiving intelligence that his offer
would not be accepted that his reason has completely given way, and he
has been sent to a hospital.
Mrs Tottenham & the girls came to welcome us this morning - Miss
Rosazza & her governess later. Mrs T. gave me some town-items, such
as that Mrs Sartiges was popular, Mrs Solvyns not so, etc. Mrs Stanley
is a most zealous deaconess, if not apostle, in the Polish cause. In
proportion as she manifests more & more her liberal proclivities,
she sinks in the social scale here, and she is now very coldly received
by persons who last year considered it an honour to have a visit from
her. Spaventa told Mr T. that the Police had a watchful eye upon her as
she was believed to be a âred hot Republicanâ. Poor Mrs Stanley is as
innocent of Republicanism as she is of Buddhism, and knows as much about
the one as the other. It is pitiable to see a Government like this
occupied in watching a shatterbrained woman whose heart is as far from
conspiracy as her head is incapa ble of it. Every hour of my life here
makes me more and more a lover of the institutuons (excepting always the
divine one) of my own country as it was when I left it. - Young Payne
spent the evening with us. He would be glad to remain here if he could
really be useful as his family strongly oppose him going home. He seems
to feel that duty & honor both direct him to return and join the
army and he will probably do so, though he still tooks looks rather
slender for such work. For social reasons I should like much to have him
stay here, but this is no time to waste material in luxuries.
Mr M. & Carrie set out early for Piobesi and left me to myself
for the day. Mons. Dupra, the editor, of called for a letter sent him
through us by Gen. Cluseret. I was truly glad to see this distinguished
French exile and, though he has unfortunately so indistinct an
enunciation as to make it extremely difficult to understand all he says,
he made a most favorable impression on me. He is one of those grave
Frenchmen who are the gravest of all the grave, as a gay Frenchman is
certainly the gaiest of the gay. We talked of Italy, of the U. States,
of Poland, of every thing, in short, and I was not a little sorry when
he took his leave. He agreed with me as to Mme Gasparinâs genius but
spoke regretfully of her being âun peu mystiqueâ. Mr Payne dined with us
and Sigr. Filli Filippi & Botta took tea & passed the evening.
The first told us many sad in cidents of the war new to us - some
touching circumstances about the fate of young Putnam & Lowell etc -
alas, alas. Mr Botta is more hopeful about Italy than I could have
expected to find him. Since Massimo dâAzeglioâs last letter, which shows
that even he has relapsed, I begin to lose heart. Among the many strange
phenomena of the human mind this has often struck me - a man may change
his early political, philosophical an or scientific opinions upon strong
evidence that he had been mistaught, or otherwise led into false
theories, and there is little probability of his ever returning to the
youthful delusion - but the man who has seemed to shake off completely
the gross religious superstitions instilled into his childhood, who has
examined them by the light of the clearest reason, who has himself
launched at them the sharpest arrows of his wit, is more than likely to
return & and [sic] surrender himself up to
them in declining age.
C. and I went to church this morning, Mr Marsh not being able to go
with us as he was obliged to be with the new Minister of Foreign
Affairs. - Mr Tottenham gave us a very fair sermon, and I was glad to
find myself in church once more. When the services were over I had a
warm greeting from the Baroness Hochschild and Mrs Stanley. Rustem Bey
came in soon after my return to our rooms, and from him we gathered
something more of the whereabouts and how-abouts of our collegues. He
looks in miserable health and is going into the country soon.
Mr. Pulzsky ga made us a long visit, and gave a lively sketch of his
prison life last year in Naples. His knowledge on all subjects is very
remarkable certainly, and he is awal always interesting, though I should
fancy him far less disinterested than his whole- and high-souled wife.
He has lately returned from a visit to the man of Caprera and does not
give a very encouraging account of his physical condition. He thinks he
will get a partial use of his foot in time but only in a long time. In
temper he says the hero is sad, but at the same time serene and gentle
as one might expect from a disappointed guardian angel. Madame Pulzsky
is to set out to-morrow with her little daughter for the rocky island,
immortal now as Scio, - to-morrow the child having been promised to be
allowed to pay a visit to Garibaldi as her birthday treat. Mrs Stanley
came as Mr Pulszky left - full of enthusiasm for Poland and liberalism
in general. She is burning with indignation at the codini of Turin -
says that La Peruzzi La Pasolini and La RorĂ (with one other lady of
rank whose name I forget) were the only women of the society who really
did anything in behalf of the Poles at the late Concert given for their
benefit. I suggested that the official position of many of the Turinese
would make it impossible for them to aid the Poles without giving great
offence to Russia and, in some degree, compromising the government, but
Mrs Stanley is too disinterested herself to allow any consideration to
weigh where her sense of the justice of a cause is so strong. She spoke,
as every one else has done, with great admiration of Madame Manciniâs
poem written for this occasion. Mrs S. was able to furnish us some
details of the horrible burnings at Nice this winter. As to the American
lady she only knew her name, and that she was from the Northern part of
the United States, but she was present at the dreadful scene, even
before the poor sufferer was laid upon her bed - she went at the request
to her husband who had fainted, and in fact was with Mrs Davis much of
the time till her death, six days after the frightful accident. She
speaks with the warmest admiration of the unfortunate ladyâs conduct at
the time, and through the whole period of her suffering. Her burns do
not appear to have been deep, & her death was caused by the nervous
inflamation that followed. Mrs Stanleyâs account of the distress of the
husband, who was in very feeble health, and of all the intolerable
annoyances with regard to the burial which arise in Southern Europe on
such occasions, shocked and pained me more than I can express. I hope
some one who was present and knows all the facts of the case will give
them in detail to the world that it may be known how far Southern Europe
is civilized in the last half of the nineteenth century. - Levi came in
while Mrs Stanley was still with us, quite full of a project for Italian
mediation between our North and South. Mr Marsh told him the thing was
out of the question, that the South would not listen to it on any other
terms than independence to which the North never could and never ought
to consent. We questioned Mrs S__. as to Garibaldi with whom she spent
nine days at Pisa. She says he was perfectly calm and gentle as a child,
said nothing bitter of any one, and spoke gratefully of all who had
shown him kindness. On one occasion only did he utter a word which
looked like a complaint. She showed him a photograph of the ball taken,
then recently, from his foot. He sighed as he looked at it and said âOh,
what will not men do to get a little money!â - then added - âbut it is a
pity that ball did not accomplish the end to which it was destined.â Mrs
Stanley said warmly - âBut General, the world knows it could not spare
you. - Victor Emmanuel himselfâ - - - âOn ne veut plus de moi,â he
interrupted, still calm, but with most impressive and touching
expression. When she was about to part from him she said. âGeneral, I am
going directly to Nice, Can I do anything for you there?â âYes,â he
answered âvisit the graves of my family for me, and tell me how you find
them.â She fulfilled the mission, and made a little bouquet of the
wild-flowers and grasses which were growing there, broke some sprays
from the wreaths of immortelle that lay over his mother, and sent them
with her report to the great soldier who had already retired to his
lonely Caprera. There he has lately been visited by some very
distinguished persons, among them the Duke and Duchess of Southerland.
Speaking of these last two, Mrs Stanley exclaimed triumphantly: âWont
old Palmerston be furious, wont he!â Our female champion for liberty had
received two letters from the camp of Langiewizch [Langiewicz], written just at the commencement of the
action which ended in his retreat into Austria. Gen. Dunn writes: âI
hear the guns already. I am afraid the battle has begun in earnest - if
so we shall surely not win. The troops are half disciplined, half armed,
and we have no Garibaldi here.â After our visitors left us Mr Marsh told
something of his interview with Visconti. Speaking of American affairs
the minister said that the feeling in Italy was so unanimous in favour
of the North, so hearty was the desire, so earnest the hopes, that the
arms of the government should be victorious, that it could not be said
there was even a party that entertained different sentiments. All
questions of interest were sunk in the conviction that the great cause
of human liberty was the cause at stake in this struggle, and the final
triumph of Northern arms and the reconstruction of the great Nation
towards which the oppressed of Europe had been looking so long and so
hopefully, were the consumation consummation to which every Italian
heart aspired. By the way, Rustem Bey says that Madame Solmes Rattazzi
has made very little social progress here - very few persons having sent
cards in answer to the wedding announcement. He was one of the
exceptions, having, as he said, received many former courtesies from the
lady and accepted her hospitalities not long before her marriage, and
being an unmarried man he had thought best to continue the
acquaintance.
Dr Valerio, who had the care of the Count de Solmes during his
illness, says that the poor man told him frankly that he had no wish to
recover. Dr. V_. insisted on calling in another physician because he was
unwilling to take the responsibility of a [illegible] husbandâs life while his wife was
unreserved in her devotion to another man during the very hours when the
former ways lying in a half-dying condition. Terrible things are
whispered - too terrible to be believed even of Madame de Solmes.
We were dismayed this morning to find it raining Fortunately it did
not last long - cart came - the remaining boxes were stowed away and by
half past three P.M. all our sieben sachen were on their way to Piubez,
as the natives call it. We then sat down to an early dinner, after which
we payed a shamefull bill for our weeks entertainment at the Grande
Bretagne. We did it with a good grace however, having learned that
resistance to such impositions only adds fuel to oneâs own indignation
without ever winning the slightest redress, and accordingly we bade the
robbers a bland good morning, and answered their buon viaggio with a
Tuesday afternoon.
Alex. brought back so dismal a report last night as to the prospect
at PiĂłbesi - that nothing was to be found there - not even good meal for
polenta, - that it was three quartes of an hourâs walk to the station
and good walking at that - that there was trouble about the stable,
difficulty in finding any one to care for horses - and ten thousand
other difficulties - so that in short we heartily wished everything back
again in Turin. Mr Marsh at once set about fresh enquiries for a house
in town, went to look at an unfurnished apartment, found it wouldnât do,
and came home quite out of spirits. Alex. soon came in with a half
pleased, half astonished expression, and said: âMaâam what do you think!
Giacchino has goot the coorage to go herself to the Countess Ghirardi
and ask her if she wish to rent the Casa dâAngennes for two years!â I
sent for Giacchino who said she was ready to go and say to the Countess
that Mr Marsh would like the Casa dâAngennes for two years provided she
could give him several more rooms than before, and the terms were not
unreasonable. I gave her my blessing and sent her. The Countess received
her most graciously, expressed her regret we had ever left the house,
complained bitterly of Madame de Solmes, of the faithlessness of her
agents etc. and said it was entirely owing to this last circumstance
that she had failed in her engagements to us. She said she was doing a
great deal to the house, - that she thought when all was finished it
would suit us, & if so, and we could manage to get some rooms of
Stella (who she could do nothing with) in the story above, she thought
everything would be arranged satisfactorily. I shall be too happy if
this can be brought about.
smiling Grazie. Soon after six we reached the Castle and the first
step under the Cloisters showed us that our new Susanne was a broom that
swept clean. As we passed within the door we were not met, as on our
first visit, by a current of damp, vault-like air, but by a feeling of
warmth, and the bright face of Susanne who in reply to our vie gehtâs
answered âGanz gut! ganz gut!â so heartily and so cheerily that it was
quite like a welcome. Im the principal salotto a bright fire was
blazing, and I should have scarcely recognized it as the room I had seen
two days before. The fire-light touched beautifully the picture frames,
but happily was not strong enough to show the pictures themselves. In
fact everything gained by the semi-obscurity, and the sound of coming
china followed by the odour of the blessed herb, and then the sight of
the well-ordered tea-tray put us at once in the best of humours. We went
to bed early and slept well.
A most comfortable-looking breakfast was waiting for me when I came
out of my room this morning. Mr Marsh had already done a hard morningâs
work among his books, having turned round three heavy cases simply to
please my eye. I was sorry I had criticized his first arrangement and so
given him all this trouble. The remainder of the morning was spent in
the confusion indispensible to a moving. It will be a long time before
we are really straightened out, but that once accomplished I fancy we
shall not find ourselves so badly off here. The old tower looks very
grand and stately, but it does not take long to see that itâs not of
Roman workmanship. It is very old certainly but as certainly, not Roman.
The room we have selected for a library opens directly upon a broad
terrace by the very side of the tower and from this terrace we shall
have the finest opportunity of watching the habits of the swallows which
are nesting by thousands in the old walls. The mountains were not very
clear this morning. We were all very tired by dinner-time, and sat down
with a sharp appetite to the ample provisions which Alex. had made for
us notwithstanding the thousand other things he has had to attend to
today. A glowing fire on the hearth, and the prettiest of lamps on the
table completed the work of restoration, and we all congratulated
ourselves that our lives, after all, had fallen in pleasant places.
Carrie found a marvellous set of cards in a little drawer which proved,
as the explanation of the game states, to represent the means by which
Joseph explained Pharaohâs dream, and by which Moses wrought all his
miracles in the presence of the later Pharoahs. âCosĂš,â in the naĂŻve
words of the publisher âresta avverato che i tarocchi pigliarono origine
in Egitto.â We laughed heartily over this discovery, then drank our tea,
pitying the Turinese who were pitying us. By and bye, however. Mr Marsh
and Carrie, both of whom had worked rather hard, began to look a little
heavy, and in spite of all my efforts to be entertaining first one, then
the other dropped off into a doze though they both declared they were
not in the least sleepy. I was half inclined to steal off quietly to my
chamber, giving as I passed, strict orders to the servants not to
disturb their sleepy wakefulness till morning. Giacchino however came in
with a tap that roused them - I apologized for their disturbance - they
repeated their assurances that they were wide awake - and I went to
bed.
Husband left in the 8.50 train for Turin. The morning is lovely, the
birds noisy if not musical, and everything is almost as still as round
the Castle of the Sleeping Beauty. Carrie and I have very unromantic
work to do, or we should put ourselves in the sun on the terrace to
watch the rondinelle, the just-blossoming peach-trees and the great buds
of a magnolia, very common in and around Turin but which I have never
seen before. It is a most beautiful shrub, but not hardy enough I
suppose to live in any part of New England. Our dreadful frosts deprive
us of many of Natureâs best gifts; but we have our compensations of
which I know the worth better every day. Husband returned at one, Carrie
and I threw up our work, and lent such a hand as we could to aid in
regulating the library a little.
We make very slow progress in getting settled. As usual one thing has
to wait for another, one person for another, and if by the end of the
month we are really in order I shall be thankful. Mr Artoni came out at
half past six, and we had a pleasant evening by a bright blazing fire.
He is a dear good soul, as sincere as the light. I am sorry for his
lonely situation, and wish he had somebody to love and care for him as
he deserves.
After breakfast it was proposed to make a general ascension of the
tower, our eyes having been astonished this morning by seeing it crowned
by a large and handsome American Flag. All enquiries are vain as to how
it came there. It was evidently got up by our servants as a pleasant
surprise, but how they managed it we cannot think. I was pleased to find
the tower very respectable in the inside, the stair-case good with a
safe railing, and at every landing place was a space that might almost
serve for a chamber. The wall is at least six feet in thickness, and in
every window there is room enough for two or three chairs. My strength
would not hold out to reach the top. (Mr Marsh estimates the height of
the tower at 80 feet, but we intend to measure it) and I was obliged to
content myself with a seat in a window at little more than half way up.
As soon as the rest had left me to myself, the birds, (they are
stornelli - starlings - and not rondinelle) came almost into my very
face, and did not seem in the least afraid. The whole landscape before
me was so sweet and quiet, the Alps so majestically grand, the sky so
clear and blue, that I gave myself up at once to the mighty influence
that nature is sometimes able to exert upon us in a way that we cannot
resist if we would - and would not certainly if we could. I left the
place with a sigh at the certainty that I should so seldom be able to
enjoy the prospect it afforded. At one Gaetano brought papers and
letters from America, the latter confirming the news we had before
received as probable, that Aleck was in the hands of the enemy. Poor
fellow! May God preserve him for the sake of his parents and all of us.
How I pity his father and mother - even more than himself. But we ought
to be thankful that he but lost his liberty in a fight where so many
lost their lives. I am afraid we shall hear of Milton in the Army next -
but we must be patient, if it is Godâs will. We talked Italian all day
with Mr Artoni - and exercise worth many lessons. Alex. gave us a
festa-dinner, and in the evening Mr Artoni talked over his New England
life which he remembers with the most grateful and affectionate
interest. I went to bed regretting that we had not had our carriage to
take us into church this morning, which I should have liked so very
much. Saturday evening as Mr Artoni was walking from the Station he fell
in with the schoolmaster, and the leading priest of the village. He made
their acquaintance, and learned from them that in a town about three
miles from PiĂłbesi a Mystery play was to be represented in honour of
Easter Sunday. No doubt this is a remnant of the Mysteries of the Middle
Ages, and we were very sorry that we could not see it. By the way, I
should not forget to note that we received a visit today from detto il
Poeta! I was in my dressing-room with Carrie and our maid when the door
suddenly opened and a little, round, red-faced old man, with the
jolliest looking fellow imaginable, exclaimed âOh, scusi, Signore
scusi!â Giacchino rushed at him indignantly, and showed him how to find
his way out which he had mistaken. As they went through the passage he
informed her that he had been in the salone to pay his homage to His
Excellency, which was âegualmente il suo dovere, e il suo diritto.â When
I returned to the drawing-room I found Mr Marsh and Mr Artoni immensely
diverted by the visit. The poet had introduced himself under the title I
have given him above, paid his compliments, and declared himself ready
to serve His Excellency, when his art might be of use. He said he had
written composed many tragedies which he was too poor to publish, but
which he still had in his head, that he had also written several sonnets
in honour of Bacchus, one of which he forthwith proceeded to declaim.
That he was under the immediate inspiration of the God himself there
could be no doubt. Altogether it must have been a most funny scene, and
I was sorry enough to have missed it. The only other event of the day
was a present of some of the sweetest hyacinths, carnations, and
violets, brought by the gardener of Baron Gautiers in obedience to the
order of his master.
After writing letters and other morning occupations I ventured into
the garden with Carrie, and was surprised to find the turfed banks
almost completely covered with sweet violets. The fruit-trees are now
nearly in full bloom, and several magnolias are loaded with large
tulip-like flowers - very beautiful but without a single green leaf. The
air was delightfully soft and we sat down like two children on the
grassy banks and gathered the violets most vigorously. What a blessing
it is that these simple pleasures continue to be pleasures as long as
life lasts. They may waken - indeed the must waken - in the memories of
those who have travelled far on this earthly track, a thousand sad, even
painful associations, but the emotions of sorrow are still mixed with a
quiet joy which enters the soul one cannot say how, through these gentle
inspirations of Nature. Mr Marsh joined us before we left the garden and
we returned to the house together. My maid wove some of the violets and
ivy-leaves into my hair, dressed me in violet, Carrie came out with a
lovely knot of the sweet blossoms and green leaves on her bosom, then
arranged a beautiful basket of the same mingled with white and purple
hyacinth &c, and we sat down to dinner looking âsmartâ enough to
have entertained His Majesty if he had chanced to visit us on his way to
Stupinigi. In the evening we were glad of a fire again, not because it
is now cold, but there is a dampness about the house which we feel as
soon as the sun is down. This evening we began to read Andrewâs Life of
our Lord, lately published by Scribner. It promises well. A volume of
Babinet came in by way of change.
We all breakfasted together a little before eight in time for Mr
Marsh to go to Turin by the early train. Not long after Alexan came in
saying: âNow the priest he come directly to bless the house - you not
want it blessed?â No, I said, we dont care to have it blessed, but you
may give him his fee all the same, and let him bless the gardenerâs
premises if he wishes it, and any other part that the servants may
desire to have blessed. The messenger departed with a smile - I fancy he
cares as little about the blessing as we do, Catholic though he
professes to be. Leaving Carrie to her lessons I thought I would venture
a walk as far as the bank of violets. When there I was about to sit down
on my cushion with the prospect of an ample harvest of the blossoms that
were literally filling the air with their sweetness, when I observed,
probably just in time to save myself from harm, that the bees were
before me, and that there was not a patch as large as my hand that not
already in possession of the enemy. I walked round and round, snatching
here and there a violet from the edge of the bank, but at every prize I
was distinctly warned off the premises. At last they began to buzz about
my ears so thick and close that I was forced to retreat altogether, and
content myself with a few gleanings along the edges of the box-borders,
but the greedy little creatures would not suffer even this. They
followed me pertinaciously - their numbers increasing, and their
hostility becoming more and more threatening until I finally turned
toward the house with a much quicker step than I had left it, and the
vicious little wretches followed me on to the very terrace, and I felt
myself in safety only when fairly in the library. Carrie laughed
heartily at my flushed face, but I tried in vain to coax her to go and
make a similar experiment. Mr Marsh came home at half past six bringing
no American news, but a large package of the English Daily News, sent by
Mr Solvyns for my consolation. Mrs S__. has certainly been successful in
making a good American of her husband. He is thoroughly with us, and it
is an honour to any cause to have such a man among its defenders. Mrs
Sartiges has not been so successful with her Lord, as much perhaps from
the inferiority of the material she had to work over, as from inferior
capability on her own part. Talking over the difficulty, or rather the
contradiction between Mr Seward and M. Mercier, Mrs Sartiges said to Mrs
Solvyns: âOf course you believe that M. Mercier told the truth?â âNo I
dont - I dont believe a word of what he says.â was the reply of Mrs
Solvyns. It seems that Mr Sartiges has got himself into a mess with the
king. He lately asked for a private interview with him, and in the
course of it said: âI suppose your Majesty is now prepared to admit the
necessity of leaving to the Pope the territory he claims as his
patrimony, and is ready to renounce all further claim to it.â âCertainly
I am notâ replied the king. âTo renounce my claim to the papal states
would be to disown all my past life, to renounce the title voluntarily
bestowed upon me by the Italian Nation, whose unity I have sworn to
accomplish and defend.â âButâ replied the French Minister Ambassador,
âyour Majesty has now a new Ministry, and can throw the responsibility
of the change of policy upon that Ministry.â Upon this the King grew hot
âFor whom do you take me! I should be unworthy the name of a man, not to
say King, if I could do the base thing you propose!â Everybody is
delighted at this new proof that Victor Emmanuel is still the Re
Galanluomo [Galantuomo], and that he has the
spirit to face even an Ambassador of the Emperor of France. Sartiges is
fast earning for himself here the epithet he so justly acquired in
America - a poor creature. The Capo Stazione at Candiolo entertained Mr
Marsh, while he was waiting for the train in the morning, with a sketch
of the country about PiĂłbesi, and its inhabitants - not at all
calculated to make one ambitious of a long residence here. He declares
that the whole region is well nigh pestilential - Rossore, being almost
universal in the Spring and fevers throughout the Summer and Autumn. The
four thousand inhabitants, as he states the number, he declares to be
all miserably poor (which I can easily believe), and as thievish,
vicious, and ungrateful, as they are poor, which for the present we
shall try not to believe. Mr Marsh has no doubt there is great
exageration in this picture, but he believes in it enough to make him
want to get back to Turin as soon as a convenient house can be found
While Mr Marsh was with the Solvyns the good old Chanoine Carrel called
at the Legation. Mr Marsh set out, immediately upon his return, in
search of him, but found he had not returned to his rooms. He was very
sorry to miss him, but hopes he may still be in Turin when he next goes
to town. [Images]
Mr Marsh was able to set himself about his book again today, but
Carrie and I had to give the whole morning to looking over and arranging
bills, papers etc. After our work was over she ventured alone to
encounter the bees, and came in with her hands full of violets, though
she confessed to having met with a sharp resistance.
Carrie went in to Turin for her French and riding lessons this
morning. Alex. managed to muster an odd-looking old vehicle that might
have passed for the Deaconâs âone hoss shayâ in the last days of its
being. Giacchino volunteered to drive the poor lame horse which was to
draw it to the station, and in this way she and Carrie were saved the
long walk. Alex. and Gaetano preceeded them on foot, so that Mr Marsh
and I had full possession of the seignorerial [seigneurial] part of the Castle - Carlo and Susanne,
of the humbler quarters. For the first [illegible] time since I left America I spent the day
in translating a German poem into English. At four the whole party came
back in our carriage of which Borgo has at last given us possession, and
we shall now be comparatively independent. They brought a large mail
from America - family letters etc. Among them one from our poor Aleck
written about a fortnight before he was taken prisoner - in very good
spirits and full of really touching patriotism. God grant he may be
speedily exchanged, and live to do his Country still further service.
The general news from America is encouraging notwithstanding the
hypocritical jerremiads of âour correspondentâ of the English Times. I
am glad to see the leading American papers speak out boldly as to the
propriety of making war upon English commerce at once in case she fits
out more Alabamaâs. This tone, which England cannot fail to see is good
earnest, will soon put a stop to her piracies. Giacchino had a second
interview with the Countess Ghirardi today in the subject of the Casa
dâAngennes. The Countess makes such fair offers, and the chance of doing
anything else is so small that I am afraid we shall be driven to take
the house from May and pay the rent all summer without occupying it,
merely for the sake of being sure of a roof next winter.
It was again necessary for Mr Marsh to spend the day at the Legation.
He found Chanoine Carrel already waiting for him there, supplied him
liberally with seeds from the Patent Office, added certain packages for
our famous guide Pellissier, and talked over various schemes for the
Becca di Nona, and other Alpine excursions this summer. The hardy old
mountaineer is so full of enthusiasm as ever. I am sorry not to see him.
Carrie and I spent an hour among the violets - rest of the day as usual.
The King arrived safely at Florence this evening at five, but we have as
yet no accounts of his reception. It is to be hoped every thing will go
smoothly this time. Every body is pleased that the king has behaved so
well in the affair of Bensa - Glowing statements too are given of the
increasing popularity of the Duchess at Naples, and the admiration
bestowed on her children - The poor Greeks, who supposed they had a king
at last in the person of Prince William of Denmark, are said to be
thrown quite aback by certain conditions which it will be impossible for
them to accede to. No doubt they would be glad to accept the advice of
the Examiner, and try to do without the âbearâ if the Great Powers would
allow them to do so. The
The last bookcases were brought today, and Mr Marsh library finally
set up, so that I hope he may work more conveniently next week. We were
able to fill our baskets with violets most abundantly this morning but
it will probably be our last harvest, except gleanings, this spring. We
sent the carriage to the station for Mr Artoni at six. He was surprised
to find what progress the foliage and the flowers of the garden have
made this week. One really does almost see the growth of the vine leaves
over the balcony. Indeed the creepers generally are getting quite green
though ten days age they were as bare as in January.
The well-ones passed the day in talking walking, driving and reading
or listening to letters and papers from home and from England. In the
first and last I shared fully, but was not well enough for any out-door
performances. Among items of home - news was a letter from Alickâs
Colonel, saying that they were well-treated and in good spirits, but
knew nothing of their destination. This is quite a relief, but there is
still much cause for anxiety about their ultimate fate - moving, as they
are, further south into a more unhealthy and destitute region. The
general aspect of the American news is cheering. The Copperheads are
turning tail in most of the States, though they are still blustering in
Indiana. Even there one of the stout-hearted loyal boys writes us they
are not feared. If tomorrow does not bring us news of defeats we shall
feel much encouraged. âOur correspondentâ of the London Times in getting
frantic. The awful crisis he has predicted wonât come, - the people,
though they havenât a spark of patriotism, have a silly superstition
about the Stars and Stripes which he canât account for, but which makes
them utterly blind to their true interests. In fact the faith in the
ultimate restoration of the Union amounts to a hallucination, - never
was a nation so perverse in refusing to fulfil prophecy. Mr Artoni
returned to Turin this evening.
A rainy day which Mr Marsh spent on his book and in bringing up some
private correspondence, and Carrie in reading and writing at my bedside.
We are in little danger of interruption here in any weather, but least
of all in this. The only event of the day was Gaetanoâs embassy to Turin
for the post, which brought nothing of consequence. Some of the cards
which come to us from Turin make us regret the loss of opportunities to
make interesting acquaintances, but one cannot have oneâs time for work
and for play too.
Mr Marsh went to town immediately after breakfast. This will give him
an opportunity of seeing what the road will be after rain. The report is
that the grass looks wonderfully green, and the forthcoming leaves have
made very rapid progress, but I am not well enough to get up and look
for myself. I can however hear the merry voices of the birds - These
blessed little creatures may be counted here by thousands, and it is
very pleasant to hear them, but after all there is no note among them
like that of our dear homely red-breast - or like our golden robin, or
our bobolink, or many another American bird I could name. I hope we may
have the nightingale later, but I am afraid our garden is not pretty
enough to attract this fastidious little creature. Mr Marsh came back at
five just as Carrie and I were finishing our hundred pages of Nota. The
road he declares to be passing bad - it having taken him two hours and
twenty minutes to go to Turin instead of the usual hour and a half. He
brought no news, and had nothing of interest the tell us except that the
house lately proposed to us by Dr Monnet, though prettily furnished and
in some respects desirable, was not large enough to hold us. It contains
but nine rooms in all including kitchen, all rather small, and the rent
six thousand francs a year - as much as we paid for the Casa dâAngennes,
By the way, our scheming for this last again has failed - Stella
refusing to rent any of the rooms on the upper piano, and the Countess
making up her mind that she could not hire for a year and a half in the
little apartment a pian terreno. We shall be obliged I suppose to try
for the dâAzeglio house once more.
I joined Mr Marsh and Carrie at five in the newly arranged dining
room, but took my dinner at a little table by myself where I could lie
on the sofa. Among the fruits for [illegible]
desert Alex, presented us with some very odd-looking apples. I had often
seen similar ones in Italy in the little street-markets, and wonderingly
watched the old women as they took them dripping from some small cask or
pail. I now found out find that they are a species of sour, hard, late
apple, which put in cold water as soon as gathered and so kept until a
thorough fermentation has taken place. The water is then changed after
which the apples are left in their bath until wanted for use. They are
said to keep in this way almost indefinitely, and are called mele
composte. They have much the appearance and taste of our âfrozen applesâ
which have remained on the trees through the winter, though the skin is
much thicker and tougher, and the taste of the fruit more vapid.
It being Carrieâs lesson-day at Turin, she with the servants drove
away a little before eight, leaving Mr Marsh and me with only Carlo and
Susanne as before. As I was not well enough to be up Mr Marsh came to
look at me from hour to hour, breaking off from his book-making for a
few minutes at a time. At four they returned, bringing the American
mail, but no very important news.
With letter-writing, German, drawing and Nota the morning flew away
so rapidly that I was surprised to find it almost five oâclock, when Mr
Marsh returned from Turin. While Carrie was drawing I sat for an hour on
the terrace looking in astonishment at the change which had taken place
in the garden during the four days I had been shut up in my room. The
woodbine on the old tower is now well leaved out, though it was not
advanced enough on Sunday to make me quite sure it was woodbine - the
trees, which were only slightly tinged with green, now cast a full
shadow, - the rose bushes are coming out finely - a large vine-like
acacia - a form of the plant new to me - is running up the terrace, and
another over the lower arches of the old cloisters, both in full flower
- clusters very like our locust blossoms, only of a pale lilac colour,
bordering on blue. The grape-vines are beautiful with those delicate
tints that appear on their first young leaves, and they are already
throwing out their flowers. Indeed everything is so changed that I
scarcely recognize the place. If it continues to improve in this way we
shall soon grow decidedly fond of the Castillo degli Stornelli of which
we have sometimes spoken a little disrespectfully. By the way, the
number of birds that inhabit the old tower, and that are flocking among
the garden trees is something wonderful. From what we had previously
known of the habits of the Italians generally, in making war upon all
winged creatures, we certainly did not expect to find ourselves
surrounded by such a feathered population. It is a joy to see the joy of
these happy creatures. There is another species of animal life here less
attractive indeed, but scarcely less numerous - I mean the lizards. As I
sat on the terrace this morning I think I saw literally hundreds running
about on the stone platform, darting in and out at every crevice,
springing up the wall, disappearing on the other side, climbing up
again, looking wickedly at me with their little sharp eyes, but showing
so little fear that I might have put my hand upon them if I had been so
disposed. Well I remember when the sight of one of these creatures, so
rare in the region where I was born, made me shudder. It was not till my
Oriental experience that had familiarized me with them, and till my long
domestication with the wonderful chameleon had made me feel the
liveliest interest in this curious family, that I learned to see them
not only without dislike but with positive pleasure.
The morning flew away as usual broken up a little by the waxing of
floors and the migration of Carrie into her new upper room that has a
lovely view of the mountains and plain, and is close to the old tower
with all its birds and all its fancies. I quite envy her. At six we sent
for Mr Artoni, and surprised him by the progress we had made in greenery
during the week. At dinner we happened to be talking of dialects when he
gave the transformation of vino in its progress from Florence to
Bergamo. Vino in Tuscany. Vin in Venice. Vi with a scarcely perceptible
nasal, in Brescia, Chi pronounced as a strong gutteral in Bergamo. Such
examples make one excessively sceptical about all etymologies except
merely historical ones.
Gaetano came back by the six AM. train and Mr Marsh was obliged to
hurry off instantly in order to be in time for the funeral at half past
nine. Alex. was quick enough to get a cup of tea for him while he was
changing his dress, for which I was very thankful, but as soon as he was
off I was distressed to notice the great change that had taken place in
the weather - a damp, cold east wind having come up and the shawl was
left behind. He returned before four, had been chilled by the drive out,
and did not seem well. The account he gives of the funeral is in many
respects painful. The National guard was out, with band etc, an immense
concourse of people assembled in the streets to see the procession and a
very large number of carriages followed the body to the cemetary. The
coffin was taken from the car by four ragged fellows, probably Swiss,
and carried to the place of burial. Mr Meille then read from the New
Testament selections far from being particularly appropriate, or even in
good taste, for the occasion, he then gave a brief discourse in which he
showed more discretion; but he was then followed by our old acquaintance
of Andorno - Father Ambrogio - who forgot all the proprieties of such an
occasion and fell, with the energy of old John Knox, upon the Romish
Church. By way of eulogizing the dead, he said, âĂ vero che non
apparteneva a quella setta nemica di Dio che vende le indulgenze!â etc
etc. âNon Ăš vero, non Ăš vero, come dice quella setta, che non ci sia
salute fuora di essa!â etc. Mr Marsh was shocked at the bad taste of
such an attack on the pope and the papacy, when most of those illegible
who had come there to show their respect, for the departed were faithful
adherents to that Church. Everybody kept quiet however - some members of
the Spanish Legation only whispering to each other that the man was mad.
The whole scene struck Mr Marsh as singularly wanting in everything like
dignity and impressiveness and he expressed strong regret that
Protestantism should have made so sad a figure before so large an
assembly of Catholics. To show how different an impression may be
produced by the same circumstances upon a man of another class I must
say that Gaetano, a Catholic of course, came home delighted with the
performance of Father Ambrogio - âGood for âem, good for âem!â says he,
âhe told them some true things about the pope and his Church, they ought
to hear them, it will do them good!â I am not surprised at any want of
discretion on the part of good Father Ambrogio, but I am rather
disappointed to find Mr Meille did not acquit himself more creditably.
The more I see of the Waldensese however, the more I am convinced that
their leaders are not men of breath enough to do much for the religious
reformation of Italy. The L. Times today is full of indignation about Mr
Adamsâ âpermitâ to the English ship to land at the Matamorus. It is very
funny certainly, and I dont wonder at their irritation though they have
fairly brought it upon themselves. Mr Adams will no doubt have some
explanation to make, but the present aspect of the thing is that this
cautious and dexterous diplomat has for once made a mistake - a trifle
to be sure, but one for which he is likely to be well abused. The papers
tonight say that Farini is somewhat better. I hope he may recover his
mind l sufficiently to appreciate and enjoy the very handsome compliment
the Chambers have paid to his great services - 200000 frs.
It is quite incredible how swiftly these days pass - uninterrupted
though they are. When I joined Mr Marsh and Carrie at the breakfast
table, they, as usual, had already been up between three and four hours.
- After breakfast we wrote a little, read a little, worked a little
while in water-colours after Ruskin, and in the midst of it Giacchino
came to ask if I was ready to dress for dinner. I was amazed. The
dressing done we all strolled into the garden - Carrie mounted the
tower, tied a cork to the end of a ball of worsted and lowered it down
from one of the turrets greatly to our amusement and much to our
edification afterwards, the result being that the height of the tower
was ninety nine feet from the point of the turret which she was able to
reach, but the outer wall of the turret rises more than a foot higher,
so that we may fairly say the venerable old pile measures a good
hundred. In the evening we were struck by the particularly melancholy
hooting of an owl in one of the old windows. The servants told us that
the gardener had shot its mate during the day, because he believed the
creature destroyed his cherries while they were in blossom. We were
vexed at the stupidity as well as the cruelty of this act, and I suppose
we shall try in vain to convince the gardener that owls do not eat his
cherry blossoms, and that on the contrary - they would be a great
protection to him against the moles of which he complains so bitterly.
The âvoices of the nightâ last night were most plaintive, the frogs sang
their loneliest and most monotonous song, and the poor desolate owl
cried in a way to make ones heart ache - yet all was wonderfully
âsuggestiveâ as they say in these days.
Another of our precious uninterrupted days. Our friends pity us for
being here so utterly without resource. We, on the contrary,
congratulate ourselves on this most delicious quiet, and only sigh at
the thought that such days must be very few. A stroll in the garden
closed the working-day.
Carrie went to Turin for her lessons, and as I found my eyes too
painful even to make the little use of them that I generally can,
husband kindly gave up his work earlier than usual, and read to me, and
carried my chair for me from one pleasant point in the garden to
another. The day was beautiful. The sun has great power now - one soon
feels faint while standing or walking in it, but in the shade a shawl is
still necessary, the air which comes down from the snow-covered
mountains tells plainly its origin. There was something so very soft in
the colour of the sky, something so very tender in all the sounds about
us, the hum of the thousand bees, the low rustle of the leaves, and the
loving notes of the birds, that we both of us became unconsciously
silent, and for myself I felt as if I were in a dream - a dream which
had so much of childhood in it that my eyes were too full of tears to
venture to lift them up to the face that was beside me. As we returned
to the house, we both said at the same moment: âHow is it possible not
to love the Country?â We returned to our reading - a little collection
of Italian stories - the two first most beautiful. The PietĂ di Mamma,
an exquisitely touching story of Italian humble life - the subject being
the distress of the inhabitants of a poor village when the order was
given that there must be no more burial in the Church, and that a
Camposanto should be consecrated outside the village. Before reading
this story I had never conceived that it could be a cause of pain to
have a departed friend laid at rest under the green sod, rather than
under the cold pavement of a dusky Church, but I understand it now. The
second, LâAnnina, has the scene laid in Il Chianti, near Spina, and the
Maremme, and is scarcely less pathetic than the first. Speaking of the
character of the inhabitants, which the writer declares to be now most
gentle and honest, he admits that for ages they had a very bad name, and
among other proverbs he quotes this âmolto brutto dettatoâ of the
village of Radda:
âRadda! Passa e guarda! Non ti fermar per via, Chi unnon. fa âl ladro, fa la spia.â
This story refers to the poorest class of peasants called pigionali,
who go to Frena, or to the Maremme, during harvest time to hire
themselves as reapers. The third story is a legend of the same region,
and the writer takes occasion, after painting the horors of life here
during the Middle Ages, to pay Baron Ricasoli a handsome compliment. He
says though the terrible Brolio âcolle sue grosse mura e la sus sue
forte torre non mostri nessuna rovinaâ it nevertheless no longer causes
a shudder, - âNon sons le tronche teste dei nemici, e des vassalli
ribelli che da quelle mura pendons, ma ui si affacciano invece vaghi e
dilettose rame di fiori, e le puiâ rieche vite di Toscana le cingono.
Che vale ora quellâ antico dettato.
âQuando Brolio vuol broliare Tutta Siena fa tremare!ââ
I find these stories of Italian peasant life l so attractive that I
half begin to adopt the gardenerâs views with regard to Carrie. He
strongly recommended to her the other day the study of Piedmontese,
assured her it would be a very nice accomplishment, tried to rouse her
ambition by telling her that Count de Brassier spoke it like a native,
and ended by offering to procure her a master in the village. C. weighed
his arguments very gravely with him, admitted their force, but told him
that she had already a great many lessons, and that perhaps for a while
she had best content herself with picking up what she could by ear.
Mr Marsh went to Turin by the early train and came back at 1 oclock
bringing no news of special interest except the debate in Parliament in
which Father Passaglia took a conspicuous part. The debate grew out of
another case of stealing Jewish children by priests, and out of the late
developments in Turin with regard to the conduct of the chief Director
of [illegible] the Ignorantelli P. Teoger, a
story too scandalous for belief if the flight of said director from
justice did not give countenance to it. If the people of Italy were left
to themselves to settle the question as to their own Church they would
settle it in a week to the entire satisfaction of the truly enlightened
of every country - but they must wait on the good pleasure of France, or
rather of her master. _ _ _ Mr Marsh had another long talk with his
little friend the âCapo di Stazione at Candiolo, and came back full of
zeal to make a pilgrimage to Pio sasco, Barge, [illegible] Pinerolo, La Tour etc, all of which the
amiable Capo paints in very attractive colors. In the course of his
confidential talk the young man bal confirmed the unanimous report of
the dependants of the Castle vis that the unhappy Count Brassier de St
Simon was the veriest slave to his pretty somnambulist - that she ruled
him most despotically and sometimes even gave him blows in the face so
violent as to force him to keep himself shut up for days. He told the
capo he should leave Mme. behind when he went to Constantinople but the
little vixen was otherwise minded and raised a storm that brought the
Count to reason. She went, with baby and nurse, leaving the oldest child
at a school not far from PiĂłbesi. She also insisted on taking some other
friends of hers in the capacity of upper sevants [servants] & even to this her slave was obliged to
submit. And this man has a wife - of good character so far as I have
heard - living at Nice - and he prefers a degradation like this, to a
quiet home. The merits of this Madame the Somnambulist consist in having
âla faccia dâun angeloâ with a good deal more of a âdiavoloâ .-
Mr Marsh called me at six this morning to see how splendidly clear
the mountains were, and to climb the Tower if I felt equal to it. I got
up at once - Carrie was ready with her huge key, and after a hard pull I
found myself at the top. The view was glorious but to say the truth I
was so tired, or rather so utterly exhausted, that I could not much
enjoy it. The stair-case is too narrow to allow any one to carry me, or
even to assist me to any purpose, and I think it will be wiser for me to
wait for my wings before I try the experiment again, How could any one
help envying the birds that were darting without the least effort from
this to the old church tower - from turret to tree, from tree to turret.
Mr Artoni came as usual this evening but brought no news beyond the
newspaper on dits. The cheif [chief] topic at
Turin is still the affair of the San Primitivo and the papers are
calling loudly for the suppression of the schools and indeed of the
whole order of the âIgnorantelliâ throughout the kingdom. The king is
expected at T. in a day or two.
One of the finest mornings imaginable. We spent our while time in the
open air. The younger ones climed the tower Mr Marsh & I contented
ourselves with the such a view of the great mountain-chain as we could
get from the garden & one could scarcely desire it to be
grander.
The green, blue & yellow lizard.
We strolled down among the apple-trees now in fullest blossom and
their fragrance - to me the sweetest perfume nature yeilds - over - came
me with memories of childhood. Dr Holmes is right when he says there is
nothing in nature that can call forth old associations like sm an odour.
At three we drove over to Baron Gautierâs villa which is pretty and has
a very fine garden. The house is said to magnificently furnished but the
Baroness does not like the place and they are almost never there. Their
possessions here are an immense fortune in themselves, but this estate
is only an item in their vast wealth. The country in now covered with
grain & grass, the winter rye will soon be ripe and the scythes are
already hanging about in the trees. But today it was difficult to see
any thing but the Alps so clear so dazzling. The mighty sweeps from the
peak to the base of Monte Viso - 13000 feet was as distinct before us as
snow and sunlight - cloudless mistless sunlight could make it. And in
fact all the chain from many degrees north of Monte Rosa round west and
south till the Alps met the Apennines - but why try to write of such a
scene. At Candiolo we met a great procession in honor of St Giuseppe -
very orderly and respectable. The [illegible]
contadini every where saluted us with much respect and I think are
getting over the dread of the heretics, which they felt at first. Mr
Marsh, after his first walk through the village said he was quite sure
the inhabitants âdid not want this man to reign over themâ - now they
seem quite reconciled to the new lord of the castle. After dinner all
went again to the top of the tower except myself, who was first
comfortably seated in one of the garden-walks with Monte Viso full
before me. Here the gardeners wife with her baby Pinotta soon joined me,
and in had a nice long talk. The good creature told me of her father and
mother, her brothers and sisters, the dear little girl she had lost,
&c &c. in a manner so simple and so touching that I found my own
eyes more full of tears as she wiped away hers own with her apron. If I
could tell her story as she told it, I should feel very sure of the
reputation of a thorough artist. And then in her turn she asked me
questions, of my parents, and my children, brothers, sisters,
&c. and when I answered, and told her how I had once left my parents
for five years when they were very very old, and yet found them living
on my return, and some other incidents connected therewith, she seemed
so much moved that I could not feel as if I was talking with an humble
and ignorant dependant almost for the first time, but rather that I was
speaking to some sympathetic old friend of my childhood. She concluded
her talk with, âAh! tante ricchezze, e nondimeno ci sono sempre dolori!â
I could not forbear a smile at her notions of our wealth which were as
wide of the mark as her conception of the distance from here to America.
She asked me if it was farther off than PistoĂŻa, and when I told her
that it was a great many days farther before we came to the water where
we took the vapore and that then we were many days without seeing any
land before we came to America, her condolence was unbounded. âAh,
povera Signora! proverina, poverina! Dio Mio!â She was very curious to
know everything about Carrie - quella bella e brava - as she called her.
I was so sorry to lose a part of what she said from my ignorance of this
abominable Piedmontese dialect. - When we returned to the house we found
the evening papers jubilant with the announcement of the suppression of
the San Primitivo. They also express much satisfaction at the kingâs
visit to Ricasoli in his Castle of Brolio. The Duchess who has been ill
at Naples is thought to be better.
Mr Marsh went to Turin early and returned at one, bringing back
papers and letters. The prospect of a war with England is now not small;
both nations talk loud, and ours at least is thouroughly angry and with
good cause. I still hope that the rulers in England may fear the effects
of a war so much as to induce them to take a course which no moral
considerations have hitherto been strong enough to force them to take.
Today we heard the first nightingale sing of the season. After dinner
Carrie took up some ivy plants to the top of the tower in the hope of
coaxing them to grow there, but I am afraid we shall not reap the
benefit of them in our day,
Nothing to break in upon our busy quiet today - not even the papers,
for we did not send to town. Mr Marsh is reviewing his mms for the last
time, and I am trying to follow him for another last time. Our garden
furnishes a delightful resting-place between the Acts of our long day.
This morning we heard the cuckoo for the first time this spring - her
plaintive note chimes in delightfully with the other sounds about us. We
also caug caught another glimpse of our beautiful lizard, and d saw a
smaller one apparently of the same species. As we sat on the terrace
about sunset the swallows flew so near to us that we might almost have
touched them - beautiful graceful creatures with their mantles of
blue-black velvet lined with white satin. Oh for their power of flight -
for wings, wings!
The disappointments from Vicksburg and Charleston completely poisoned
our day, though we tried to keep about our usual occupations. With all
these failures against the rebels our Country seems only to grow the
more bold in expressing her resentment at the base conduct of England,
and the English Ministry of course grow more impertinent. If we do not
have war either England must back out as we say, or I greatly mistake
the temper of my countrymen. It may be that a general European war will
break out in time to prevent us from coming to blows with England. The
Italians seem rather to hope for such a war, they fancy that somehow or
other it will throw Rome and Venice into their hands. The papers say
that Baron Ricasoli has recently purchased a fine palace in Rome and
that the king is extensively repairing an estate there which belongs to
the House of Savoy. The people who are easily encouraged fancy that
these circumstances prove that Rome will soon be in the possession of
Victor Emmanuel, but of course the last fact proves nothing, and the
first, if it be a fact, only shows that Ricasoli himself is still
hopeful, or that he thinks this a good way to begin to get a foothold
there.
We breakfasted early, and Mr Marsh and Carrie with two of the
servants went to Turin, leaving me to get on by myself. On such
occasions, comparing my eyes with what they were from twenty four to
forty four, I can see that they have improved decidedly within that
time. Instead of being unable to take up a book for one moment without
great pain, I can now refer to different volumes, without steady
reading, often enough to answer questions that arise in my own thoughts,
- and so I can fill up the hours of solitude without depending entirely
upon the âinner light.â The news Mr Marsh brought home amounted to very
little, - confirming however the repulse at Charleston and the probable
abandonment of the seige of Vicksburg. There are also further
developments of the history of Gen. McClellanâs campaign, which would
add to his infamy if it were not already past taking any deeper
colour.
Our May-day proved a dark and rainy one, but we were too busy to sigh
over it, though we had intended to have the variety of a drive towards
evening, in which we were disappointed of course. I was sorry to learn
from Giacchino that a poor little fatherless girl of twelve, employed by
the gardener to take care of the cow, had been with it in the field all
day, notwithstanding the cold damp rain. G. found it out from having
sent for her to try to measure her on the sly, for a chintz gown, which
she needs sadly. Her father died last autumn leaving the mother with no
earthly possession except nine children the oldest of which whom is now
sixteen. They are said to be good children, and the parents had a good
name, nor has the mother lost hers during this year of distress. Her
poor neighbors have done what they could for her, but they say that the
family suffered greatly during the winter in spite of the little they
could do for them
The rain was heavy and constant until four oâclock, and there being
no temptations outside we were able to accomplish a good deal within
doors. Mr Artoni came not-withstanding the weather, and the post he
brought looked more pacific as to the relations between England and
America, and on the whole the war news from home was not so bad.
When I I joined Mr Marsh in his cabinet this morning I found him
looking annoyed and perplexed. Mr Artoni had just told him of Mrs De
Zeyckâs woefully embarrassed condition and shown him a letter from De
Zeyck himself, asking him (Artoni) to aid her, but saying he had rather
she would starve than be indebted to Mr Marsh for anything. This last
heroic declaration was accompanied with every imaginable epithet of
abuse, and violent threats to do him every mischief in his power
hereafter. All this amiable manifestation comes from Mr Marshâs having
told him last summer, when he came all the way from Taranto to get money
of him, that he should have written to him and not have made such an
expensive journey in his circumstances - that he did wrong to come to
his post with a large family taking the most expensive route through
England and France and staying for his pleasure in London and Paris when
he was so poorly provided with money as to be obliged to borrow of the
consul at Marseilles for the means to finish his journey. He also told
him that he had himself no resources beyond his own salary, that he was
exposed constantly to similar and equally pressing requests, and that it
was utterly out of his power to furnish him the money he desired. He
however paid the expenses of De Zeyckâs journey and his hotel bill while
in Turin where he stayed a fortnight, living in style, and walking the
streets dressed with an elegance which my husband would certainly not
feel that he could afford. It was evident at the time that the fellow
was angry at Mr Marsh for not providing him with as many thousand francs
as he asked for, and that he was still more angry on account of the
advice given him to act with more prudence. Not long after this we were
not a little surprised to hear that Mrs De Zeyck with four children had
arrived in Turin and was looking for an apartment for the winter. One of
two things was certain, either she had means of her own independent of
her husband, or she had no more discretion than he, and would soon be
starving or we must take care of her. The latter is probably the case.
Her situation has been going from bad to worse, until Saturday she sent
to Mr Artoni to say that she had not [illegible]
means to give her children bread the next day. He sent her a Napoleon,
and then brought her story to us. And in this penniless condition she
has is living in one of the most expensive capitals in Europe, has three
servants, with masters for her children and medical attendants for
herself. Of course she cannot live without servants, but as she has no
means to pay them she can get only such as pilfer and steal from her
everything they can get. She tells the most extraordinary stories of the
infidelity of those about her - I say extraordinary not because they are
improbable so far as the servants are concerned, but because it is
almost incredible that a woman of common sense could put herself so in
their power, - giving them money to pay bills without sending her own
boy with them, and without even asking for the receipt - taking sending
silver by them to be pawned without in the least knowing where they
would go, and without even asking for a receipt for it from the
pawnbrokers, and innumerable other equally discrete performances. Mr
Marsh sent her two hundred and fifty francs - also a certificate to a
banker that she was the person she professed to be. I do not think there
is any doubt but that she will accept the money notwithstanding her
husbandâs indignation. By the way, I ought to state - to help my own
memory hereafter, which alone makes me record the story - that De Zeyck
did repay the money Mr Marsh gave him last summer, not being willing to
be under obligations to such an inhuman monster. As to the poor woman
and her children, I cant for my life see whatâs to be done. If she would
go to her husband at Taranto where everything is so cheap they might
live simply on his salary, if she will not do this she certainly should
go to her friends in America and not try to live here in such an
expensive way on the charity of those upon whom she has no claim
whatever, beyond that of common humanity. That she has herself no [illegible] proper notions of her present position, or
indeed of what she has a right to expect from others, is evident from
what she says of an Italian gentleman who has furnished her with three
hundred francs with no security except her word, and no doubt without
the least expectation of being repaid. She says: âI asked that gentleman
for six hundred francs; he gave me only three hundred, but said that
though he could do no more then, he would, perhaps, give me three
hundred l more by and bye, and now he does not keep his promise.â ! What
is to be done with such a head? I shall try to see or send to Mrs
Tottenham, who has been to see her, and try to get her to advise her to
go back to her husband or to return to America In case she will do this
we would willingly do everything in our power for her, but money given
her now is only enabling her to run deeper and deeper into debt, without
doing the least good except keeping her from present starvation. In the
afternoon we drove to Stupinigi - roads very bad.
Our first work this morning was to write to Miss Arbesser from whom I
had a long and affectionate letter Saturday She has recovered from her
homesickness, and is now infinitely delighted with Naples and its
surroundings. Even the people interest her immensely, as they could not
fail to do any one of her quick artistic sense. The visit of the Duchess
has certainly proved a success. Her court has been one of almost more
than royal magnificence. The photograph Miss Arbesser sends of her
little princess in costume is not so pretty as the one she sent before
in morning dress. We were all rather dull today and neither the
manuscript nor the lessons advanced as well as usual. Indeed we spent a
considerable part of the morning in making bouquets of buttercups and
daisies, and notwithstanding my proposal to fill some little baskets
with these poor vulgar blossoms was met with wondering scorn, yet the
result was pronounced very very pretty. Carrie crowned our cast of the
King with a wreath of her own manufacture, but was a little startled
when I told her the green she had chosen was the cypress - what would be
held a bad omen here.
Mr Marsh, who went to Turin early, returned at one, though he had
expected to be detained there all day. Mr Artoni reports that Mrs De
Zeyck obtained a thousand francs from the banker through Mr Marshâs
simple certificate that she was the wife of a consul, but she took
eagerly enough the two hundred and fifty francs we sent her, and that
too without even offering to repay the Napoleon sent her on Saturday by
Mr Artoni to furnish her table for Sunday! Charity demands us to believe
that there is a monstrous deal of weakness here - or we are driven to a
still more unfavourable conclusion. Nothing of interest in the papers,
unless I except an article in the London Times, even more overflowing if
possible, than usual with âenvy, hatred, malice and all
uncharitablenessâ towards us Americans. A letter from Miss Blackwell
with her usual catalogue of disappointments and disasters. Poor child,
if there is any such thing as an unlucky star, it must have been high in
the ascendant at the hour of her nativity.
The manuscript and other work made fair progress today, as we had no
interruption - not even the post. Talking over this evening our quiet
life for the last two few months Mr Marsh and I both came to the
conclusion that in the course of our whole lives, either since those
lives have run together or before, we have never had a period so free
from interruption, so favourable to work. Thank Heaven, he has eyes and
strength to do it.
Most of our household went to Turin this morning. They brought back
an American post, with more encouraging news than usual. The spirit of
the people at the North seems to show itself more and more determined to
sacrifice everything to the great and righteous cause. Oh! if we had but
men at the head of the government! Alexander brings home a report of a
grand row in the Piazza S. Carlo last night. It seems Father Ambrogio
was holding one of his street meetings (Mr Artoni told us last Sunday
that thousands gathered to hear him) when a curate of the nearest church
came out and ordered him to cease preaching, and depart from the
quarter. The sturdy Father refused to obey, saying that when the proper
authorities ordered him away, he should go, but not sooner. Some grave
persons in the assembly advised the interfering priest to go home and
let the affair take its own course. Instead of doing so the priest at
once gave orders that the bells of his own church should be rung, and
also procured those of the neighboring churches to sound the alarm. This
of course doubled and trippled the crowd, but to the amazement of the
zealous Romanist no doubt, this crowd took the side of the threatened
Father Ambrogio, and the meddler escaped maltreatment only with very
great difficulty. Father Ambrogio, after the priest had fled,
distributed some of his programms for a national church, and then told
the multitude that he was tired and could say no more to them then, but
God willing he would meet them again Friday evening at the same place!
Perhaps in time the government may learn that the people are not so far
behind them it as it fancies.
I have no variety in the even tenor of our way to record today, We
passed the morning as usual, then strolled in the garden, gathered up
the scattered birds, and restored them as far as we could to the
disconsolate mammas, and were finally driven into the house by the sound
of a coming temporale. C. and I then went up stairs intending to do some
serious work with our water-colours, but it was difficult to see
anything very distinctly between the blinding flashes of one moment and
the twilight of the next, so that our efforts ended in an extemporary
princess, with very red ribbons and very red cheeks, who stood pointing
at an object on a rock, which I took to be a lantern, but which Carrie
said was in fact a crown. We came down rested if not greatly the better
artists.
A thunder-storm worthy of a western prairie came upon us about three
and continued till after five. We supposed Mr Artoni would not come of
course, but he did, and reported perfectly fine weather at Turin. The
tĂŽta gave the gardenerâs little cowherd a pretty and stout chintz dress
this evening. The poor child had great difficulty in comprehending the
nature of the miracle, and seemed at first sadly frightened. Then at
last the truth fairly dawned upon her that she was actually the owner of
the precious garment she was overjoyed of course. All that drenching
shower she had stood exposed in the open field.
We were so busy all day that it was not until after dinner that I
discovered how fine the day was - the air so soft and delicious, and
even till tea-time there was no perceptible chill and we sat out later
than we have been able to do before. The birds are an unfailing source
of interest to us, and it is wonderful to find how many different notes,
tones and intonations we learn to distinguish in the same species of
bird. I have no doubt their language is as perfect in its way as ours.
It was really refreshing after having written letters a large part of
the day - letters full of the cares, the anxieties, the sorrows of life,
to sit down so quietly with nothing but the calm of nature, or her
entire harmonies, around us. I almost forgot the griefs I had been
trying to console, the fears I had been trying to dispel, the
indignation of which I had made a confession. I doubt whether even the
London Times could have stirred my pulse during this hour we were on the
terrace. Only this morning I felt my face flush at the low insinuations
cast upon Miss Dickenson, to whom âour correspondentâ dares not deny the
gift of extraordinary eloquence, and the charms of grace and beauty. She
must have uttered truths, and in a forcible way, too, that went to his
conscience, for he finds nothing to reply to her except to call her - âa
scoldâ etc etc
If âall work & no playâ makes dull boys, we shall soon all be
boys and very dull ones at that. Mr M & C. were up at 5 - we all
breakfasted at 7 that Mr M might go by the early train to Turin. He came
back at twelve and found C. & me just where he had left us - she
being swallowed up in her lessons, I in his Ms. Our only rest all day
was an hour after dinner on the terrace. But it does not fatigue one to
work when one is not distracted by visits.
Notice at corner of Corso del re Piazza Carlo Felice. Ă vietato ai
veicoli percorrese longitudinalmente il controviale. rather learned
this, for a warning to the common coachy.
Our house-keeping machinery, which usually runs as smooth and
noiselessly as that of a fairy tale, has been jarred a little by the
illness of the laundress during the past two days. At first it seemed I
an attack of colic of not at all a severe character. Gaetano had already
assumed the functions of medicus before I was told of her illness. He
had given her oil very judiciously, but when I went to her she
complained that notwithstanding the medicine she still felt a good deal
of pain, and soreness at a particular point, and wished for leeches. She
had no fever then, was in a gentle perspiration, and as she objected to
a doctor it did not seem to me necessary to urge it. I did not however
advise her against the leeches she had proposed, and thought they might
do her good. Our cook, who is her husband, said he understood perfectly
how to put them on, having done it many times. We all went to bed
quietly, my maid giving directions to be called if any thing went wrong.
Soon after midnight I heard a rap at her door - then some stirring about
her room - and then the door again opened and closed. With some
difficulty I persuaded Mr Marsh to let me go and see what was the
matter, knowing that I should produce less of a scare among the servants
that his presence would do. I knocked at Giacchinoâs door, and was
answered by a very faint voice from her. âOh, please come in Madame if
you can a moment.â I went in, found her as white as a piece of paper.
Whether just recovering from, or just passing into a fainting fit I did
not know. Alexander was bathing her with cologne water and greatly
agitated. The story was that Giacchino went to the door to see what
Carlo wanted, and while talking with him became suddenly faint, fell,
and was carried by him back to her bed. In the meantime Alex. had
comprehended from Carlo that he had not been able to stop the bleeding
from the leeches, that he had allowed six to take hold at the same point
and they had of course made quite a severe wound; he had allowed this
bleeding to go on for two or three hours till poor Susanne began to
faint. Alex. sent Carlo to Gaetano and this was as far as matters had
gone when I went in to Giacchinoâs room. I asked if cob-webs had been
tried, and found they had. I then told Aleck as soon as the patient we
had in hat hand had pretty thoroughly revived under port-wine, to have a
doctor sent for if there was one in the village, if not to call in the
apothecary. The medicus however begged to be allowed to try an
experiment, and if he could not stop it in ten minutes my directions
should be followed. Within the ten minutes I had the satisfaction of
hearing that he had succeeded perfectly. Two applications of tinder from
burnt linen answered the purpose.
This morning the household is all a little the worse for wear.
Susanne is of course very weak and can hardly tell whether her bad
feelings are from loss of blood or from the fact that her difficulties
are not removed. Carlo is worn out by want of sleep for three nights,
and both Aleck and Giacchino are by no means well. Gaetano makes no
complaint. He has strength enough to stand a good many such nights
without being the worse for it. To us he is an invaluable servant, and I
often think that if like Cavour, he had been born a Count, had had all
the advantages which such a position implies, he might have been
scarcely less important to his country. I have never before seen
anything like the power of intuition of this man. When I wish to give
him an order and my Italian is not fluent enough to explain myself
without a little hesitation, he says instantly. âSi, si, signora,
capisco.â and then tells me what I want him to do, with a clearness, and
an amount of detail that astonishes me. âYou wish me to say to __ con
molte complimentiâ - here follows a string of graceful compliments such
as I could never have invented for myself, - and then comes the precise
message, exactly as I could have wished it, and the only clue he had had
to all this, was perhaps the name of the person, and a knowledge of
something that had previously passed between us. Oftentimes when any of
the Diplomatic Corps are ill, he goes entirely of his own accord,
invents the most proper messages for us and then returns to tell us what
he had done and the answer. Many and many a neglect on our part he has
covered in this way. His defference and politeness to us is unbounded,
but unfortunately is is [sic] rough and coarse
with the other servants and shows a harshness sometimes towards his own
inferiors that is very un-Italian. He is a Gvenese enoese, but has far
more of the characteristics of the Neopolitan While we were enjoying
after dinner the post in the garden, and still more the delicious air,
the singing of the nightingales, the swift glancing of the swallows, and
last, but not least, the grand mountains, Alexander came out to announce
Baron Gautier. This is the first visitor except Mr Artoni that I have
received for six weeks, and I believe the only one who has been to the
Castle, except a couple of Italian officers, and the poet Ferrara of
PiĂłbesi. We talked over the ordinary common-places for an hour, and then
the Baron took his leave to return to Turin. I fancy from his hesitation
about the B time of the Baronessâs coming to PiĂłbesi, that she does not
intend to occupy their chĂąteau here this summer. Poor thing! with her
habits it would he [be] a dull life for her, and
yet she is far less dependant than any other Italian woman of society
whom I know.
It is doing sad outrage to my youthful fancies to confess that I
wished most heartily last night for the power of hushing up the
nightingales for an hour or two at least. Fell Feeling a little nervous,
partly from pain, and partly from anxiety about Susanne, I was rather
disposed to be wakeful, and it really seemed as if there were a
combination among the nightingales not to cease for one moment their
clear, soft piping, or their delicious gushing warble. Mr Marsh, who
went to Turin early to see if it would be necessary for him to go to
Ancona to be present at the opening of the railroad to Pescara, returned
with the pleasant news that only Prince Umberto was going and that he
should not feel obliged to go himself. This settled, and good reports
being brought from Susanne we all set quietly to work again, and the day
passed as usual without any interruption whatever. The evening was balmy
and musical, and the alternate voices of the owl and the nightingale
brought up very forcibly the old poem, and it was difficult to restrain
ones fancy from inventing a new dialogue. This reminds me of the pity I
felt for poor Baron Gautier who complained grievously of the great
number of birds around his chĂąteau from which he could not rid it - pas
moyen, pas moyen de les chasser - I confessed to the weakness of rather
liking them. The gentleman gave me an enquiring glance with very wide
eyes, but made no reply.
Mr Artoniâs arrival in the evening was our only interruption except
the visits made by some of us from time to time to poor Susanne who does
not much improve. Nothing of especial interest from Turin. The evening
papers contain a despatch from America saying that a battle is going on
between Hooker and Lee.
This morning the air feels very like summer, and we found the shady
garden walks altogether the pleasantest lounging place. Susanneâs
illness however has rather turned our domestic establishment sottosopra
as Carrie expresses it, and our day was a less quiet one than usual. Dr
Monnet, who came to see the patient at six this morning, reports her
very ill, but he hopes not dangerously so. He encourages us with the
hope that he shall find a house for us in Turin during the course of the
next two months.
Mr Marsh was at his work this morning soon after four, but Carrie and
I were on the semi-sick list, and were obliged to pass an idle day. My
little boudoir became family headquarters - the first day it has really
been occupied since we camd came here. It was a pretty sight at sunset
to see the gardener, who had finished his dayâs work, sitting under the
old cloisters, with his baby in his arms and his older boy at his knee
while his wife was bustling in and out about her chores so we should
say. There is something so picturesque about these people, under
whatever circumstances one sees them. When I look at these children, the
oldest of which now little more than seven already reads and writes, I
cannot help earnestly hoping that they may grow up more enlightened than
their parents. This very gardener, for instance, who seems kind and
obliging, refused to take the trouble to spread over his garden a
quantity of valuable material for enriching it though it was offered him
as a free gift. He said very likely he should not be employed here
another year, and he did not care to make the garden good for those who
were to come after him. It was in vain that he was told that he would be
more than twice repaid for his trouble by the improvement of his own
crops this very year. He was inflexable. Another instance of his
short-sightedness we have had in his behaviour about some very nice
seeds which Mr Marsh gave him from the American Patent Office. Although
it was explained to him what they were, that they would prove a great
addition to his vegetables etc, he planted but a very small quantity of
what were given him, and these in a part of the garden so completely
shaded that there is not the least chance that the plants will ever come
to maturity. The motives for this course were no doubt two. First, he
did not believe that anything could be better than what he had been
accustomed to cultivate and his father before him - the second he
thought that Mr Marsh would expect a portion of the products in return
for the seed. As it never entered our minds that he could have this
idea, we did not think to explain to him that we would take the corn,
beans, etc and pay him for them as for anything else in the garden. This
being understood he would no doubt have cultivated them carefully. Such
things prove not only want of intilligence on the part of the poor, but
great want of liberality on the part of the rich.
Dr Monnet came out in the mid day train, pronounced Susanne much
better, took a cup of chocolate with us, and had just time to allow the
heavy shower to pass over before it was necessary to go back to the
station. We all feel in better spirits at the good report about Susanne,
and I hope Carrie and I may both feel well enough tomorrow to take up
again at least a part of our regular occupations. Today we have been
just worthless enough to amuse ourselves with a family of larks, another
of sparrows, a third of magpies and one poor, stray starling, - all of
which have become a part of our household. They can all fly a little
except the larks and they will soon be old enough to take to the wing.
Tonight we have a bad telegram from America - the defeat of Sedgwick -
but we hope it will not be so bad when we know the whole. Our disasters
seem endless.
Alexander brought from Turin this morning a hand-bill containing a
notice of young Garibaldiâs prowess in Poland. I hope this may be
soothing to his father, who must be chafing at Caprera at the neglect
with which he is treated by our government as well as his own. The tone
of the papers towards France when speaking of her adventures in Mexico
proves that Italy rejoices that her ally has found her attempt to
interfere with us an expensive job, and likely to bring forth only
bitter fruits. The thunder-shower we had here yesterday was a very
ouragan in Turin where it burst water-pipes and broke windows, and sent
torrents through the streets quite to the terror of the inhabitants.
Dr Monnet came out by the six A.M. train, pronounced Susanne so well
as to need no further attendance, and roused all Mr Marshâs mountain
enthusiasm by telling him of the wonders of Monte Viso, the Traversette
and Dauphigny in general. It is amusing to see how he fires at the very
thought of a glacier and a lofty peak or pass. I thought the experiences
of the last two years with all the severe climbs accomplished, would do
something to abate his zeal, but they seem to have had rather the
contrary effect. The Dr. promises us a letter to the âanciensâ of
Bobbio, which is to insure us good guides and every attention the poor
place can offer. I have had a hearty laugh at Mr Marsh over the
satisfaction he takes in this prospective service to be rendered by the
Bobbians, and have tried to moderate his expectations, by telling him
that no great amount of comfort was to be expected in a village where
the whole household expenses of a family of five amon amounted to
scarcely one hundred francs per annum. These one hundred francs feed,
clothe, shelter and warm the household. It will certainly be very
interesting to see how such people live, and to learn something of them,
but unluckily their want of a language makes this last very
difficult.
The grand division of the family went to Turin this morning, leaving
at headquarters only the invalids and two of the able-bodied to take
care of them. Mr Marsh returned at one, the rest at six. Nothing of
special interest in the way of news. Mr Marsh made the acquaintance of
Signor Moriundo, one of the chief judges. He lives at Candiolo. In
trying to pick up information about the actual condition of the
inhabitants of this little village, for instance, he accounts are so
contradictory that one sometimes quite despairs of ever getting at
anything like the truth. Baron Gautier says that all the fertile plain
around the village for miles is owned by three or four proprietors, he
himself being one - that they do not lease it out at all, and only hire
the peasants to make the hay, and take care of the other crops. The
peasants, he says, live on what they earn in this way as well as they
can, but confesses that they are necessarily very poor, as their wages
are very low, and that they add to their little earnings when they can
by poaching on the Kingâs hunting grounds of Stupiniggi etc. etc. This
agrees with the accounts given by the capostazione. On the other hand
our gardener declares that a great many of the inhabitants of the
village are small proprietors, that a great many others have land in
lease, and that it may always be had by those who are industrious, and
can command money enough to pay the rent. Mr Marshâs habits will not
allow him to give up the pursuit of the truth in this matter, and I
suppose he will find it out in time, but the enquiring mind is often
sadly tossed about. I could not help smiling when he gave me after his
return an account of the conversation he had had with an English or
Scotch family on their way to Pignerole this morning. The lady who was
evidently a very intelligent and earnest woman was also afflicted with
this unreasonable desire of knowing something about the country and the
people where she was travelling. She asked Mr Marsh many questions,
especially about the religious feeling of the community in this
neighborhood, taking him for an Italian. As she spoke the language very
well, and had very dark hair and eyes he also took her for a native of
some part of the Peninsula, and it was some time before they found out
that their mother-tongue was the same. The lady enquired what could best
be done to really aid the inhabitants of the valleys especially, to make
moral and physical improvement, and I hope she may leave behind her some
permanent marks of her wish to serve them. Carrie spent the day with the
Tottenhams, and from them learned indirectly something of TĂŽta Pulszkyâs
visit to Garibaldi. She seems to have had a âsplendid timeâ as she calls
it but the only particular item of enjoyment reported is climbing by a
ladder into the hay-loft and dancing on the hay with Menotti and
Ricciotto. Menotti has led a very different dance since that day, if
there is any truth in handbills.
The retreat of Hooker across the Rappahannoch and the great victory
claimed by the rebels came upon us last night like a thunder-bolt. There
had been a previous report of the retreat of Sedgwick, but we still
hoped Hookerâs main division might be strong enough to crush Lee. Our
calamities seem infinite, and I cannot help feeling that our government
needs all this to bring it up to more manly action on the slavery
question. It has been driven to do much, but it has not yet been brought
to be willing to employ thoroughly anti-slavery officers. When it does
that we shall have victories - I am afraid not till then. As long as Gen
Halleck directs military movements from Washington so long I have little
faith in any great triumph over rebeldom. A heavy rain keeps Mr Artoni
from us tonight.
This is our first Sunday entirely by ourselves since we came to
Starling Castle, and we all enjoyed it immensely. It is always pleasant
to us to have Mr Artoni here, but still I sometimes wish his one day in
the week would [illegible] occasionally come on
other days than Sundays. This I dare say he would like better too, but
it does not seem practicable. We read John Bunyan, which Mr Marsh always
takes particular pleasure in, then we read the Brownings a while, looked
a little at Buckle, ran over a few pages of Bacon, and the day was done.
There is something so pleasant, in these days of surfeit of new books,
in turning over the leaves of volumes with which we have been familiar
from our childhood It is not merely the thoughts, the sentiments, the
style, which we admired then that give us so much pleasure now, but the
thousand chords of mysterious association that they touch are so many
new guarantees of our own immortal nature.
Mr Marsh went to Turin by the 8.50 train to be present at the opening
of the Parlament by the King. His Majesty entered the Parlament chamber
about eleven, accompanied by the Prince Caragnano and a large suite. He
was received by the chamber with tumultuous applause. The Duchess of
Genoa accompanied by Princes Umberto and Amedeo occupied the Court
Tribune. The ladies of the Diplomatic Corps were not in the Diplomatic
Tribune with the Ministers themselves, and were probably seated near the
Duchess, though Mr Marsh did not see them. The Kingâs speech was
received with the wildest enthusiasm. (See left-hand page.) Mr Solvyns,
talking to Mr Marsh of an interview he had with the King in Florence
says the latter told him that he looked for a general war in Europe
which should put the finishing stroke to the edifice of Italian unity,
that things could not go on much longer as they were now going on at
Rome - that if they did he âwould resign his crown and offer himself as
a volunteer in the cause of the Federal Government!â This pleases us
very much, not because we suppose Victor Emmanuel really contemplates
offering his sword to President Lincoln, but because, said to a Minister
from another Country, it is a new proof of the sincere interest he takes
in the final triumph of the American Republic. I was glad Mr Marsh had
an opportunity to talk a little with Mr Solvyns, for the cheerful tone
of the latter helps him to look a little less despairingly upon this
late terrible failure of âfighting Joe Hooker.â Among the Diplomatic
gossip are some statements about the last days of poor Mr Tourte which
are very painful. When the physicians became alarmed about him his
sister in Geneva was telegraphed for. She came at once, but hearing that
her brother was nursed by a pretty Genoese, (who was installed in the
same house with him, and who had been so for some months,) she, the
sister, refused to go to enter his rooms, or even the house, and the
poor man died without the consolation of seeing his sister, and sending
through her one parting message to his afflicted old mother. Alas, for
white robes, made of materials to catch a stain so easily! Genoese or
Genevan - let God judge betwen them - not us - but I am grieved when
Christians do such unchristian deeds.
We were obliged to call in Dr. Monnet again this morning for poor
Susanne, whose maladie has returned upon her. He proposes, in case she
is not better in a day or two, to take her to the little Protestant
hospital (at Turin) where he can see her more frequently, and where she
can have the benefit of a better nurse than can be had elsewhere. I do
not like the idea of sending a sick servant out of my house - a thing we
have never done even in cases of very protracted illness - but this
distance from a physician is a serious evil, and if Susanne is satisfied
with the plan I shall be glad for the sake of the other servants who are
getting restless under the confusion her sickness necessarily makes in
the house. / The Dr. thinks he has found a house for us, and I hope it
may turn out so. The proprietor is Count Farcito, a real man of honour
upon whose word one may rely, and the apartment is next to his own -
Casa del Diavolo -. (This sounds like a dangerous neighborhood, but
Count Farcito himself has certainly no marks of pitch about him, and
perhaps we may not suffer more than he seems to have done. Our news from
America is so bad in every sense that we have not much heart to think
about houses, or anything else that looks like having an abiding city.
One doesnât know which most to admire - the dull honesty, the weakness
or the madness of our most unlucky President.
A very monotonous, but I hope not altogether unprofitable day. Mr
Marsh and Carrie walked over to Baron Gautierâs just before dinner, the
air being so very cool that they did not find it too warm. Carrie came
back with glowing accounts of the nightingales and the crickets - the
trees being filled with the music of the former, and the new-mown
hay-fields with the latter.
The Drâs visit was our only interruption today. He brings further
information about Count Farcitoâs apartment and we shall should try to
take measures to secure it at once if the news from America were not so
utterly disheartening. The manuscript gets on famously so far as the
amount of work done each day is concerned - but the material to be used
up is always receiving new additions, and I am afraid we shall not see
the end of it before the end of June.
Our American paper, the N.Y. Times, received today, gives no
countenance whatever to the idea that McClellan is to be recalled to the
command of the Potomac army, nor does it speak of public affairs in the
tone of discouragement which the false English journals, and the
scarcely less false telegrams, would have led us to expect. Neither are
our letters from home-friends more depressed than heretofore. There
seems no disposition to give up the Ship. After receiving the Post we
returned to our work with more courage - perhaps only to the stunned
again by a new telegram of fresh disasters.
A close sultry day much like N.E. dog-days. Mr Artoni did not come to
us, so the Pinerolo trip was given up. We worked till dinner, and after
dinner sat on the terrace and watched the swallows as they flew in
dancing circles around and above us. Who can help envying these happy
creatures. Then the trees were gay with the bright finches - but for
some reason or other the nightingales were silent. As the twilight faded
into the pale silver of the moon-light the owls began their most
melancholy cries, the human sounds from the village died away, and when
we were ready to go to rest not a leaf stirred was stirring nor a living
thing giving forth its voice except the sad night-bird.
Dr. Monnet pronounced his patient once more on the high road to
recovery, and promises that she shall be as good as new in eight days
unless something very unexpected occurs. In the course of the
conversation the politics of Europe came up; and Mr Marsh broke forth
into one of those sudden and earthquake-like explosions to which men of
his usually self-restrained manner are sometimes subject. I am always
diverted by the effect the eruption produces upon those who have never
before seen anything in him but the most profound calm. The Doctor could
not conceal his amazement nor his pleasure when my husband gave his
opinion of the English government and the Prussian people. The course of
the former he said, âhad always been most basely selfish in all its
dealings with foreign nationsâ - that âits hypocritical cant about
philanthrophy and christian principle was as shallow and transparent as
it was impudent.â Of the Prussian people - and of the Germans generally
he said that âthey lacked all true manhoodâ, that âthey were a set of
miserable poly-theists who worshipped their coarse aristocracy equally
with their God,â and that âthey fully deserved for their weakness in â48
to be treated as their King was now treating themâ. Dr Monnet who as far
as he understands politics at all is quite with us, was very unwilling
to let the subject drop, but after a few sentences Mr Marsh subsided
again into his ordinary calm, and I was much amused to watch the Drâs
vain efforts to rouse him once more. âTwas plain enough that he wanted
to get more to carry away, but the hurricane had gone by.
Carrie went to Turin to bring home Madeline Tottenham. It is so
vexatious to the fettered by the intolerable convenances of European
life. In America Carrie could have gone down in the train by herself and
brought back her little friend without further circumstances. Here it
was not enough that our footman was obliged to go down for Mr Marsh and
could accompany her, but I must send my maid besides. Sometimes I am
tempted to defy this nonsense altogether, but when I remember that the
freedom of our young girls could not exist in a country where the young
men were not brought up to respect that freedom, my judgment shows me
that I must yield to public sentiment. My eyes held out for a two hours
examination of manuscript; the rest of the day was good for nothing for
me, of course. We had specially interesting letters from America today
on political subjects. One from Mr Norton - another from Mr Homes.
Mr Marsh went to town this afternoon to dine at the French
Ministerâs. The Diplomatic Corps generally were present. Several persons
con belonging to the Ministry - as Menabrea Peruzzi &c. and the
Mesdames. Mr Marsh took out the Countess Alfieri. The dinner passed
agreeably. There was considerable aside-chuckling over the success of
the opposition in the Paris elections. Everybody seems to think the
emperor in a critical position, and the last news from Mexico will not
tend to soothe him. Mr Marsh passed an hour with Dr. and Mrs Doremus
after dinner, He was charmed with the latter. Dr Doremus is here on some
business connected with his powder invention. I am sorry we are not in
town, and in a situation to show them some attention. This post brought
a letter from Mr Stillman at Rome containing statements which, if there
is no mistake about them, ought to send certain of our representatives
in Italy back to their our country in disgrace. It is really humiliating
to see what an influence flattery and fashion can exercise over some of
our people. That Mr Blatchford, with his previous connection with
Archbishop Hughes, and with his utter ignorance of Italian politics and
Italian history, should be befooled by the misrepresentations of an
interested and cunning banker, and by the cajoling of an aristocratic
priesthood, does not surprise me. But Mrs Blatchford, with a head
stronger than her husbandâs and far more enlightened - I hoped better
things of her. We shall still try to believe that the rumors that have
reached us from Florence of Mr Laurenceâs sympathy with the cause of the
fallen Grand Duke, are incorrect, but oh, that we could have men of
knowledge and brains and principle to represent us in Europe, especially
in such a time as this! Poor Italy in this her desperate struggle to
cast off the chains and draw out the iron that has pierced her soul for
so many ages, - that she should have the influence of the land of
Washington against her!
There was nothing to mark the day of any particular variety, and we
pursued our weary way as cheerfully as we might through some portion of
the ever increasing pile of manuscript. Mr Marsh gets so desperate
sometimes that I am almost afraid of his committing a libricide in some
moment of more than usual fatigue.
After our usual dayâs work we turned over a pile of Washington papers
of dates from the 10th to the 19th. There were certainly some
encouraging things but we felt greatly saddened to find so many names of
old acquaintances in the list of sufferers in some form or other from
this black rebellion. I will not say God reward the projectors and
abettors of it as they deserve for this would bring upon them too
fearful a judgment. While we were reading Carrie and her little friend
went out with Giacchino to see the Corpus Domini procession. They
describe it as a pretty sight - there being something of distinctive
costume still left in these little villages. The syndicâs daughter
especially was very gay in silk and gold beads, but even she was
outshone by a girl who had received a legacy of a couple thousand francs
or so from a master or mistress whom she had served. Silk and gold beads
seem to be the objects of special ambition, and these two enviable
damsels wore several strings of the latter of very large size almost
covering the bosom from the neck to the waist. Our little Maria invited
the young ladies into her fatherâs house, showed them her silk-worms,
her little flower and vegetable garden, and finally insisted on their
taking wine with the family. This was done with a very ceremonious
hob-a-nob, after which the girls came home. I am very much pleased to
have Carrie get an opportunity now and then to see something of the
inside of peasant life here, and now that she can speak with them easily
she will be able to get a good deal of information about their modes of
life and thought. The silk-worm disease is committing dreadful ravages
everywhere in Piedmont. It is really sad that these poor creatures
should work so hard and lose all their labour at the last moment. Our
little Maria is a degree above most of her class. She can read and
write, and says her father would have liked that she should learn a
great deal more, but the priests would not let her. âThey always put her
back to the beginning of the same book when she had finished it, and
would never let her learn anything else.â
The morning went as usual - manuscript work, and then post, then a
little lounging, and then dinner. Just before dinner I took up Emersonâs
Threnody, and it never struck me as so beautiful before. In imagery and
thought both it is exquisite, and I only wonder that the poet should
fancy that the consoling thoughts suggested in it are âbeyond the reach
of Bible etcâ. I am afraid he has not yet learned all the wisdom of that
book.
Sad news from home again - Johnâs dear little Charlie gone - but I
must try to keep in part my resolution not to write of private griefs
such are not likely to be forgotten - need no paper record. Nor did the
sad news come alone - with it came also the tidings of Alexâs release
and safe arrival home. May he not have escaped a prison to die on a
battle field.
Carrie went home with Madeline this morning to spend two or three
days during the Festa. Oh this long, long wearying illness of mine has
its compensations. I am not forced to participate in gaieties from which
my heart is now so far. Mr Marsh & I had a [illegible] very quiet day by ourselves, most of the
servants even have gone to town for the Statuto Festa.
Mr Marsh brought back from town this morning his usual political
Jobâs post. Instead of the details of the âgrandi successiâ obtained by
Grant on the Mississippi, we have a telegram announcing his complete
defeat before Vicksburg with a loss of five thousand men. This telegram
comes through our enemies and there is, no doubt, much exaggeration
about it, but at any rate it does not look much like a great success. It
is also stated that Lee is crossing the Rappahannock to attack Maryland
& Pennsylvania. If he would take Washington, and with it some of the
imbeciles who control affairs there and keep them and their more guilty
associates who know better but who basely sacrifice the blood &
treasure of their country to their own hopes of being raised to greater
power - if Lee would take these & keep them or hang them out of the
way of better men, there might still be a hope of saving our country so
as by fire - It has often been asked which does the most mischief a
knave or a fool - who dares answer?
Our guests retired late last night, with their heads full of the
wonderful experiences of De Brassier here, and of his circle, and I
really believe Miss Arbesser was relieved when she found she was not to
sleep on the side of the house nearest the old tower. Poor de Brassier!
It is melancholy to hear the tales they tell of the manner in which he
is imposed upon by the false beauty into whose hands he has unluckily
fallen. De Bunsen gave such a history of the poor Countâs terror when he
found that etiquette obliged him to be one of the pall-bearers at the
funeral of his collegue Lannoy as would be really ludicrous if any thing
could be ludicrous connected with death on the one hand and a wild fear
of it on the other. But I must not go back to my gossip. It was arranged
that Mr de Bunsen and Miss A__. were to return in the carriage as they
came, leaving at six, taking only a cup of coffee before setting out.
Carrie went to Miss Arbesser soon after five, but the bird was flown.
She had been for more than an hour wandering about the garden and the
meadows, enjoying this one only day of liberty, or rather half day,
which she has had for nearly two years, and for all this confinement,
and for all this care she receives only 2,000 francs a year. What should
we say to this in America. I have no doubt she sometimes receives
handsome presents, as for instance from the king when she was going to
Naples, but she told me frankly that she was obliged to send to her
father for money. She says she very seldom sees the King, but the better
she understands the royal family the more highly she prizes his good
sense, his good faith, and his great heart, neither of which virtues
have the Jesuits been able to extinguish in him, though they have
succeeded in leading him in to gross vice. By the way a letter was
received by the family on Monday from the Queen of Portugal written
apparently in the expansion of her heart. She says she is so happy, so
happy. Her handsome young husband is very much devoted to her, she is
very little fettered by etiquette, and I have no doubt is very happy. In
fact the daughters of the House of Savoy rank high among the virtuous
princesses of Europe, and Princess Clotilda and Marie have been
fortunate in finding husbands to appreciate their goodness. Who would
have thought that Prince Napoleon would treat his wife with an
affectionate tenderness that should make her the envy of most of the her
royal sisters. When we sat down to the breakfast table at nine all quiet
by ourselves as usual the visit and the gossip and the earnest talk and
all, seemed to me quite like a dream. In fact during the hour or two
that I slept I was in fancy in Turin, and the Arconatisâa, the
Colegnaâs, the Littas, the King, the princes, the princesses, Naples,
the Bourbons, Garibaldi, - everything was all so jumbled together that
it was not strange that all alike should have seemed a dream. Among the
interesting things we talked of last evening were the remarkable
discoveries lately made by Mr. de Bunsenâs brother-in-law, Mr
Wadrington, in the region east of Damascus - a great number of christian
villages abandoned for many many centuries, but still in a state of fine
preservation. The number of inscriptions - and to these the traveller
devotes himself exclusively, - is very large and very curious. I infer,
though he did not say so, that the Christians were dislodged from these
villages by the Mahomedans and that the country has since been left
entirely desolate. In some districts however there must be a small
christian population still, as Mr Wadrington states that he saw a
religious service celebrated in a church that was built in the 4th
century. His narrative will no doubt be of the highest interest. This
reminds me that our King has just sent a medal to Speake [Speke] and Grant for their late discoveries in
Africa. The very elegant Egyptian pasha - who after making very earnest
enquiries about the rivers of our country, and being told of the length
and breath of the Mississippi, said with great gravity - âAh, no doubt
that great river is in some way connected with our Nileâ, - will now
have to give up that point as Messers Speake and Grant have proved to
the contrary.
We fell back into the old hard-working way today. The weather is
rainy and cold - one does not often see a more autumn-like day even in a
New England June. This evening we had the N.Y. Times containing an
account of the capture of Vicksburg - contradicted alas, by later
telegrams. Our home-letters full of anxieties and tears. âWould to God
we were in our own Country,â we often say and as often add, âbut no
doubt it is best as it is.â Miss Blackwell writes that she will be here
early next week. When she is in a house she leaves little time for its
inmates to think their own thoughts, and perhaps it will be well for us
to be thoroughly stirred up for a little while, though I must try to
protect Mr Marsh in his sanctum. I dont know what sheâll find to write
about here to enlighten enliven her newspaper letters. We can give her
some information about the rural economy of Piobesi, can give her an
opportunity to study natural history in our menagery, which offers very
numerous specimens of the winged world, and some quadrupeds. She may
learn that it is the manner of the Piobesans to take the young chickens
from their mamma as soon as they are hatched, and by placing fresh eggs
under the hen cheat her into another patient brooding of weeks, then
repeat the theft, again substituting fresh eggs, until the poor creature
is completely wasted away, when they leave her to bring up her last
brood herself if she has life enough left to do it. In the meantime the
young ones are sold two sous apiece to such as may choose to by and give
their own time to the little hatchlings. It is said that one of our old
Vermont governors once told his wife by way of comfort that âa henâs
time wasnât worth muchâ, but it seems that a Piobesan values his own at
still less. We have a brood of these poor little shivering creatures
which Alex took out of pity, and which must be wrapped every night in
cotton-wool, and are as much care as a farmerâs baby.
The weather which for the last month has been very unsettled has I
hope reached its climax of illnature today. It began raining about
eleven with a cold north east wind which soon brought the thermometer
from 64 to 56 Fahr. - thunder, lightning and wind continued for several
hours, and at evening it seemed almost cold enough for a frost. No event
of interest except an accident to my knee which threatens to add
lameness for some time to my other infirmities. Carrie and I find
consolation however in the prospect of t going to Cairo in search of our
one-eyed Suleiman who has such extraordinary gifts in healing
sprains.
After an unsuccessful attempt to stand this morning I concluded to
resign myself to remaining in bed for the day, had Chapter III of the
manuscript brought to me, and spent some hours in un-paging and paging
it. As the dinner hour drew near I made one more experiment to see if I
could get out to be at the table with Mr Clay and Mr Artoni whom we were
expecting. To my astonishment I found every trace of the lameness gone
and my knee as good as new - without having been to Cairo either. We had
a pleasant time at dinner, Mr Clay told us something of his excursion
for the last two months, and Mr Artoni seemed also in very good spirits.
In the evening he continued the De Zyck [Zeyck]
narrative. That witch of a woman by interesting a kind hearted Hungarian
lady in her favour, has managed to get another thirty francs out of Mr
Artoni. I am indignant that this thing should go on. The foolish woman
sent a considerable part of the 1250 francs with which she was furnished
three weeks ago, to her worthless husband and now she is literally
begging from everyone with whom she has ever had the slightest
relations, even of the man who sold her wood last winter! And yet she
will not hear of going to a less expensive place, declares that Turin is
nearer Taranto than Naples, that she has made both journeys, and doesnât
care what the maps say. Also that she knows that it costs more to live
at Taranto than Turin having tried both! She says she doesnât want
anybodyâs sympathy, though she should like to be furnished with a little
more money. All this she said to the Hungarian lady who had just brought
her the thirty francs from Mr Artoni, and who was remonstrating with her
against her remaining any longer in her present position. The Hungarian
told her that she too had known extreme poverty, that even now she had
not been able to give her these thirty francs without asking a friend
for it, a thing she certainly would not have done for herself, - âbut,â
she added, âwhen one sees that a position of this kind is becoming
permanent, has already lasted for months without any prospect of
improvement, one must rouse oneâs self to some new effort, either return
to friends who can give assistance, or put oneâs self in circumstances
where the expense will be less, and the possibility of earning something
be greater. My husband preferred to sweep the streets of London rather
than to ask charity for his family or suffer me to ask it. We were able
even there to keep ourselves independent, then we went to your Country
where we did well, were kindly treated, had an opportunity to earn a
comfortably living, became American citizens, and now my heart warms
towards every American, - but I must speak plainly and frankly with
you.â And to this appeal she received the above replies.
We sent Gaetano to town early this morning to say to Miss Blackwell
and her brother who had arrived two days sooner than we had expected
them, that having friends with us for the night of Sunday we could not
ask them to come till Monday morning. On receiving this note they drove
out at once, dined with us and returned to town in the evening, Mr
Blackwellâs business requiring them to leave for Paris tomorrow night. I
am much disappointed, at having so short a visit from them. Mr Blackwell
made a most favourable impression on us, and as to Anna I have not seen
her appear so well since she left us in Burlington in 1838. She was calm
and clearheaded, and appeared like her own self. She confirms all we
have heard about the Hooker-Blatchford doings in Rome. This is really
too much, and I hope Mr Marsh will some day be in a position to expose
the baseness of some of our great political leaders in trying to secure
the Irish Catholic vote of America, by sustaining the detested papacy at
Rome. The information of the Blackwells was entirely voluntary, and as
they said nothing about the action of American officials in Florence we
asked no questions for conscienceâs sake. Among the little incidental
scraps from Anna I learned what I did not know before, but what it seems
everybody else does know, that Fagnani, the admirable painter whom we
like so much, the hero of the Dillon affair, is a son of Queen Cristina,
a nephew of Bomba, and a cousin of Bombolino! Our prejudice has become
rather strong against Bourbon royal blood, but here is a case of a manâs
being a true man even though so closely linked with that family. Miss
Blackwell had many interesting things to tell us of Paris gossip, of her
presentation to the Emperor and Empress, of the very unfavourable
impresson produced upon her by the latter - of the Daytons, of the
Pikes, of the Bigelows, Doremussâ &c. They left a little before
nine.
By way of showing me something of the progress made by Italy in
liberty during the last few years Mr Artoni told me an anecdote of
himself. âI wasâ said he, âsummoned before a court to take an oath in
some matter connected with this Madame De Zyck [Zeyck]. The Judge said to me as I was about to be
sworn:âElla Ăš Catolica, non Ăš vero!â I replied, âNo, signor giudice, io
sono Protestantissimo.â and there was a general laugh among the
assistants.â The moral of this anecdote was, that before â48 for such an
answer he would have been reported to the king, and his arrest would
have been ordered before nightfall, whereas now, his ready frankness
amused and met the approbation of all the bystanders.
Mr Marsh came home from Turin ganz verstimmt - the house we had hoped
for would by no means answer - He found no time to go to the Library, -
news from America not satisfactory, and worst of all our Re GalantĂșomo
had condescended to congratulate the Emperor on his victory at Puebla! I
would not have believed that Victor Emmanuel would have joined in this
hurrah of triumph over a neutral nation, that happens to be too weak to
be feared as an enemy. His family connection with France makes some
shadow of excuse for him, but the wrong of the thing becomes manifest in
an instant when it is considered that had this been a victory over
Austria or Prussia or England no such felicitations would have been
publicly made. So far England - be it jealousy or generosity - has
forborne to join in these cowardly congratulations. The papers tonight
look a little as if Prussia might at last be roused to some feeble show
of resistance to the mad king, but illegible nobody supposes it will
come to anything. Mr Marsh took poor Canziâs autographs today, and
furnished him with money to go to America He hopes to find some rich
American who will give their real value for these Autographs, and that
he shall be able to send Canzi a still further remittance for them. The
young soldier was overwhelmed with gratitude and delight, but when he
spoke of going to bid his mother goodbye he was too much overcome to
finish his sentence. Mr Marsh has written to Mr Lawrence about the
autographs and I sincerely hope he may take them. We can ill afford to
keep them ourselves.
Giacchino returned from Turin at one bringing with her Miss Alice
Tottenham who is to spend a few days with Carrie. I was not able to get
up till towards evening, when I went into Mr Marshâs cabinet and found
him thoroughly worn out with twelve hours almost uninterrupted work. I
tried to turn his thoughts from his book by talking of our home-affairs,
picking out scraps from the N. Times, etc. and last of all succeeded by
rousing his attention thoroughly by tempting him to take up the Saturday
Review, - a paper the tone and temper of which are as disgraceful to
modern civilization as are some of the principles it does not take the
pains to conceal. One article in it however seemed scarcely too severe
for the occasion. It was with reference to a speech made by Rev. of the
Scotch Free Church, a member of the Committee on Popery, and the subject
was an inscription which the Queen had ordered to be placed on a marble
slab fixed in the cairn just erected at Balmoral in her own private
grounds as a memorial of the late Prince Consort. The inscription was a
singularly appropriate one taken from the Wisdom of Solomon - one of the
Apocryphal Books. Such an exhibition of blind bigotry I should not have
supposed was to be witnessed at this day in the Free Kirk of Scotland.
And it seems that the Record, the Low Church organ, not only endorses
the Bible-loving Scotchmanâs bitter complaint, but takes occasion to
throw the blame of this heathenish business on the Broad-churchmen who
are the religious advisors of the Royal family.
The Daily News brought us the details of American battles to June 3rd
leaving Grant after many heroic deeds, regularly besieging Vicksburg,
but threatened in the rear. A telegram this evening states that Banks
has been repulsed at Port Hudson with a loss of 4000 men. One ought not
to say: nothing but repulses, after all the late victories by Banks and
Grant, but certainly the strongholds of these rebels are very strong.
The news of Alickâs release would give me some comfort if I did not know
he was already sent to the scene of these terrible struggles, to take
his chance for life or death, with so many thousand of others.
We did not even send for the Post today, not having any good news to
expect at any rate. My eyes did me good service, allowing me to spend a
great part of the day in looking over, paging, &c, the manuscript.
The weather continues unsettled, showers with thunder occurring every
day towards evening.
Yesterday and today there was an animated debate in Parliament, or
rather an animated coll personal collision between Rattazzi on one side
and Minghetti on the other. Rattazzi was very bitter, especially in his
allusion to the fact that Minghetti had formally occupied a seat in the
councils of the Holy Father, and Peruzzi in those of the grand duke, but
Minghettiâs reply was most telling and eloquent, and brought down
thunders of applause from the house and galleries. Rattazzi made little
by this motion. - As usual, the regular thunderstorm came up this
afternoon. The American intelligence through the Daily News is far more
satisfactory than the picked telegrams we get through unfriendly
sources.
Carrie and Alice went down to Turin this evening to be ready to see
the fire-works to-morrow evening. Mr Marsh & I strolled into the
garden after they drove off, and we soon met Carlo & Susanna arm in
arm in one of the walks enjoying the sun-set-hour like ourselves.
Another turn and we came upon Alexander and Giacchino with their hands
full of feathered foundlings and followed by two pet kittens. As we came
back to the house the gardener was sitting under the cloisters beside
the tall rose-vine, his wife by his side, his baby on his arm, and the
older boy leaning on his motherâs knee. We laughed as we counted up the
Darbys and Joans that inhabit the Castle, and concluded that as that,
[illegible] three of these faithful Benedicts,
who were always so quiet and contented at home, were Italians, there
must after all be some domestic happiness even among this race. - Our
aviary now contains about fifty birds mostly stray ones found, which
were too young to fly or feed themselves.
A lovely day but very cool for the season. We read Pilgrims Progress
& curious old Selden - then papers and letters from home - then sat
and talked under the sycamores, watched the birds and dreamed. Among the
hundreds of swallows that alight about the terrace, the windows etc. is
a pair that come every evening and sit, sometimes one, sometimes both,
on a wire, in front of the drawing room balcony, that serves to support
a grape-vine. Here within a couple of feet of us they twitter and plume
themselves, and give us an excellent opportunity to study all their
little ways for an hour. In the vine, a little to the right, is a nest
of young goldfinches - most quiet, well-behaved birds. - The servants
saw the fire-works at Turin very distinctly from the tower.
The weather seems settled at last and this evening we were able to
remain on the terrace without chill till bed-time. It was wonderful to
watch the retreat of one species of animal life and the reappearance of
another as the twilight deepened. First the stornelli disappeared about
sunset, then the finches by degrees ceased their noisy chirping in the
plane trees & hazles, but the swallows, which now go to their nests
much later than in the spring, continued their swift circles and sweeps,
and their twittering and the sharp shrill cry they utter at this season,
for at least half an hour after sunset. Then came the notes of the
nightingales on our right and on our left - then a distant owl - and
even the far-off croak of the frogs was not an unpleasant discord in
this evening hymn. A little later, and hundreds of bats sallied out and
chased the few mosquitoes that visit our premises, the great night
beetles began to whiz over our heads, now and then a village dog barked
sharply, a belated market cart rattled heavily over the paved piazza,
and then came a pause to be broken anew, but every successive one
becoming longer & deeper than the preceeding - How wonderfully
soothing is the influence of nature! A few hours before I had been
pained and agitated by a communication made me concerning the character
of an Italian lady of rank and wealth to whom I had taken a great fancy
- she is so graceful, so gentle and must, in her days of youth &
health, have been most beautiful, After telling me that the Marchese __
had for many years been notoriously her lover (no objection being made
on the part of the husband, who is one of those rare fools who are made
humble by a consciousness of their folly) my friend said, âI have known
this ever since you became acquainted with the lady, and in fact every
resident of Turin knows it, but so long as there was no probability of
your being much thrown together, I did not think it worth while to tell
you as I know you do not relish such tales. Now, however, that there is
a prospect that you may soon be so situated as to be often in her
company, I thought it my duty to tell you what the world saysâ. Though I
could not believe this story, woman-like I retold it to my husband who,
after weighing the matter a moment, exclaimed, âWell! well! I thank God
we are not like these publicans!â as naturally and as heartily as if the
words had not been borrowed from one intended to serve, not as an
example, but as a warning. The end of our deliberation was, that there
might possibly be some truth in the story (for here all things are
possible) but that more probably it was one of those scandals which the
lowest class of of dependents of in Italy are constantly circulating
about their superiors upon the most trivial cause of suspicion. The
marvel is that these slanders are so readily believed by the peers of
the subjects of them, and it must be admitted that this fact proves a
bad social state. Still we are satisfied that more than one half the
scandal current in high-life in Turin originates in tale bearing
servants who either ignorently misinterpret or willfully misrepresent
things that in our country would be regarded as most natural and
innocent. On the whole I had rather believe that âall men are liarsâ in
the most literal sense, than that all men & women too are the whited
sepulchres that vulgar rumor makes them. And under the soft twilight my
charity grows broader, I contrasted a N.E. education and an Italian one
- the teachings of a Puritan preacher and a popish priest, the marriage
of choice and the marriage of convenance, until I was forced to the
conclusion that these publicans were not worse than we Pharisees might
have been under the same circumstances.
Mr Marsh went early to T. to see John Kasson - came back at twelve -
with no especial news except that Minghetti and Rattazzi fought a duel
Sunday morning - Rattazzi scratched in the arm, no other mischief. I am
sorry M. condescended to this. Mr Kasson is here on Postal business -
hopes to make some arrangements that will reduce foreign postage.
This has been one of those cross-grained days which cannot be coaxed
into good-humour. Nothing would go right. We were later in setting out
for Turin than we had intended to be. When we arrived we found there had
been a mistake made by Alexander as to the hour when we wanted our
apartment and we had to take refuge in a little bed-room till a family
should leave for Milan. In this way we lost an opportunity of showing Mr
Kasson our king who came to pay a visit to the King Portugal King
Ferdinand of Portugal. Of course we could not stand in the passage to
gaze as the strangers did, and we were obliged to take our servantsâ
report. His Majesty came in a simple hunting-jacket with no token of
royalty about him except the scarlet out-rider and his attendants. The
Prince Carignano was in full uniform. Another disappointment was finding
no note from Mrs Tottenham, and hearing nothing from Carrie. Then Mr
Marsh, who had intended to spend the day in verifying his quotations at
the University Library, found himself obliged to go with Mr Kasson to
the Minister of Foreign Affairs at twelve. After his return a false
tailor kept him waiting another hour, then a note sent to Count Farcito,
who had written to ask Mr Marsh to go with him to see the remainder of
his apartment, was not delivered for two hours after it was handed to
the messenger, my unhappy husband waiting all the time in expectation of
the Countâs arrival. Alex. was sent after Gaetano, and Giacchino nearly
sent after Alexander. When the message finally came it was time for Mr
Marsh to dress for the Diplomatic dinner at the Turkish Ministerâs - so
the day was utterly lost. Dressing commenced, he found himself minus a
cravat, but luckily the strait colar of the uniform concealed the
catastrophe, Nor was this the only miss, as we found out later. There
was no night-gown in his night-sack - no toothbrush in mine - in short
it was a day of crosses. Just as I was sitting down to the dinner-table
with Mr Kasson I had the mortification to see Miss Arbesser drive out
with the Duchess! I had supposed her in Stresa and therefore had not
sent to the palace to say that I was in Turin which I had promised
faithfully to do if she were still in town when I came there. I tried to
forget all these contre temps in an animated talk with Mr Kasson. He
told me when we were by ourselves, that he had been much struck with the
opinions Mr Marsh and I had expressed the evening before on the subject
of Roman Catholicism, that he must now tell me frankly he was afraid his
wife was going over to that Church, that he had tried to persuade
himself that it was a matter of little consequence, that much of what
had been said about that religion was mere vulgar prejudices &c. but
that his secret misgivings had been greatly aggravated by what we had
said, and he earnestly wished I could see and talk with his wife before
it was too late. He seemed a good deal agitated, and I felt truly
grieved at what he had said. I told him, however, of certain Catholic
books on the subject of the confessional, which I should advise him to
put in Mrs Kassonâs hands, as he had told me that confession was the
most attractive thing to the mind of his wife in the Romish system.
There is a weakness in the talk of Protestant women on this subject that
almost makes one lose oneâs temper. For Mr Kassonâs own benefit I
strongly recommended to him Micheletâs âLe PrĂȘtre et la Famille.â
Perhaps the best safeguard for her may be to strengthen his convictions
and increase his knowledge on this point. We talked of nothing else till
he took his leave except when we were interrupted by other visitors. Mr
Marsh returned about ten - dinner rather agreeable, though all the
guests were indignant at having been obliged to wear uniform. Neither
Russia nor Prussia was there, - a circumstance which created some
surprise considering the present state of diplomatic relations. Sir
James was there, to every bodyâs astonishment. Mr Marsh sat between
Minghetti and Perruzzi with Count Sartiges in front. I notice that Mr
Marshâs admiration for Minghetti as an earnest and able man, rises at
every new interview - . Just before going to bed we discovered that no
order had been given for the carriage to meet us at the station of
Candiolo at half past twelve in the morning. This made it necessary to
send Gaetano by the first morning train, and we gave orders accordingly.
After retiring to our room and talking over quietly the events of the
day, my disappointment in not finding the Marchese in town to take the
long-talked-of photograph, the mistake about Miss Arbesser, and the
failure to see other friends, Mr Marsh concluded it would be better to
sacrifice another day rather than to fail altogether in the main objects
of our visit to town. Accordingly it was settled that instead of
disturbing the servants to countermand orders already given, Mr Marsh
should see Alexander in time to prevent his doing the marketing for the
day, and then the matter of the carriages was of little consequence. On
this conclusion we went to sleep, but at a very late hour.
Mr Marsh rose early according to the arrangement, but Alex, who I
believe never got up so early before except on a journey, was already
off to market, and before our breakfast, the meats, fruits etc. for a
dinner in PiĂłbesi were already on their way to the station. So it seemed
the fates were against us, and I decided to return at twelve with
Carrie, as first settled, and leave Mr Marsh to come back by the five
train. So I sent for Carrie while we were at breakfast, but like all the
rest of our luck on this occasion, she wasnât ready, Giacchino had to
wait and pack her things though she had not a moment to spare, then
drove furiously back to shuffle our things into our carpet-bags, and to
run out and look for her own lost parasol. The carriage was sent back
for Carrie who came in course of time with Mrs Tottenham and Alice - I
had a hurried momentâs talk with Mrs T. about houses to be rented, and
in the meantime Mr Marsh returned from his exploration with Count
Farcito. He reported unfavourably of that apartment, Mrs T. kindly
undertook to enquire further about Villamarina rooms. Carrie, who had
dashed out with the maid in search of a pair of boots, now came back,
and I waited for Mr Kassonâs promised morning visit to say goodbye, but
here was another failure - he was too late, and I can say I was truly
thankful after so many petty discomfortures to find my face set towards
Castle Quiet, and glad enough was I to reach it, though my summerâs
experience had taught me that in Italy at least one has to pay a price
for such a luxury. A most odd character, who was our companion in the
rail-way compartment, deserves notice. As soon as we took our seats he
began to talk to us in a hurried and excited manner. He said he was an
impiegato in the household of Prince Otho at Genoa, that he had
temporary leave of absence which he was employing in taking some very
handsome furniture to a little country-seat of his not far from
Pignerol. He then entered into a description of the prince - his person,
his character, his habits, his tastes, his studies, - showed us some
rings, antiques he said, which were the gifts of his royal patron, then
told us about his father, his fine brothers, his lost wife, his two-year
old bimbo, his three horses, and his big dog, and his uccelli Americani,
and all this without a question on our part. My first impression was
that the [illegible] man was mad, my second,
that he might be some sort of vice-major-domo of the Princeâs household.
At any rate if he was a born gentleman, he is now unquestionably mad. I
left him at Candiolo with a buon viaggo, but certainly without regret.
At six Mr Marsh came without having experienced any new crosses. We were
glad enough to be all safely together once more with the additional
cause of congratulation that neither masters nor servants had lost their
tempers whatever else had gone wrong.
We tried to call back into the old routine today, but there must
always be at least one lost morning after such a little flurry in a life
so quiet as is ours here. Mr Artoni brought the post at six, but there
was no news of importance - only one feels all the time as if on the eve
of great events. England and France can scarcely suppress their growls
at each other - Prussia seems on the point of exploding - Italy hopes
Hungary will bestir herself and manage to occupy Austria so that she
(Italy) may seize Venetia. She also hopes that France may be got into a
war with Russia, and so make the friendship of Italy important enough to
induce the emperor to withdraw his troops from Rome. In the meantime one
of the English Admiralty Courts, in the face of all the legal
interpreters and of the [illegible] action of
England for the last eighty years, has decided that there was no law in
England to prevent the fitting out of Alabamas etc. provided the
armament is not put on board in the port from which they sail. It is
true there is an appeal from this decision, but it is nevertheless a
sign of the times, and will cause fresh irritation on our side.
of Pennsylvania by Gen. Lee, and the call of the President for
150,000 additional troops. This is precisely of a piece with the rest of
the management at Washington. Hooker has told them over and over that
Lee was preparing to enter Maryland and Pennsylvania, but the President
thought perhaps he wouldnât do it, and he would wait before calling for
troops to see how the Vicksburg siege should turn out! Would to Heaven
that Lee could get into his possession some of these men who are such
nightmares upon us. If he should however Jeff. Davis would order them to
be instantly released and restored to their position. This telegram
comes to us without a word from Vicksburg or Port Hudson from which we
infer that there is at least no bad news from that quarter, there never
being any delay in transmitting such. The New York Times of the 12th
however does not speak of the seige of Vicksburg with much confidence -
talks of the strength of the place, of the length of time that may be
required, and the great danger to Grant from Johnstone in his rear. Our
warm day closed with a gentle shower, very refreshing, but not wet
enough to prevent Mr Artoni from returning to Turin.
At one oâclock the maccaroni merchant and his wife, who were tenants
of that part of the Casa dâAngennes just below our kitchen, came puffing
and panting from Candiolo with a message from the Contessa Ghirardi to
this effect: She was tired out with the endless vexations she had had
with the tenants of her handsome apartment since we left it, and that
she was now quite ready to make us the same proposal which we had
offered to accept last Spring. The two new rooms she says will be
completed and ready to be occupied by the 1st of September, at which
time she promises us possession. We are quite at a loss how to
understand this. It may be in good faith, it may be a mere trick to play
us off against the minister of grace and justice who had made her an
offer for the house. Then again, we had just recommenced negotiations
for the apartment of the Countess Villamarina, and I can scarcely help
feeling a little vexation at the Countess Ghirardi, even if she is in
earnest, for having kept us so long in search of other houses, and
leaving us to give other people so much trouble. I sent her word,
however, that she had in her possession the proposal made her by Mr
Marsh last Spring, that if she was disposed to accept it she would be
kind enough to write us a note to that effect. We should consider the
affair settled and Mr Marsh would go to her at once to talk over some of
the details of the contract. We shall be too happy if we can really get
this house once more with its two additional rooms, but we have learned
the ways of the Turiners so well that we shall be but little
disappointed to find we are only played with again. With the exception
of this rather welcome interruption we passed the day in our usual
occupations. It has now become so warm that we can safely and
comfortably sit on the terrace till bed-time, and we find an untiring
amusement in watching the frolics of the birds, especially the troop of
swallows, though I often wish for some experienced naturalist to tell me
what they mean. Our aviary has increased immensely in population, but
the naughty jays have made war on some of the rest of the birds, eaten
the eggs of the ring-doves, and even killed some sparrows, so that we
have been obliged to divide the âHappy Family.â The nightingales also
are favoured with a separate apartment, so that we have no less than
three bird-rooms. A young sparrow who had been brought to us two or
three days before and could not fly very well was missing one morning,
and supposed to have been destroyed f by the jays, as the wire netting
across the windows was too fine to allow a bird to escape. Two days
after the little fugitive was seen on the outside of the window, and
came in at once through a broken mesh which had not been noticed before,
but through which it seemed impossible that the little creature could
force its way. He took his breakfast with satisfaction, and again went
off. On his second return Aleck caught him, and brought him down to us
and told the story. I took him in my hand and he seemed so quiet and
tame that I held him losely. Suddenly, however, he gave me the slip and
was out of the window in an instant. An hourâs pursuit followed. He was
chased from tree to tree, from vine to vine, but without being caught,
and we all thought its fright was so great that it would never return to
the house. Next morning, though, to our joy, the pretty little creature
came for his breakfast as usual.
Mr Kasson came out to dine with us at five Mr Marsh having previously
returned from Turin at twelve - the latter went to see the Countess G.
who promised good fashions, and says she will have the contract drawn up
at once, only she would like to see our maitre dâhĂŽtel first to show us
what extra cellar-room she can give us in place of the coachhouse which
she wishes to retain. He left her however with the impression that she
was witch enough to raise fresh difficulties, and very likely would do
so. This evening we spent in a long and most interesting talk with Mr
Kasson chiefly about our Country. We stayed on the terrace till after
ten, the great round moon looking down upon us with a calm and glorious
light.
After an almost sleepless night on my part we breakfasted at seven
and set off for Turin - a party of five. Mr Kasson returned to his
hotel, Mr Marsh and I went to look over the Villamarina house, and Aleck
and Giacchino went to the Casa dâAngennes. We found the Villamarina
apartment very handsome as Mr Marsh had told me, and I should think it
would prove more convenient than he at first supposed. The Count and
Countess however kept carefully out of the way, and there was no one
left about the house to give us any information. There is evidently a
scheming at the bottom of this management, and I fancy we shall find
them not much more open in their dealings than the Ghirardi. We returned
to the Legation in good humor with the house, and in bad humor with its
owners. At the Legation Alessan and Giacchino met us with their report
from the dâAngennes. Madame told them at first she could not see them,
then being reminded that they came by her own appointment all the way
from Piobesi, she consented to talk with them a moment. She declared
however that she couldnât give us any cellar, that she couldnât even let
us have the soffitta we had before, that she couldnât make out the
contract for some days, that she must take away the clocks etc. etc - in
short they left her with a feeling of âgeneral contemptâ, and a
conviction that if we get the house at all, it must be exactly upon her
own terms. We returned to Piobesi full of the idea that renting a house
in Turin was as formidable a business as the taking of Vicksburg. Mr
Kasson came to see us again in the evening. We had another long talk on
the terrace, in a moonlight by which we could have read distinctly, and
with a temperature one could not wish to change the fraction of a
degree.
The weather has at last become thoroughly summery, a circumstance
which would be very delightful to me if it had not also brought with it
one of Egyptâs worst plagues - the plague of flies. Except in Egypt I
really never have seen them anywhere so well nigh intolerable. Mr Marsh
complains that they interfere so much with his writing that he cannot
accomplish one half as much in the same time as he could in early
Spring. They light on his eyelids, on his inkstand, on the very point of
his pen while it is in motion, in short they are everywhere and on
everything. They devour the water-colours Carrie is using, which would
be a comfort if their numbers were such that the destruction of a few
offered any relief, but their numbers are like the armies in the
Revelation. All this comes from the vilest of Italian customs, having
the stables so near the house. As the heat increases it threatens to
drive us altogether from the terrace, the large flagstones that pave it
becoming so heated during the day that the reflection
The young Brewers arrived at the station of Candiolo a minute too
late for the train, so they came back to the Castle and spent the night
with us. I only wish we could do more for them. Carrie took them to the
tower at four in the morning, and they had something of a view, though
the mountains were hazy.
at night is still very considerable. For two evenings I have seen,
after the swallows, the finches, etc. had disappeared for the night, and
the bats and the beetles and the fire-flies had taken their place, a
huge owl leave the tower and take his slow and solemn flight down
towards some tree in the garden - another fancy of my childhood
realized.
Mr Clay and Mr Kasson came out to dine with us and to spend Sunday.
We hoped for a telegram that should cheer us up a little on this our
National Festa, but none came. The gentlemen however tried to hope
themselves and make us hope that the flag which floated so gaily from
the old tower here was also streaming over Vicksburg. Mr Kasson gave us
a most interesting account of his experiences active and passive
immediately after the Bull Run affair. The evening was delightful in
temperature, and a very curious phenomenon appeared an hour or more
after sunset. A vast cumulous cloud extending from the South.W. toward
the N.E. like an arch almost over our heads, with the billowy edge
turned in the direction where the sun had disappeared, shone with a
dazzling, silvery light almost as powerful as that of the full moon. The
moon however did not rise till about midnight, and this strong light on
the cloud must have come from the sun already so long below the horizon.
Of course the cloud was at an immense height while we were looking
wonderingly at it. The edge furthest from the sun, grew darker, the
lightnings began to play in it, clouds from the south rolled up to meet
it, and very soon the flashes of lightning were so frequent and so
brilliant as almost to blind us. The effect however on the old tower and
on all the objects about us was so striking that we could not make up
our minds to leave the terrace till a pelting rain at last forced us to
exchange it for the hall at the head of the staircase, through the open
arches of which we could look out over the viny balcony into the garden,
and down upon the village.
Our visitors soon after breakfast this morning strayed away by
themselves, each with a volume of Robertsonâs sermons. I had previously
spoken of them to Mr Kasson, and was now surprised to find that Mr Clay
had stumbled upon them last winter while they were left at the Legation,
and really expressed an earnest wish to read them more carefully than he
had been able to do then. I thought as he strolled down into the garden
so quietly with the book in his hand, how different that from my
preconceived idea of the young Kentuckian we were to have for a
secretary. Later Mr Kasson and I had another animated discussion on
private judgment etc, then of the sermon he had been reading, then of
more general matters, and the dinner-hour came so unexpectedly that this
at least could not be called a long and tiresome Sunday. After dinner
came the telegram, but alas, not the one we hoped for - not a word from
Vicksburg, but only that the rebels were prosperously advancing further
and further into Pennsylvania, and were already near Harrisburg. I canât
help asking, since it seems we have no men, where are the women and
children? When such news comes my longing to go home is indescribable.
Not that I have the vanity to suppose Mr Marsh could do more than many
others, but because I am ashamed to be absent at such a time. We might
at least go out into the streets, and cry aloud. We swallowed the
disappointment as well as we could, all trying to cheer each other with
the hope that no news from Vicksburg was good news, and that a thorough
scare wouldnât hurt the copperheads of Pennsylvania, and might possibly
wake up some of our high officials to another spasmodic effort, even
though there might be no chance of ever inspiring them with any steady
energy. In the course of the evening Mr Kasson incidentally spoke of the
old Bourbon, now so much used in America. I thereupon told him the
history of two dozen bottles which we had imported from New York, and
distributed for the most part among acquaintances - that one bottle had
been opened when we first came out to Piobesi but was still sufficiently
well filled to allow me to offer a punch both to himself and Mr Clay.
The proposal was evidently not unacceptable to the two gentlemen, and
the necessaries were soon provided. The old Bourbon was drunk
patriotically, and I fancy neither of them will be f so much annoyed by
the birds tomorrow morning as they were this.
Our two friends, as I expected, slept well, and did not even complain
of headache this morning. They went to town by the 8.30 train, and left
us to go over some chapters of the manuscript positively for the last
time. To make this the more sure we sealed up each division as we went
through it, and at evening had the satisfaction to see one third of the
pile laid aside for good. In the course of the day we received the
contract and inventory from the Dame dâAngennes who is once more in the
melting mood, but I dare say by Wednesday, the day fixed for signing,
she will get up some new crotchet and throw the whole thing into pie
again. Of all diseases I believe that of insanity to be the most widely
spread. The papers this evening are full of a supposed plot at Rome
against the life of the Emperor. Whether this is a reality or a scheme
got up by the party of action in Italy to stir up the Emperor against
the pope, or whether it is a device of the Emperor to serve as an excuse
for something he wants to do, it is impossible to say now, and very
likely the truth may never be known. England is said to be trying to
persuade the mad king of Prussia to resign - no doubt purely from the
disinterested motive of seeing a better man in his place! Greece is in a
state of military insurrection. How far the trouble will go it is
impossible to say. The murder of Radama II of Madagascar is attributed
by the English to French intrigue, I suppose by way of offset to the
French accusations against the English in the matter of the Suez canal.
It isnât hard to believe all each says of the other. The recent
discoveries at Pompeii are of a very interesting character. The Gazzetta
today describes a beautiful little head of Juno in silver, a very
perfect bronze candelabra, and various other choice objects found within
a day or two.
C. and I were alone all day, Mr Marsh being in Turin. We looked over
one chapter of the manuscript, and then betook ourselves to the more
amusing occupation of painting. With my usual imprudence I allowed
Carrie nearly to extinguish her eyes, but fortunately the dressing-hour
came in time to prevent the final catastrophe. Mr Marsh brought Mr
Kasson back with him, and we spent the evening partly in condoling with
each other over fresh Northern disasters, partly in trying to cheer up
Mr Kasson under these and other disappointments by another glass of Old
Bourbon. Among other anecdotes illustrative of Washington in 1862 he
gave us an account of a steamboat excursion got up by the Hon. Mr
Conklin of New York CIty. He states that this gentleman invited him with
some other persons to join him in a trip to McClellanâs head-quarters,
then not far from Richmond - that on going on board he found there were
several ladies in the party, a circumstance he had not anticipated, as
his own wife had not been asked. Mrs Thompson, then wife, now widow of
Senator Thompson of New Jersey, Mrs was the principal guest. Mrs
Gen. Ricketts and some others were also there. I pass over some
extraordinary details to record the most extraordinary. At the camp Mrs
Gen. Ricketts found an officer, a cousin of hers, very ill, and, as she
wished to take him to her house in Washington for nursing, she asked
that he might be brought on board in a litter and so taken to the City.
This the Hon. Mr Conklin refused to permit, though there was no person
on board the boat except this small pleasure-party, and of course there
was an abundance of room. The steamer, too, had been placed at Mr
Conklinâs disposal as a member of the Naval Committee, and therefore his
private claims to such personal control of it were not so strong as they
might have been. Mrs Ricketts, finding Mr Conklin immovable, resolved
herself to leave the boat and remain with the sick officer till some
other means of removing him could be found. Seeing she was determined on
this course, Mrs Thompson interceded with the honorable member from New
York, and finally obtained permission to have the sufferer brought on to
the boat. An application meanwhile was made for another officer who was
severely and dangerously wounded, but had otherwise no disease. This
application Mr Conklin was most resolute in rejecting, and all
persuasion was unavailing. While some of the gentlemen were debating
whether or not to remain on the boat, another steamer with another party
of Congressmen came up, and, to their honour, took the wounded
half-dying man on board with the greatest cheerfulness. I have said - to
their honour, but this is one of those cases of mere common humanity in
which it is a disgrace to be found wanting, but scarcely adds a laurel
to him who meets them like a man.
The ogress of the Casa dâAngennes was all smiles this morning when Mr
Marsh went to her to propose some modifications in the contract. She
consented obligingly to all everything he asked for, and with A. and G.
who remained to look over the furniture she was scarcely less gracious.
Still the contracts, owing to the necessity of making copies etc. are
not yet actually signed, and until this is a fait accompli we shall not
feel sure of the house. I spent as much of the day as I could see use my
eyes, on the manuscript. Carrie had headache and was not worth much to
herself or me.
A note from Mrs Tottenham tells me this morning that she accidentally
met Count Villamarina the evening before at the Browns and that he then
told her had decidedly changed his mind about renting his house, and had
concluded not to do so. This change it seems he felt under no obligation
to communicate to us, except as it came conveniently in his way, even
after he had made us a distinct proposition so tempting that we were
half inclined to give up the dâAngennes negotiations at once. Nor was
this offer made on his part without knowing that we were already in
treaty for the Casa dâAngennes. This only shows the difference between
the modes in which business is carried on in Italy and in America. We
felt that we had incurred a partial obligation to the take Count V.âs
house because we had been to look at it, and professed ourselves
satisfied with it provided we could agree on the terms. In the meantime
the Countess Ghirardi sends us word that we may have the Casa dâAngennes
on the terms we offered last May, and we thought ourselves in honour
bound to notify Count Villamarina at once of this circumstance. In reply
he sends us a precise statement as to the inducements he can offer us to
take his house and promises it on such and such conditions. Then,
without waiting to know what our decision is, in fact before there was
any decision, he alters his mind and doesnât in the least feel obliged
to tell us so, except as he by chance meets a mutual acquaintance. This
change of mind on his part would be a decided relief to us if we were
sure the Countess G. might not even yet change her mind also, and so
leave us in the lurch altogether. We had a fine shower accompanied by
heavy thunder this afternoon.
We worked with new life today preparing the index of authors referred
to in the manuscript. At five oâclock I started up from Mr M.âs
writing-table, where I had been pasting together slips alphabetically
arranged, for two or three hours, exclaiming: âthere the very last thing
is done!â - and looked to Mr Marsh for a similar expression of triumph.
But on the contrary I saw only a look half disappointed, half
apologetic, as he said hesitatingly âno, not quite the last; it has just
occurred to me that I have left out all the authors in __ bookcase.â I
was damped indeed, but it was dinner-time and there was no help for it -
there must be another morningâs labour. We were soon able to laugh over
our petty disappointment, but alas, not so over the long list of
disasters contained in the Daily News - Pennsylvania half overrun by the
rebels, and the miserable Dutchmen thinking only of their money-bags. -
Washington threatened - Milroy defeated for the third time - the New
Jersey governour refusing to aid Pennsylvania - Kirby Smith in
possession of Millikenâs Bend - Banks badly repulsed on the 13th at Port
Hudson, and seriously threatened in the rear - not a single victory
except one gained by some coloured regiments - Lincoln and all his
dough-faced advisors alive, and Admiral Foot dead! In the midst of this
blackness of darkness there was one act stated that called out a Viva!
The governour of Illinois, - the state which has already furnished
30,000 men above her quota - offers to send Governour Curtin 10,000 men
to defend his capital if he wants them. God bless Illinois, and let the
fire and sword of the rebels blast only the copperheads and not the
patriots of Pennsylvania.
While Mr Marsh was in Turin Carrie sat by my bedside and completed
the index of authors which we thought so nearly done yesterday. She
worked steadily from nine till Two two, when the last pasting and
clipping was finished. She then went to her room to paint, - not
herself, but a part of a picture, and I was left to myself and the
flies, the latter of which however Giacchino coaxed off by making my
room dark with a small aperture into the boudoir. I felt better for a
two hours by myself, and when Mr Marsh returned at six, had braced
myself for more bad news - but the telegrams were of no particular
importance, except that Hooker had resigned and Meade taken his place.
Hooker, I dare say, was driven to this by the Presidentâs interference,
though it is possible there may be some other explanation. One thing is
certain; our unluckiest of Presidents has a most remarkable facility of
yielding at once upon the slightest remonstrance every point where he is
in the right, but where he is in the wrong, which is generally the case,
he is the most obstinate, bull-headed mortal in existence. One good
piece of news Mr Marsh did bring - the contract for the Casa dâAngennes
was signed, and he had the document in his pocket.
We were entirely alone today. I spent it in bed, Mr Marsh and Carrie
wrote and read for me and for themselves, and in the evening went to pay
a visit to the Baroness Gautiers. They found friends with her - among
others a military gentleman whose name I forget. He told Mr Marsh that
it was now settled there would be no war till Spring. The Italians were
not yet ready for it, and as to the Poles they must get on as they
could.
This morning the box containing the manuscript was sent down to the
Messagerie, and we are both glad to feel that there can be no more last
things done to it. Mr Marsh was busy nearly all day making out accounts,
trying to bring up his lagging correspondence etc, though he came in to
my room frequently after the Post arrived to give vent to his
indignation over the stupidity of our Washington rulers. The removal of
Hooker, or forced resignation, has roused Mr Marsh more than almost
anything that has occurred, and if the Meade who succeeds him is the
Meade we knew eighteen years ago at Washington I should be glad to hear
that the Army of the Potomac had laid down its arms and gone home, or
that it had risen and refused to obey the mandate from Washington. In
this way some lives might be saved at least - otherwise one can look for
nothing but the slaughter of the Army. Grant is said to have removed
McClerland, and I should rejoice at it if I did not fear that Lincoln
would restore him in the very face of his chief. As to McClerlandâs
military history I have nothing to say, leaving that to those who know
and have followed his [illegible] career, but
that he was a false man in his political life we do know from our own
personal experience, and a man who is base enough to assert a deliberate
falsehood on the floor of Congress in a matter when he could not be
mistaken, is not a man to be trusted with the lives of his fellow men,
and the life of the country. Just before dinner Mr Marsh came in and
read to me a part of one of Priore Lucaâs Veglie. I was glad to turn my
thoughts from our own country to some more cheerful features in the
prospects of this. Two or three little anecdotes struck us very
pleasantly, and as this series by Prior Luca is carefully historical I
have no doubt of their truth. Ricciardi (whose late acceptance of the
title of count has made some stir) was formerly a very decided
republican. When he was first presented to the King, Victor Emmanuel
said to him: âSo you are a republican! Very well, give me your hand!
Help me to make a United Italy and then if she desires to become a
Republic I will not stand in her way.â This is like our King and worthy
of him. Another little circumstance is told of the Kingâs visit to
Florence last April. After he had shot through what was once the Piazza
del Granduca like a flash of lightning and disappeared under the gateway
of the Pitti, the vast multitude that stood before the palace continued
to rend the air with their calls for the King to show himself to them
again upon the balcony which had been decorated in the most magnificent
manner for that purpose. At last he did show himself, but not there. He
threw open a plain window and stood there like a true man in the
presence of the countless multitude. The effect was somewhat unexpected.
Instead of renewed thunders of applause a breathless silence followed,
[illegible][illegible]
- and every head was bared in an instant. âTears flowed like rain,â says
Prior Luca. âIt was one of the grandest moments I have witnessed in all
this grand period of Italian history.â The same Veglia contains a little
anecdote of Savagniola which pleased me as eminently Italian. Some one
said to the Dr. while he was Minister: âPeople say that you make a great
many bad blunders.â âYes I doâ said the humorous and good-natured
Tuscan, âbut tell those people they would make a great many more if they
were in my place.â There is also another anecdote of the King worth
recording. After one of the great battles an officer of the Royal Staff
with remonstrated with the King for having exposed himself so
recklessly. The King replied : âAvete ragione. Ho fatto male. Vir altra
volta - - farĂČ peggio.â In the course of the evening Carrie was speaking
of a young English girl she had met at the Tottenhams - Udea Onslow!
This name struck me so oddly that I begged her to spell it for me which
she did, and then told me its history. The god-father of the girl was in
the habit of calling his wife you dear instead of the my dear which is
so common. About the time of the birth of this girl, this gentleman lost
his wife, and when invited to stand as god-father to this child by its
friend, he made it a condition that the child be named Udea - a disguise
for you dear, and on the tombstone for his wife the same word was
engraved. Let New England eccentricity and ingenuity match that!
Mr Marsh brought from Turin American papers to the 30th. I think I
have not seen him in a state of such fierce indignation since the
commencement of the war. For months he has been crying out - what can
they be doing in Washington that that they are making no preparation to
fill up the wasting Army when they know from the lessons of the last two
years that Lee will be down upon them before mid-summer. - The blow has
come just as any child of common sense must have foreseen it would come
- At such a crisis too Hooker is driven from his command, and a new
officer put in his place. May the German proverb prove true in this
case: âTo whom God gives an office he gives wisdom.â In the case of
chief-magistrate at least it has failed.
This evening we had a telegram announcing a great battle near
Gettysburg. The report is confused, but would lead me to think that the
battle, though not very decisive, had been rather in favour of the
Northern troops. The two lines from Meade speak of severe losses - many
officers killed etc., but say that the enemy had not renewed the attack.
President Lincoln is said to have reported great successes but we shall
really know nothing about it for some days to come. I was so nervous
through the whole day in anticipation of some great news this evening
that I could scarcely confine my attention to Mr Marshâs reading - much
as I was interested in the subject. We went on with the review of
Arrivabene, and, indeed, finished it. Whatever may be the drift of
Arrivabeneâs book, that of his reviewer evidently is to show that
Napoleon III had no fixed policy - that his one sole aim is personal
ambition, and as to the means of obtaining this end he allows himself to
be guided by the passing events of the day - steering his bark only with
reference to the winds and currents of the hour.
We passed our day as usual in reading, writing, drawing etc. I was
disappointed not to see E. Larned at one oâclock, and to receive from
him a letter instead saying that he was suffering from a boil in Milan,
could not come for a day or two, and might perhaps not be able to come
at all. He adds a groan, and a deep one, at the state of things at home.
A letter from Mrs Valerio, nervous and semi-destraught as usual gives an
anecdote from Mrs Child of poor Mrs Dwight when the body of her murdered
son was brought home to her. This is the second of her boys that has
fallen in this terrible war and her two remaining ones are now in the
field. âOh,â said she, âI can bear even this, I can bear everything but
a compromise.â The Baroness Gautiers spent the evening with us, and as
usual talked much of the American War. She understands the question, and
always expresses the utmost astonishment that in civilized Europe the
South can find one friend. This lady is a Piedmontese certainly but she
has all the characteristics of the more southern Italians, - dark hair -
dark eyes, sometimes flashing fire, sometimes soft and marvellously
pathetic, with all that mobility of expression in her features which we
always attribute to the children of the South. In her movements there is
that inexpressible grace which I have so often marked among the
Piedmontese ladies, and which may perhaps exist among other Italian
women, but I am not sufficiently familiar with the higher circles of the
more southern cities, to say whether it is found there or not. She told
us a sad story of the poor Marquise St. Germain. Her sister is the wife
of the Marquis Riscalli of Milan. Ten days ago the Marquis had an
altercation with his son, in the course of which the one or the other
became so much excited as to draw a revolver, and a ball passed through
the body of the young man, just missing the heart. The Marchesa San
Germano hurried on instantly to Milan on receiving the news. She was met
by a friend at the station who begged her not to go to her sister as it
would greatly alarm her about her son etc if she thought friends had
been sent for to Turin, and advised her to return home at once. This the
Marchesa S.G. positively refused to do, saying she would go to a hotel
and her sister might be gradually prepared for her visit. Finding her
immovable the friend told her that there was news of the illness of her
son at St. Petersburg, and by degrees gave her to understand that a
telegram had been received to say that this son was thought to be dying,
and requesting the Marchese and herself to hurry to St. Petersburg as
fast as possible. The poor lady rushed back to Turin without seeing her
sister, and started immediately with her husband for Russia. The father
gave out before the end of the journey, and the mother, invalid as she
is, was obliged to go on alone. Through a kind Providence she found her
son still living, and it is thought he may recover. Young Riscalli too,
it is hoped, may survive. The arrest of the brigands at Genoa continues
to occupy the Press and the Public. The Diritto in speaking of it took
occasion to write a most severe article against the Emperor and
especially against the Empress who, it asserted, spent the interval
between her hours of social dissipation in praying for the Pope and the
Bourbons. The edition was suppressed of course.
Mr Larned and his son came out to us at six. I was very glad to see
them and especially to see the father looking better than I had
expected. A few questions about the lame leg that had kept him two days
from us, a few words about home-friends, and then came the
all-engrossing subject - the war - And how could we talk of anything
else when any hour might bring us news that according to human judgment
must decide the fate of the Republic. We dined, and then waited for the
evening paper in trembling. It came but brought no news. Till And
bed-time we talked on, Mr Larned telling some things of his own personal
knowledge which we had not already learned before, but all tending to
confirm us in our judgment of the utter unfitness of the good-natured,
honest, feeble, President for his place - of the faithless Seward for
his - in fact of the general imbecility of the Cabinet, With with the
exception of Mr Chase, who declares himself that beyond the duties of
his immediate office as Secretary of the Treasury he has not the
slightest influence, and that he remains there merely because he hopes
to be useful to the Country in a financial way. Of McClellan he thinks
precisely as we do, or rather worse. I was very glad to find that Mr
Larned had had his eyes open while in Rome and Florence, that he had not
been induced to believe that the Pope was a most benevolent, wise, and
paternal ruler, nor that the Florentines and the Italians generally
wished to break up again. He was acute enough to see through Banker
Hooker, and some others who are as hostile to liberty abroad as at home.
I should think from what he says that Dr Butler was just in his place at
Rome. He will keep a vast number of unwary Americans out of the snare,
and he will be a good counsellor to many a tempest-tost Roman. The
Goulds, too, have so far kept themselves free from any blinding
influences.
We began this morning where we left off last night. The interests of
nations, not of individuals, must in times like these become the topics
even of household conversation. It was time for Gaetano to return with
the Post - one oâclock - and we were still talking of Meade and Lee and
what the paper might bring. But again there was no telegram, and he was
obliged to leave us at half past two to join his party in Milan. After
he had gone I really felt distressed to remember how little I had been
able to talk to him of home-friends, that I had not even asked after his
sisters Ellen and Anna, that in fact, all of our friends had been half
pushed aside by these overwhelming political events. I had a bad
headache which made me fear for the effect the exciting conversation
must have had upon Edwin in his weak state. Mr Marsh, too, was nervous
and agitated, but perhaps we shall all feel better tomorrow for having
opened the safety-valve. Even the Gazzetta tonight brought no telegram
and we must now wait till tomorrow. It is dreadful to have heard from
home of a great battle still unfinished and to be obliged to wait almost
a week for before knowing to whose lot the victory has fallen. It turns
out that the Italians have a treaty with France according to which the
arrest of the five brigands the other day was illegal, and they must
therefore be given up. We hope when they do this they will instantly
reclaim them, not as political offenders but as thieves and murderers
already convicted but escaped from justice.
We were to have set off to-day for a weekâs excursion in the Vaudois
vallies, but a communication from the Foreign Office made it necessary
for him to go to Turin instead. At one P.M. he returned with the joyful
news of the fall of Vicksburg and the defeat of Lee in Pennsylvania. We
did rejoice, but in the midst of the liveliest gratitude what a pang to
think of the thousands of lives these victories have cost - of the
families now in anguish and desolation! I can not think so great
political crime was ever before committed, as that which the authors of
this rebellion have been guilty of. Alex__ who learned the good news in
Turin said while waiting at dinner âWe ought to have a festa for this
telegramâ and his remark suggested to me the idea of giving the servants
a treat in the evening. Accordingly I ordered eggs, cream, sugar &
Old Rum to be brought to me on the terrace. As we stepped out there we
were pleased to see the dear old flag flying gayily from the top of the
tower - doubly pleased because it was a proof of the sympathy of our
servants in our own interests, they having received no orders to raise
it. While I was busy with the egg-nogg which was to make glad the hearts
of the lower house, a sudden hiss followed by a whizzing sound full of
4th July memories brought me at once to my feet. I look up - a beautiful
rocket was describing the most graceful of curves, then dropped a shower
of red blue & white stars down on the meadow below our grounds. And
a row of lamps, red blue & white formed [illegible] a shining band around the top of the old
tower, producing an admirable effect. All this had been got up by the
servants entirely on their own account, and to give us a pleasant
surprise. Nor were the good villagers behind in testifying their
sympathy. The Home Guards of Piobesi mustered out their Band which was
soon installed in the garden, the little children shouting with all
their might, la musica! la musica! This took Alexander even by surprise
and he was not a little troubled at first for fear we might be
displeased by the proportions the festa was assuming. He assured us he
had not given the least hint to the band to come, and he did not know
how they had learned the good news - that he would not have taken the
liberty for the world etc. etc. We had made no preparations to entertain
so many angels, but half a dozen bottles of wine answered to quench
their thirst, and a few francs did for the rest. It was really
gratifying to see the interest these poor people took in the brightening
prospects of our country - a land where, they have been told, all the
poor are free and happy except the black slaves, and they are to be as
well off as the rest when this dreadful war is over. The music was
really very respectable, and the rockets blazed at intervals till ten
oâclock. The whole effect was very pretty - the band formed a most
picturesque group in the garden, all the more striking because there was
no moon and no lights about the garden except those which shone from the
tower and those used by the musicians themselves. In fact I doubt
whether we could have got up anything prettier if we had had a week to
prepare it. We were so sorry that home-friends could not see it, and
particularly that Mr Larned and Walter could not have stayed one night
longer. We dismissed the Band at half past ten, and hurried to bed
knowing that I we must rise at four for our Pignerol excursion.
Our three gigs arrived at Candiolo soon after six in ample time for
the first Pinerolo train, and we reached this town without any
remarkable adventure a little after seven. At eight we were on our way
toward La Tour in a small but tolerably comfortable carriage, and a Jehn
who brought us up in an hour and a half. The country is very pretty, as
we knew beforehand, but nearly half the Indian corn and the vines
between Pignerol and La Tour has been destroyed this year by hail. âTwas
a mournful sight to see nothing but the stalks and half-grown ears of
Indian corn left - on the vines neither leaf nor fruit, and the
mulberry-trees were almost as bare. But the oaks, the walnuts and the
forest trees generally have scarcely suffered at all. We were
disappointed somewhat at the aspect of things at the principal hotel at
La Tour, LâOrsa, and Alex__ intimated as much to our hostess. âAh,
Monsieur, il ne faut pas attender grande chose dans notre petitie
maison, mais tout est bien propre - il nây a pas de bĂȘtes.â This was
consoling. Every thing did look very neat, and I felt in good spirits.
An hourâs experience however has taught me that a certain very teasing
tormenting little creature does not come under the classification of
bĂȘte in the natural History of La Tour. On making inquiries we found the
chief guide was absent on an excursion with some travellers - Guide No 2
was also not to be found, and we shall have to sit down as Sotire used
to say, for the rest of the day. We have examined the royal family tree,
the portraits of Marie Pie and her royal husband, a full length
lithograph of Gen. Beckwith, and a sketch of the Vaudois history, all of
which are in our sitting-room - then we betook ourselves to the bedroom
where are four old coloured lithographs of poor Marie Stuart in the
closing scenes of her life. This finishes the ressources of the house -
we must now go to our own carpet-bags - After dinner and tea the guide
made his appearance, does not think well of the weather and recommends
that our first excursion be up the Valley dâAngrogna as far as PrĂš du
Tour. This he says can as well be seen when there is some fog as at any
other time, but for the Col de Traversette t or any other high mountain
view, it would be time and money thrown away to attempt it while such
masses of vapour are hanging over and enveloping every peak. This is
certainly disinterested advice on his part and we shall take it.
The weather this morning being still very misty and Mr Marsh being
very tired we concluded to do nothing more than to drive down to
Luserna, and to wait for the arrival of the saddle if not for better
weather before setting off for CrissĂČlo and the Traversette. The
expedition to Luserna did not prove a brilliant success. The carriage
was wretchedly uncomfortable, the road almost intolerable The latter is
new, and composed of large pebbles with a sparing mixture of earth. The
little village of Luserna stands on a hill which commands a very lovely
view of the ridges opposite and the valley below. The road that leads to
it branches off from the highway between Pinerolo & La Torre, and
consists of a viaduct and a brig bridge of very expensive construction.
The villa of the Della Roccas was shown us - new but of modest
dimensions, and with little to admire about it except its fine position.
We were glad to get back to our hotel without shipwreck and with our
curiosity fully satisfied as to what was meant by a scorratta, we having
been puzzled by a sign opposite our windows - âQui si affittano cavalli
e scorratte.
Gaetano brought up the saddle last night, and this morning the guide
came soon after 4 four to settle how and where we would go. Our object
was to get to CrissĂČlo, and Murray recommends the pass of the Sea Bianca
to such travellers as do not choose to go around through Barge and
Paesana. Our guide however, who had told us the day before that one
could go over the mountain to Crissolo in six hours, argued stoutly in
favour of the pass of the Gianna which he said would take longer and
admitted that it would be difficult to ride all the way. Mr Marsh told
him we could not go anywhere where I should be obliged to dismount as I
could only walk a very few rods, and therefore declined to go by the
Gianna. There was a great deal of delay in getting our beasts in order,
and the more we talked with the guide the more we were satisfied that he
knew very little about the passes from the valley to the Pellise to the
PĂČ. At last he brought a man whom he said knew the way as he knew his
own fingers, and proposed that he should be one of our attendants. At
twenty minutes before six we were on our way for the Sea Bianca as we
supposed. Our route took us first in the direction of Bobbio, but a
little this side of the town we struck off to the left and began to
ascend rapidly. Mr Marsh rode for about an hour and then walked, or
rather climbed steadily for several more. A peasant we met asked our
guide where he was going -âover the Giannaâ was the answer. I
communicated this to my husband as soon as I had an opportunity to speak
to him. He was surprised but said that was probably a general name for
the ridge, as he could hardly believe the guide would venture to take
him where he had said positively he would not go. On the next green Alp
alp we stopped at a little chĂąlet to feed the donkeys and rest
ourselves. We sat down under the shade of a stone wall on our piles of
shawls with five monster pigs just before us which we could not drive
away even by pelting them with stones. The old granâther of the chĂąlet
came out to offer us its hospitality, and we enquired of him about the
Sea Bianca the Gianna &c. He told us the former, which was the more
direct route to Crissolo, was now utterly impassable, partly from
disuse, partly from the snow and ice with which it was still encumbered.
The Gianna he thought we might pass but said it was three hours more to
the top. Three hours more, and we were already very tired, having been
climbing for nearly five. We then asked him how long it would take us to
go down to Crissolo from the summit. An hour and a half or two hours,
was the answer. We were in for it and there was nothing left but to go
on. I was extremely uneasy about Mr Marsh as he seemed very tired, and I
knew that while it was impossible for him to ride a little donkey up the
steep paths we were climbing it would be no less impossible to ride down
on the other side. The man who knew the way as well as his own fingers
was evidently little better informed than our first guide, and they were
frequently at a loss where to go. At four oâclock the one who was
scrambling up foremost cried out: VoilĂ le coquin! A moment more and we
all stood by his side with Monte Viso before us scarce three miles off
and almost entirely unobstructed from base to summit. It was a most
magnificent sight, and tired as we were, and anxious and vexed, we
forgot everything in that glorious view. Of course Monte Viso was the
centre of attraction, but the Visottolo on th its right and another
grand peak on the left, the name of which I forget, each supported by
other and scarce less lofty crests, rising like a wall as far as we
could see made up a picture in some respects not inferior to the finest
we have ever seen in the Alps; but a very violent and cutting wind
together with the lateness of the hour forced us to hurry on. Again we
asked how long before we should reach Crissolo. âWe can go down in about
four hoursâ was the startling reply. âFour hours! Why it it half past
four now, and you told us it would be only six hours to make the whole
pass after we struck off from Bobbio!â The guide looked confused, said
he did not think it would take so long, &c. &c. Mr Marsh then
asked him if we should not reach some chĂąlets before coming to Crissolo
where we could pass the night. âOh yes, we shall find chĂąlets, but -â
There was a pause here which was as much as to say [illegible] whether you can spend the night in them or
not is another thing. There was no time to be lost in discussion or
scolding, and we began a downward movement as rapidly as possible. I
kept on my beast for some time though the poor creature had the utmost
difficulty in keeping his legs even with the help of one guide at his
tail and another at his head. An old shephard shepherd now joined us,
inquired if we had made buon viaggio and then told us that a little
further on the path was all washed away and it would be impossible to
ride. In the meantime our guides had given abundant evidence that they
did not in the least know how to find their way down, and after a
moments talk with them the kind old shepherd volunteered to show the
track. We were standing on a crest so steep that it seemed impossible to
descend it without the help of wings. I was lifted from my saddle, and
just then saw Carrie, who had sprung off and taken her donkey by the
bridle, sliding down together with the poor beast, whose four feet were
sprawled out with desperate determination, but they neither she nor her
donkey [illegible] seemed to have the slightest
control over their own direction, but were entirely at the mercy of mere
gravitation. Mr Marsh had braced himself against his Alpenstock and
stretched out his hand to me, but my knees were so stiffened by the nine
hours I had been in the saddle that I found it impossible to stand. How
I got to the bottom of this really frightful declivity I dont know, but
it was somehow or other on my hands and knees. I was so anxious for fear
of some accident to Mr Marsh or Carrie that I really could not think of
anything else and the men had as much as they could do to keep the poor
animals from slipping off and being dashed to pieces. This was the worst
part of the descent. The rest though steep and rough could scarcely be
called dangerous, and our spirits were in a measure kept up by the
majestic scenery that surrounded us. After about two hours and a half we
came to a little chĂąlet. I was fearfully tired and I dare say Carrie was
so too though she made no complaint, and Mr Marsh declared he could go
no farther. We had now been twelve hours and a half on the road with
nothing but a bit of bread and cheese and small ones at that. We asked
if they could give us a place to sleep and some polenta and eggs to eat.
This request caused a commotion in the little hamlet. There was no small
hurrying to and fro, and a great amount of earnest consultation. At last
we were led to a place declared to be the cleanest in the village, if
village it could be called. Mr Marsh and Carrie went in to see what the
prospect was. A large, low, black room, without window or chimney, but
with a great fire at one end, the smoke of which passed partly through
the tiles, the rest remaining in the room. They came out declaring it
would be impossible to stay there on account of the smoke. I suggested
that the fire might be put put out - but then how could we get our
polenta or our boiled eggs? Was there no other place to sleep? &c
&c. In the meantime husband had recovered his breath a little, and
this circumstance added to the dismal prospect here, and the flattering
assurance that Crissolo was only an hour off, induced us to try and push
on. Oh, how long was that hour! Mr Marsh was so thoroughly foot-sore and
out of breath that I really feared he would be obliged to give up
entirely, but he did not dare to attempt riding on a donkey down such
rapid descents, and there was nothing left but to use his own strength
as far as it would carry him. We did reach Crissolo between eight and
nine - weary, wo-begone mortals that we were. Carrie was already at the
door of the Albergo del Gallo when we came up. What an Albergo! One
small room and a kitchen was all we could see. We threw ourselves into
some wooden chairs that stood in the room that was not the kitchen and
put our handkerchiefs to our faces for respirators to strain off [illegible] the odour of garlic. The mistress came,
promised us beds and a supper, and I begged her to show us our chambers
as soon as they were ready. A boy of fourteen soon made his appearance
with a light and proposed to take us to them. Stipulating with the Mamma
that there should be neither garlic nor onions in her cookery, we left
her to prepare the polenta and the polastri after her own fashion and
followed the boy. He took us across the road to what seemed to be a kind
of hay-loft, but in the it were two rooms intended for christians, not
cattle. Into one of these we were introduced, and found three not
uncomfortable-looking beds, very clean and the air of the room was fresh
and pure. We then asked for the other room but our boy declared that the
other room was occupied by a gentleman, that we were only three and here
were three beds - and besides this was all they could do for us. This
last was a settler and we decided at once to take the three beds and be
thankful. It was a long time to supper, but it came at last and was not
bad. The room had been aired, the smell of garlic had disappeared and
was replaced by the fragrance of tea from our smoking etna. One thing
however was quickly settled. We were all too tired to think of the
Traversette tomorrow. Mr Marsh paid our guides and dismissed them
finding he could get others here. There being no ladiesâ saddles however
the La Torreau left us his on condition that we take it back to him on
our return.
At half past nine this morning we sat down to our modest but not
unpalatable breakfast in the dining room of the Gallo. While waiting for
it we had amused ourselves not a little with the image of a cock that
graced the sign over the door. The tail-feathers especially were in the
most flagrant style of the art of sign painting, and must have been
drawn from the artistâs ideal of a phenix, or of some other impossible
bird. It was really very funny, Having disposed of our trout and
potatoes we requested our boy, who proved to be truly a great boy in the
western sense, to have our room put in order at once that we might
stretch our bruised limbs at full length again as soon as possible. Mr
Marsh was asleep in five minutes after he had thrown himself upon his
bed. Carrie pillowed herself up and took the Vita di Pio Nono for
amusement, but I disposed myself to follow my good husbandâs example. A
low whispering and buzzing of voices at one of the windows startled me
from my incipient nap and I called out âChi Ăš lĂ ?â in a tone which Mr
Marsh characterized as a yell, Carrie rushed to the window, and found
some children on a ladder which they had raised to the window and on the
top rounds of which they were standing to enjoy the sight of the
wonderful strangers. They fled hastily at her approach and were rebuked
by the old folks below who took away the ladder and sent the children
home. We had no other disturbance except from the noise of persons
pitching hay into the loft over our heads. Trout and potatoes again made
us a good dinner which was helped by some very respectable soup. This
hot dish our boy was surprised to find we wished to eat first, it being
the Piedmontese fashion among all classes to take it in the middle of
the dinner. The next thing was to settle with the guide for tomorrow.
His account of the Col de la Traversette made it look rather formidable,
but we made up our minds to go as far as we could reasonably and then
give up reaching the gallery if necessary, and on this conclusion went
to bed.
We were off this morning soon after five Mr Marsh and Carrie each
having a mule and I being furnished with a donkey. Mr Marsh soon found
that riding on the sort of pack-saddle provided for him and which was
all the place afforded, was quite out of the question, partly from its
enormous width, partly from the difficulty of keeping his seat when the
animal stumbled or made an irregular step, so after an hour or a little
more he took to his feet for the rest of the day. Carrie walked for two
hours and then mounted her mule. Everything went on very well and we
reached the Piano del Re in less than three hours from Crissolo. Here a
spring gushes through the hills from a lake above, and is known as the
sorgente del PĂČ, although there are fifty other sources higher up and
far more deserving the name. It is a charming spot however, the verdure
lovely, and the water deliciously cold and refreshing. Here the guides
showed us where the King and the Princes had rested, the rocks on which
they ate their polenta, &c &c. The King, they said, had not been
higher than the lakes, but the Princes came over the Gianna. According
to Carrieâs guide however the Royal Party went up to the Traversette.
This sorgente del PĂČ is the extreme limit of Italian adventure in these
parts. Many m Milanese families they told us came so far, but none but
English or the people of the valley ever crossed the Traversette or the
Gianna. All our attendants were greatly astonished at Carrieâs prowess.
âUna damigella, e cosi giovinetta, avere tanto coraggio! - - Scometto
non aurĂ piĂč di quindice anni, e parla la nostra lingua assai meglio di
noi poveracci!â Mr Marsh climbed with more ease than he had done on
Friday and we reached the delicious spring a few hundred feet below the
Buca without any extraordinary fatigue. I was more surprised at what I
had done myself than at the endurance of the others, for I had felt so
ill during the night before that I had scarcely slept at all, and
nothing but the immense gratification Mr Marsh finds in these
expeditions (which he will not make without me) would have induced me to
venture on such an undertaking. But we made some tea at the spring, eat
our bread and cheese, and were ready to set out again with new courage,
of which we had good need before we reached the top. As it was
impossible for me to ride further the men took off my saddle, fastened
it firmly to two poles, & on this they were to carry me if possible
up to the gallery. For the first few feet it went very well, but then
the snow (for we had been in the snow more or less for the last hour)
lay so steep that it was impossible for the men who held the poles to
keep anything like a sure foothold. One would slip and nearly through
[throw] me backwards, another and I was actually
thrown out forwards. When I was reseated all four slipped together, and
we lost as much ground as we had gained in a quarter of an hour
previous. In the meantime my posture was almost intolerable, and finally
I was obliged to admit that I could go no further in that way. In fact
the men were utterly unable to get up themselves and carry a burthen
besides. I sat down on a rock, looked at the opening of the gallery some
three hundred feet above me, and felt for the first time on any of these
excursions, that I had undertaken what I could not accomplish. One of
the men then offered to take me on his shoulders. I remembered my
successful experiment in this way on making the last part of the ascent
of Horeb, but when I looked at the slender Piedmontese before me and
recalled to mind the stalwart Arab who carried me on that occasion I
thought it would be more than the poor man could possibly do. There was
only one way left. A man took me by the arm on each side of me, and
going a little before me nearly pulled me up without much exertion of my
own; and at last we stood before the mouth of the gallery. So unprepared
was I for such an experience as this that I was provided with only thin
summer boots - a poor protection against [illegible] knee deep snow. After a momentâs rest
Carrie disappeared in the midnight of the gallery. One or two of our
guides went with her, but it was so long before any of them returned
that Mr Marsh and I became a little anxious. At last we heard their
clear shouts and supposed they were safe in France, which was the fact.
Leaving C. the men returned and I prepared to follow her with them, but
I had formed no idea of the difficulties of the way. We began to ascend
an inclined plane of ice which rose till our heads touched the roof of
the arch, then the ice and snow became very unequal and we kept our
footing with the greatest difficulty. We had not a ray of light and the
warnings of the guides a dritta! a dritta! a sinistra! capo basso, capo
basso! were quite enough to make us feel a little nervous. Murray gives
the length of this gallery at 250 or 300 feet, but I think he must have
passed it when it was free from snow and ice. To me it seemed a quarter
of a mile. Daylight appeared at last, and a Viva la Francia! greeted the
scene below us, which however by no means compares in beauty with the
view from the Italian side. Nor could we stay long to enjoy even what
there was to be enjoyed. The wind was piercingly cold and blowing
violently from that side, and through the gallery though on the Italian
side we had left a pleasant summer temperature. The return proved even
more difficult than the first passage. My guides both slipped - one
sliding off to a considerable distance, while the other was, I flatter
myself, saved from a fall by the sharp wooden heels on my fancy boots.
Poor Carrie supposing that it was I who had slid off came rushing after
me with a momentum far greater than she intended, but I am fortunately
so firmly fixed by my heels in the softening ice that the collision did
not upset me, and she did not actually fall. After sundry more knocks
against the projecting stones of the roof we came out safe on the
southern side, and were glad enough to get back to Italy and warm
weather. Here we spent a half hour in delightful enjoyment of the view
before us. The mists had been playing strange antics all day - sometimes
disappearing altogether - then capping the mountain-peaks, or rolling up
the valley, or half hiding the plain. Now they were more beautiful than
ever. Monte Viso, sometimes or rather that part of the chain visible
from this point, was sometimes almost entirely covered, then again
perfectly clear, but almost before we had time to exclaim âhow distinct
it is now!â the boiling, curling vapours would shoot up in the most
fantastic forms from below, and with the swiftness of steam from a
steampipe, and in a minute all was covered again. Sometimes we could see
the plain quite well but generally it was somewhat obscured, I am by no
means sure that such mists as these today are on the whole an injury to
mountain views. While we were coming up and Monte Viso was standing
before us in such majesty it was wonderful to see how he seemed to wrap
the vapoury mantle about him, throwing it now over this shoulder, now
over that, now winding it about his head like a lordly turban, now
casting it all off in haughty scorn. And then the apparent height of the
mountains is always greater when these flying mists are playing about
them. We could not stay as long as we wished as the descent was likely
to prove a long and troublesome affair. Various plans were proposed to
get me safely down over the snow, but at last it was settled that I
should once more try the saddle, two ends of the poles were to rest on
the snow, the other two raised by the guides who were to go before, a
cord was fastened to the whole apparatus, and a bright little fellow who
came through the Traversette from the French side while we were there,
was to hold the cord behind, and in this way act as a break. The plan
looked specious - I took my seat and was soon sliding down the steep
slope with something very like railroad speed. The two men who held the
poles were sliding, the two men at my side were sliding, so was the
youngster who held the cord. âIl vapore, il vaporeâ! shouted the guides
in great glee, and a more exciting sleigh-ride I never had. But it was a
very short one. Five minutes, or rather much less, was sufficient to
pass over the ground which it had taken us an hour to ascend. Carrie and
Mr Marsh made a somewhat similar voyage but entirely on their own
responsibility, I having nearly all the men with me. âEcco madamigella!
che va sunza il babbo!â exclaimed one of them as he saw C. sailing away
alone down the glittering slope. As soon as we came to a point where it
was possible to ride I relieved the guides of their burthen and got upon
my donkey. The rest continued to walk. The descent was rather steep most
of the way, but we met with no accident and arrived safely at the Gallo
in Crissolo not far from six. Both Mr Marsh and Carrie had walked nearly
the whole of the day, and the former when dinner was over and he had
thrown himself on his bed, exclaimed with most amusing naĂŻvety: âI wish
somebody would tell me candidly whether I am really an old fool or not
to tire myself in this way.â
We should have slept soundly from fatigue last night but from the
most untractable of straw beds, made in the form of a house-roof and put
under a thin [illegible] mattress. Mr Marsh said
he was more tired when he rose than when he went to bed. We took
carriages direct for Piobesi, and reached the Castello about two without
misadventure, and having as fine a day as is possible to imagine. The
most striking object we saw on our way this morning was a church-tower
at Bricherasio. I could not have been made to believe short of the
evidence of my own eyes that such a monstrous thing was to be found in
all Italy. It would be idle to attempt to describe it, but if drawing or
a photograph of it can be found I am determined to possess myself of it.
We were rather surprised to find that all these provincial roads were
wet every day at this season in order to keep down the dust. A stream
used for irrigation is turned of temporarily into a small channel by the
roadside, and then men standing by this current with an implement half
shovel half pail, they throw the water entirely across the road. This is
certainly a great comfort to travellers. An odd conceit too in the way
of beds attracted my notice on this journey. In houses of any pretention
a spread is laid over the mattress, and in the top of this spread a
bolster is basted in, in such a way that without anything else the bed
has the air of being neatly dressed for an occupant. When the bed is
actually to be used the sheets, pillows and other covering are laid over
this first counterpane which serves the double purpose of protecting the
mattress, and giving the bed a neat appearance when the sheets are
removed. Carlo and Susanne were all right and glad to see us and it was
a real joy to get back to home and a bath.
Mr Marsh went to Turin early this morning and brought American news
to the eighteenth - everything most satisfactory except the New York
riots, and even out of these I hope much good may come, especially a
determination on the part of our better citizens that Fernando Wood and
his Irish gang shall be put down cost what it may. I looked over papers,
and we talked and rejoiced over the good news till my head was really
giddy, and I was glad when night came with its calm and rest.
It was pleasant to resume our habitual occupations once more, but it
is not easy to take up everything just where one left off and with the
same interest as before even after only eight days of interruption. We
were all a little heavy and a little lazy, but perhaps accomplished so
much as to get ourselves fairly into the old track.
Carrie went to Turin this morning with Giacchino to engage the eldest
Miss Tottenham to come and spend next week with us. She found the whole
family occupied with a very different engagement which the young lady
has just made, and which seems to give satisfaction to all parties. I am
very glad for many reasons, as Miss Tottenham evidently possesses none
of those qualities of independence and none of powers of initiative
effort that would make her useful and happy were she to live and an
unmarried life. It must be a great gratification to her parents that she
marries an Englishman and is to go âhomeâ. Mr Marsh and I spent a large
part of the day in reading together, dividing the time between Buckleâs
History of Civilization and Bonnemereâs Histoire du Paysan. As to the
first book, it is not fair to form a judgment after reading only a
hundred pages, and I have no doubt we shall find much in the book to
admire, but as I was struck in the first few pages by the great mistakes
made in his statements with regard to religious dogmas and doctrines, so
today was I even more struck by the historical distortions by which he
endeavors to sustain a preconceived theory. Perhaps distortions is not
the word I should have used, because I do not see any evidence that the
author wishes to be otherwise than candid, but he has adopted a theory
and then looked about for facts to sustain it, found here and there
something that seemed favourable, and utterly overlooked a far larger
amount of testimony that would go entirely against him. On the whole, if
I were forced to judge the man after this little acquaintance with him,
I should say that he was destitute of imagination and not particularly
strong in his logic, that he was learned, without being in the least
wise, that is, without having assimilated his knowledge, that his sense
of right and justice was acute, that his instincts in short were far
nobler than his cold and slavish creed. Bonnemereâs book delights me
beyond measure, and I wish I could see it in English. I cannot help
thinking it would do good. I went to bed and to sleep under the soothing
influence of a hand-organ which was playing under my balcony where
some-half dozen couples of little folks were merrily dancing in
anticipation of the festa tomorrow and Sunday - the grand festa in
honour of the patroness Santa Anna.
Before I was dressed this morning the widowed mother of the nine
children sent me in some bunches of very nice-looking grapes. Of course
I understood this, and was glad to have an opportunity to furnish her
and her family with a good meat-dinner in exchange for her gift, and
this cleared up a difficulty under which we had been labouring as to
what we could best do for these poor villagers on this occasion. We did
not wish to give money to adorn their saint, nor to make her procession
splendid, and mere fireworks and illuminations seem too much like money
thrown away when they had so many needs. So we settled to order the
butcher to furnish meat today to such poor families in the village as
could not afford to buy it. The butcher being syndic and apparently an
honest man I think we can trust him. At any rate if he cheats us one
half the poor will get something and of course we cannot know how to
distribute these charities ourselves. As to beggary I have never seen
less in my life than here in PiĂČbesi. Mr Stillman came out by the
noon-day train. We were very glad to see him and to have an opportunity
of talking over American interests at Rome. His indignation against
banker Hooker would be almost amusing if it were not so well grounded.
The open advocacy of the cause of the secessionists by this man became
too notorious even for Mr Blatchford who himself was able to swallow the
camel to the extent of inviting to his house the noisiest defenders of
the rebellion. He told Mr Hooker finally that he must be more prudent or
he should be obliged to dissolve his connection with the Legation. This
remonstrance made him more careful in Mr Blatchfordâs presence but the
recent national victories alone really induced him to be less a rebel.
The vexations Mr Stillman has endured from the unwillingness of American
travellers to pay the three dollars exacted by our government for a new
passport and intended to force such American citizens as were abroad to
contribute in a small way to the expenses of the war are something
really humiliating to listen to. Even Miss Charlotte Cushman with all
her great wealth flies into a passion on being told the new regulation,
and when at last obliged to accede to it she refuses absolutely to get a
separate passport for her friend Miss Stevvins and manages to have her
leave Rome without one by the help of the police. And Miss Charlotte
Cushman is the mistress of more than three hundred thousand dollars! Of
the Americans at Rome generally, with the exception of Dr Butler and a
few others, Mr Stillman says that the only signs of interest that even
Northerners have shown in this terrible struggle has been in the rates
of exchange. According to these they made themselves merry, gave
charade-parties, &c. or they kept quiet and spent little, but never
did he hear a word of sympathy for those who were suffering at home, of
anxiety as to the result from any other than a mere personal point of
view, or any plan of doing something themselves to help the great cause.
Mr Stillman feels intensely and much allowance must be made for his
artist temperament, but I can readily believe there is much truth in
what he says, and if he were in New York or Boston among the rich I
fancy he would find the Americans in Rome were not so unlike the
majority of wealthy Americans in their own country. But it is pleasanter
to look at those who do than at those who do not, and when we think of
the hands that are busy, and the hearts and the purses that are open in
this hour of fearful need, we have some reason to be proud of human
nature. As to Mr Blatchford his previous political history and his
entire ignorance of European politics together with the influences under
which he came, are elements sufficient to enable one who is no prophet
to foresee exactly what he would do and be, and so he has done, and such
he is. Mrs Blatchford is discreet, has fully preserved her patriotism,
and her love of human liberty, but she must have been more than woman
not to be more or less influenced by the intrigues of able and designing
persons around her, and by the propriety of abstaining from setting
herself in any way in opposition to her husband. [Illegible] We were a good deal interested in Mr
Stillmanâs account of Ruskin with whom he passed, three years ago, a
whole summer in Switzerland. He speaks of him as a most singular
aggregate of contradictions - generous to the extreme but
unsympathizing, impulsive in his attachments and yet incapable of any
strength in them, likely to denounce his best friend from the merest
whim from the slightest offense given his most fastidious taste, loving
nature and yet unable to see her at all as she is, loving art yet
judging of it by the most accidental caprice, without power of executing
anything himself yet possessing the most perfect confidence in his
ability to direct others, now strong in his religious faith, now
carrying his doubts to the extremest atheism, a sincere lover of truth
and yet so mentally constituted as to be almost incapable of recognizing
it. The differences of opinion between Mr Stillman and Mr Ruskin on the
American question has led to an entire interruption of their
correspondence for the last six months. Mr Clay and Mr Artoni came out
to dine with us and in the evening we drank a glass of egg-nogg together
by way of mutual rejoicing over the better prospects at home.
The villagers were all dancing merrily at quite an early hour this
morning. Mr Clay went out and gave the children a ride on the whirligig
to their great delight, and through the whole day we had the music in
their ears and could see the dancing under the trees whenever we chose.
This last was rather monotonous and it was surprising how they could
find any pleasure in it themselves for so many hours, it being kept up
till nearly eleven in the evening. Mr Stillman as well as the other
gentlemen stayed through the day which passed very pleasantly. An
anecdote of Gibson told by Stillman diverted us not a little. The
sculptor was one day talking in a circle of friends in that
semi-lecturing tone so common among artists, and among other things
said: âThat the ancient Greek sculptors did paint their statues is
illegible now settled past dispute.â âI dispute it,â said an English
doctor whose name I forget. âthey never painted their statuesâ. âDo you
mean to sayâ said the indignant artist, turning a fierce glance on the
Dr, âdo you mean to say that the Greek sculptors did not paint their
statues?â âI mean to say exactly thatâ, responded the Dr quietly, âthey
employed somebody to do it who had an eye for colour.â Was this merely a
hard hit at Gibson or had the Dr the anecdote told by Pliny of
Praxitiles in his mind? Stillman speaks with some praise of Boyers, with
much of Story, but the adjectives he bestows upon Mosier are anything
but complimentary. I did not know enough of Stillmanâs history to be
aware of the part he had taken with Kossuth in Hungary, of his adventure
to recover the crown jewels etc. but I have seen and learned enough of
him now to be afraid that he will get his head broken before he gets
back to Europe in case there should be another mob outbreak. Among
little items of home intelligence which he gave us was a most melancholy
history of Miss Fanny McGregor. After the gentlemen left us the Baroness
came in to give us a petit bonsoir and to say she was going to the
mountains.
The villagers kept up their festa all day today with undeminished
energy. We all began to feel a little nervous from the music, each piece
of which had been repeated ad nauseam. The avvocato Molino came this
evening to pay his respects. He is a learned man, has a library of his
own consisting of some eight thousand volumes, and though priggish in
his manners is not unfamiliar with the customs of society. Unluckily he
talks with the energy and speed of a locomotive under full head, and as
he pronounces French after the manner of the Piedmontese it is not easy
to follow him. Fortunately it is never necessary to answer him, so that
no awkwardness grows out of his unintelligibility. We get a new scrap of
home news almost every day now either by telegram or through our own
papers. These last take up an immense deal of time now that we are free
from the manuscript and have the leisure to spare for them. Indeed
letter-writing uses up nearly all the rest and I find I am scarcely able
to do more in some directions than I was before.
Every Post brings fresh good news from America so far as Federal
victories are concerned, but today our feelings of joy in the
brightening prospects of our country were painfully damped by a sad
heartbroken letter from Mr Powers announcing the death of his daughter
Florence, a girl of seventeen, and regarded by all who know the family
as the real genius among his children. Florence was not beautiful, and
has for years fr been suffering from a rhumatic affection which
frequently attacked the heart, but she was lovely in her character, and
every touch of her pencil was inspiration. This will be a terrible blow
to Mr and Mrs Powers, as well as a great grief to the brothers and
sisters.
Mr Marshâs morning trip to Turin, return with papers &c was the
only joy in our beaten track. The papers too, contained only old news. I
was sorry to see however the Gallengaâs first letters from America are
as false as those of his predecessor. He boldly asserts that the New
York Herald is a semi-official paper. Gallengaâs whole life and history
are too well known to admit of much surprise at anything he may do for a
consideration, but it is mournful nevertheless
The thermometer rose to 88 1/2 Fahr. today - warmer than we have ever
before seen it in Piedmont, but there was air stirring and it was not in
the least uncomfortable for one sitting quietly. Our ordinary
occupations were interrupted only by the coming of Mr Artoni to dinner.
We hoped to learn from him the explanation of the change in the English
Embassy from Sir James Hudson to Mr Elliott. Rumour says Sir James
insisted on withdrawing and intends to live at Florence.
We managed to get the thermometer up another degree today 89 1/2. The
telegram this evening brings no important news of military operations in
the United States, but announces the election of the Emperour Arch-duke
Maximilian to the throne of Mexico by certain nobles, and with the
prospective approval of the people. We have been looking for this new
coup dâetat from that old fox Napoleon, but I will venture to prophesy
that the United States of America will make him repent this step, and
still more bitterly if he takes the one now talked of, of forming an
alliance with the Southern States. I have no doubt that the unprincipled
leaders of the rebellion are desperate enough now to promise to accept a
French Prince in case Napoleon will join them against us - but whether
he will really dare to go so far is not so easy to say. What he would
like to do is clear enough, what he dares to do time must show. As soon
as we saw some days ago that the French at New Orleans had asked for a
French frigate to protect them in case of a slave-insurrection we knew
in an instant that this request was dictated at Paris and was part and
parcel of the Mexican operations. As to the Emperourâs European schemes
it is rather a flight of fancy to attempt to divine them. But I believe
there is an understanding between him and Austria that he is to have
Venice in return for Mexico. This he will magnanimously hand over to
Italy and then seize upon, or rather make, a pretext for taking
possession of the two Sicilies for his own family, or perhaps Sardinia
or both - and Italy will have to submit to it a fight. England in the
meantime looks on, seeing the game very imperfectly, indignant at the
aggressions of Napoleon, and not daring to put the least check upon
them. Perhaps she may by and bye begin to see that it would have been as
well, even for her own interests, if she had been less anxious to
cripple us. Will she find Louis Napoleon a safer neighbor for her West
India possessions than we have been? Possibly not. Next Saturday is the
Emperourâs fĂȘte, and I suppose Mr Marsh will have to dine with Mr
Sartiges in in case we are not in the mountains. If he does I have
begged him to tell the French Minister that he cannot congratulate the
newly-elected Maximilian, as he might have done, had not his own
knowledge of the North-American climate taught him that it would not
agree with Emperors. If left to himself I am sure he would say something
even sharper than this, and I have only presumed to suggest by way of
softening.
Mr Marsh brought nothing new from Turin except a family-letter of
interest. It was from Alick, giving an account of his first battle, of
his Libby Prison experiences and others in Dixie He says his little band
of 1600 - the rest having fled almost at the beginning of the fight -
sustained themselves four or five hours against five times their
numbers, which they could not have done of course had they not been in a
very sheltered position. He has however a bullet-hole through his
coat-sleeve to show for it, and his bridle-rein was cut off by a shot
three inches from his hand. We had quite a severe thunder-shower today,
which was rather welcome as the thermometer stood at 89 1/2 when it came
up.
The American papers are very stormy on the subject of the new Empire
in Mexico, though they make no threats, nor do they attempt to say what
our government will do. The English Daily News is, if possible, even
more indignant. The war-news from home is for the most part very
satisfactory. âJesu Maria! to what saint shall I commend them.â said a
poor woman to Giachino this morning when she gave her something from us
to take her to the baths of Acqua -âthere is no saint good enough for
them!â G__ explained to her that we should be p best pleased if she
would pray directly to Heaven for us - that we didnât much mind the
saints as helpers etc - I am afraid the poor creature will expect no
blessing on her journey after this.
We had no American dispatch today, in our papers, though Mr Clay saw
one in a Paris journal - not important. The Daily News bitterly opposes
the French occupation in Mexico, but the L. Times thinks it is a good
thing, as it may prevent the restauration restoration of the American
Union which, it has to admit, might otherwise be possible. I am
intensely anxious to hear what our government will say of the new
Empire. I fear it will not feel itself in a position to protest, but I
heartily pray it may. Judging from the last news it seems as if the p
President was really [illegible] going to allow
Governor Seymour to raise the number of soldiers required of New York in
his own way, and so virtually allow that vile Irish mob with old Hughes
and Fernando Wood at its head to dictate laws to the city and the State,
or rather to the general government itself. Oh, for a man, a man, a
man!
Mr Marsh went to town by the early train and I was left to a long
meditation-day by myself. My eyes would not allow me even to look at a
book for a moment, and I expected to find the twenty four hours heavy on
my hands. The daylight however p passed quickly enough, and in the
evening Signor Molino made me a visit. He has the unmistakable
characteristics of an old bachelor, and loves money intensely beside,
but he is very intelligent, a thorough patriot, and a decided democrat
in the European sense -
We went to Turin this morning, stayed an hour at the Legation and
then took the rail for Novara where we had a very comfortable night at
the HĂŽtel dâItalie. The sun scortched us fiercely during our drive from
PiĂłbesi to Turin, but heavy clouds came up while we were waiting for the
train and we found the air fresh and cool while in the railway
carriage.
We set off early for Varallo by carriage and came up in five hours
suffering very little from the heat. We went to the HĂŽtel dâItalie
remembering our awful experience at the Costa last summer.
Leaving servants behind we set off for Mollia by carriage before six
A.M. The shower of last night was followed by a wind from Monte Rosa
this morning which made us hug our cloaks and shawls in a desperate way.
At Mollia, where we breakfasted comfortably, we found return mules for
Alagna which we appropriated - one for baggage and one for me, Mr Marsh
and Carrie walking. In about three hours we reached Alagna, were
pleasantly recognized by the host, dispatched dinner, took tea, and went
to bed tired.
Mr Marsh rose at three, looked out and found it raining heavily. I
cant say I was sorry, being very tired myself and knowing that he was
far from well. We went to sleep again and were up only in time for a
nine oâclock breakfast. Carrie had headache, and could neither read and
nor write, but managed to carve a very formidable list of âpeaks and
passesâ done by her this summer and last. Her alpenstock really looks
alarming, and I am afraid her space wonât hold out for another summer.
We propose that she shall send it to Barnum on her return to America.
She objects on the ground that he will want her to make a part of the
exhibition. I suggest that he perhaps would get up a mountain for her
and it might turn out a good speculation. She could put on her
mountain-costume and would I am sure draw crowds.
After our dull day yesterday (there were no visitors at the hotel
except natives) we made another long night of it and then set off for
the Pile Alp about six. The weather was not clear but promised fairly.
The snow fell very near us yesterday and the wind this morning was
bitterly cold for one who could not walk. We found the ascent of the
Pile Alp not difficult and occupying only an hour and a half. The view
of Monte Rosa was very fine but hardly so grand as we had looked for.
The highest point even of the Vincent Pyramid was cut off by lower peaks
and the Höchste Spitze was not seen at all, nor could it be from this
spot. Following Murrayâs advice and Signore Grifettiâs) whom by the way
Mr Marsh went to see yesterday) we pushed on to the crest above the Val
di Bours. Our conclusion however was very different from that of the
guide-Book or of the good priest. We did not think the traveller âwell
rewardedâ. On the contrary the view seemed to us to be every way
inferior to that from the Pile except in lateral extent to the right
where something is gained but nothing in the least striking. The glacier
appears so inconsiderable compared with the Lys that we did not think it
worth while to go further; in fact Monte Rosa from this point seemed so
belittled in comparason to what [illegible] we
had seen from the Belvedere above Macugnaga and from the Colâ dâOllen,
that we were quite disposed to pronounce the whole thing in American
phraseology a humbug. We returned to our hotel in time for an early
dinner leaving two Italian gentlemen and two ladies to pursue their
adventures as far as the glacier. These young ladies walked well
certainly, and handled their alpenstocks like adepts, but the amount of
crinoline they wore was by no means suited to such an excursion, and
embarrassed their fellow-travellers if it did not them. The host of the
Albergo del Monte Rosa told us they were Genoese. I am glad to see that
Italians are beginning to interest themselves in their own mountains at
last. The Opinione Gazzetta di Torino contains a glowing account of the
Countess R__. who has lately performed great feats near Courmayeur.
After we had refreshed ourselves with a light dinner and heavy draughts
of tea we found ourselves in sufficiently good spirits to plan a hard
dayâs work for tomorrow over the Col di Mut down into the Val Sermenta,
but on summoning guides &c. we found mules could not be taken over
and that even when at Rima we should probably find none and without them
the expense and trouble of getting me and the rest of the luggage down
to Balmuccio was something rather too formidable to be encountered -
eight or ten men for two days at fifteen francs each was the least we
could bargain for, so we thought prudence required us to return by the
Val Sesia as we came.
We were on our way down the valley soon after six. The day was very
fine and we thought the view near Riva finer grander than anything we
had seen higher up the valley. For a half hour at least the hight
highest peaks of Monte Rosa were perfectly visible, the purest white
against the softest blue. It was wonderful. We arrived at Mollia soon
after nine but found no carriages nor much encouragement that there
would be one in the course of the day. âForse, forse.â was the nearest
like anything that promised hope. We breakfasted, waited till half past
ten but no travellers appeared, and we concluded to go on to Piode Piode
an hour lower in the hope of finding some wheeled vehicle there. Twenty
rods from Mollia however, we met a carriage, hailed the driver, who
promised to take us to Varallo if we would wait while he gave his horses
a riposo. He had brought up an English gentleman who was on his way to
Alagna intending to cross the Col dâOllen. We made friends at once,
though for some time we were puzzled to know whether he was really a
John or a Johnathan. At last speaking of the new French Empire in Mexico
he said âand those Americans who want all that continent for themselves
- they wont like it.â âNoâ we said at once to prevent anything
unpleasant, âbeing Americans ourselves we can answer for that; they will
not like it.â Our new acquaintance looked as if he had met with ârayther
a sudden pull-upâ to use old Mr Wellerâs favorite phrase, but he was
very civil. It is very seldom that I do not instantly recognize an
Englishman by his accent but I now and then meet with a man who is only
of the gentry, not the nobility, whom it is difficult to distinguish
from an American, and it seems that in this case our speech did not
bewray us to him. Soon after twelve the riposo was declared to be
complete and wishing the Englishman a buon viaggio we were soon trolling
briskly down the valley. At Varallo we found the servants well and glad
to see us - our host likewise.
Our host, being unable to answer our enquiries as to the how we could
cross the Colma di Campello, sent for a priest who he said was pratico
of all that country. The priest came, âa well-conditionedâ man as Lord
Carlisle would call him, and gave us the information he possessed. We
did not find him so pratico as we had expected, but he was able to
answer some of our questions, and better still he sent us an old
market-man who really did know the route thoroughly. This old fellow
bargained to meet us at the end of the carriage road near Fobello with a
donkey to take me and a donna to take our night-sacks &c as far as
Rimella. Soon after one we set off. The weather did not look in any way
discouraging for the morrow - in fact it was almost too brilliantly
clear.
At one P.M. we stowed ourselves into the little carriage which was to
take us a little beyond Ferrara, bid Alessan and Giacchino goodbye with
a promise to meet them if all went well, the next day at evening at
Orta, whither they were to go with our boxes. Our fine-looking horse
dashed off gaily and with seeming good-will, and we were soon off the
detestable pavements of the town, and winding up the charming valley.
After something less than half an hour the animal became somewhat
restive, and occasionally made a full stop. Cochy got out, tried to lead
and coax him and finally got him under way again. But it did not last.
The brute soon stopped again, and on being questioned the driver
admitted that the horse âdid sometimes behave in that way just hereâ,)
pointing to a large house not very far before us. His explanation was
that the former owner of the animal lived there, that he had abused the
poor beast which ever since retained the greatest horror of the place,
but that if he could once get him past the house he would go perfectly
well. He could not get him past the house, and we were obliged to leave
the carriage and betake ourselves to the shade of a large walnut-tree
while the man took back the horse to Varallo with a promise to return
speedily. It was not an unpleasant place to wait. The sun scorched us
fiercely while we were in the carriage, and we all agreed that such a
sun in New England would indicate approaching rain. Our man returned in
time, and we went on prosperously to the end of the road, where we found
the donkey &. A few minutes more and we struck off to the right into
the valley of the Rimella. At every step as we advanced the scenery
became more and more striking, The path was a very difficult one for a
donkey, and in some respects a dangerous one for a walker. Much of it
was on shelving rock, that would have been very slippery if wet, and the
chasm below was sometimes tremendous. The mountains were very grand in
proportion, and singularly picturesque and striking in outline. On the
whole we should say that this is one of the finest Alpine vallies we
have ever been in. The last half hour before approaching Rimella is very
steep, though by no means dangerous. We reached the little village
before six, found much more comfortable quarters than we expected, and
were quite enraptured with the view of the mountains seen from our
windows, particularly that towards the south. Having made our
arrangements to cross the Colma early the next morning we went to rest,
thankful for clean beds and a pleasant rooms where we had expected only
discomfort.
Before five our little inn was astir with preparation. The poles we
had brought with us were fastened to a small armchair, the straps, also
our own, were adjusted to the shoulders of the men who were to carry the
chair, and we set off satisfied with every thing but the appearance of
the weather which was perfectly bright at four oâclock, but now a little
patch of fog was rising here and there. The ascent was steep, and the
grass so very wet as to make the walking uncomfortable. We met many of
the villagers at work in the hay, some cutting the grass with sickles,
other bringing home loads of hay on their heads &c and all seemed
astonished at our procession. Ă una bella roba questa per le montagne,
said an old woman as she looked at me and my chair with a no very
admiring expression. When we were within about twenty minutes of the
summit we decided to turn off to some chĂąlets on our right and wait for
an hour or two to see what the weather was likely to be. The fog had
increased so rapidly that Monte Rosa and the whole chain of the higher
Alps, were entirely covered, and even the nearer mountains were
partially lost in it. We determined if possible to pass the night in one
of these chĂąlets and wait for another sunrise rather than miss the sight
we had come so far to witness. One of the shepherds guided us to a
chĂąlet evidently the pride of the hamlet Over the door was the date of
its erection - 1630 - âas old as the settlement of Plymouth Colony,â
said Mr Marsh, as we went in through the narrow entrance. The interior
was perhaps sixteen feet square. A partition four or five feet high
divided the and extending half across the room, divided the right hand
portion of the space into two small compartments, the one nearest the
door was filled up with little sticks and dried roots such as could be
found at this height, and served for fuel. The other contained two
bunks, neither of them long enough for a grown person to lie at length,
and with bedding of a very uninviting character. On our left hand, near
the door, was a raised platform either of stone or dried earth which
served as a fireplace. Over it and suspended by a chain hung a sort of
pot-hook. There was no chimney whatever and the smoke found its way out
as it could. Around the wall of the remaining space stood two or three
small chests which also served for benches. Two or three shelves were
placed above these chests, on them stood one small copper kettle two or
three wooden bowls, one of them badly cracked and tied together by
strings. Three or four old wooden spoons, two small churns - I think
this was everything the cottage contained. The proprietor of this
establishment soon came in, & gave us a friendly welcome. He seemed
much interested to see strangers, and told us that he too had a son who
was out in the wide world. Mr Marsh asked him where he was &c, and
in answer the old man said that the his boy first went to Rome, that he
lived there several years, afterwards went to Paris, where he was now
established as an optitian. He gave Mr Marsh the name and address of his
son, and he is determined to look up Mr Gaudenzio Calzino when we next
go to Paris. Such contrasts between the life of father and son, though
common enough with us, are extremely rare in Europe. While we were
talking with the man he made ready and ate his breakfast, I watching the
process with far more interest even than I listened to his conversation.
He turned a small quantity of milk into one of the wooden bowls, then
with the most ancient of wooden spoons he dipped up some dry meal from
one of the little chests, stirred this meal into the milk and then ate
the mixture without so much as warming it or even adding a particle of
salt. I thought I had never seen poverty so poor before. But the old man
looked and talked cheerfully, and though he seemed to eat mechanically
he showed no dislike to the food he was swallowing. When he had finished
his breakfast he told us he was going down to Campello, wished us a buon
viaggio and left us in possession of his domicile. After our host had
left us we took another observation of the weather. There was no decided
improvement, and we were now forced to decide whether we would try to
spend the night here or not. We had a good basket of provisions with us
which would last through the day - straw we could not get to lie on, but
hay perhaps we might, and by filling up the open space on the floor we
might stay till morning though we could not hope to sleep. Carrie and I
were rather disposed to try the experiment, and Mr Marsh was at first
very ready to do so, but an hourâs rest had just made him sensible that
he was thoroughly drenched with perspiration, not only his under-flannel
and his flannel shirt being completely wet but even his coat, and the
cold mountain mists were now making him shiver in spite of a heavy plad
plaid. He dared not stay, and the next question was (stick) should we go
forward or back. If we went on we must give up the whole object of our
trip as there was no sleeping place nearer than Forno, and a hard case
at that. It was finally settled that we should return to Rimella and
wait for a clear sky. Unhappy souls! We little knew the penance we were
preparing for ourselves! We left the saddle and our basket of provisions
to the care of the shepherds and returned with downcast faces to
Rimella, ordered our dinner, which did not turn out badly and then sat
down to watch the heavens. They grew darker and darker, Heavy [illegible] black masses of cloud were rolling rapidly
up from the south-east, and by four oâclock the rain began. We tried to
believe that this was a fortunate circumstance, would clear off the fog
etc, and I went to the sack to bring out my store of tea, which is
always consoling in trying circumstances. We then begged the landlord
for a coffee-pot of boiling-water. We knew it was of no use to ask for a
teapot. The water was brought, but was not boiling as a matter of
course. The landlord told us he had no tea-cups, but offered us scudelli
in place of them which we accepted thankfully. A scudello in this case
meant a large bowl something like a soup-tarrine with a cover. They were
just six inches across the top. These being provided we fastened our
door, rested our coffee-pot between two chairs, put a couple of candles
under it & in a few minutes the boiling steam rolled off out from
the top and spout in the most satisfactory way. We had some excellent
tea and went to bed with pretty good courage for the morrow
These days may well all be summed up together, being as like to each
other as one egg is to another or a my finger is to my finger, or as a
negro is to a negro, or any other equally appropriate comparison. We
rose every morning to see the mountains covered with thick clouds, with
wreaths of mist filling every valley and winding up their sloping sides,
We sat nearly all day at the windows, watching now the rain, now the
promise of an outbreaking sun, now a hoped-for change of wind, We went
to bed at night with the sound of pouring spouts and streaming eaves in
our ears, we rose a dozen times if there happened to be as many lulls
between showers to see if it was clearing away. We had not brought with
us the smallest apology for a book, - the first time in our lives we
ever risked ourselves in this way even for a night - Carrie and I had
not even a change of clothing, though husband luckily was better
provided. We had a needle and some thread for sewing on a button or so,
but nothing for mending a stocking, supposing we should reach Giacchino
before there would be any want of such repairs. Carrieâs red merino
walking stockings however were found to have given out on our return
from the chĂąlets. What was to be done. She had a pair of cotton ones
with her but they would not answer for hard walking. I was consulted
professionally, examined the case, and declared the remedy to be
ravelling from the top of the stocking as much as should be necessary to
supply the deficiency in the heel. My advice was received with applause,
and nothing could be happier than the result. Mr Marsh had an idea not
less brilliant in its way. He went to the priest to enquire if there was
any place in the village where books might be found. The poor man
(rather a heavy specimen) sighed out a negative, pitied us for having
fallen even for a few days into circumstances where his harder lot had
kept him so long. Not dismayed (stick) by this failure he bethought
himself of the schoolmaster, and sent to ask him if he would allow him
to see the books used by the children in the school. Oh, what a
rejoicing! The master sent in a large pile including even the childrenâs
copy-books, their chat catachisms &c, We were really most thank ful.
The schoolbooks were evidently designed for children accustomed to speak
a patois (here a strange medley of German and Italian) and the Tuscan
words were carefully explained. The chief reading-book consisted of very
simple explanations of most of the common operations of daily life in
the house, the field, the shop, the church, and would really be a
capital book for a stranger wishing to learn the language of common
life. There was also a good deal of instruction as to the proprieties
and courtesies of life, the duties of children to parents, of citizens
to the State &&. In their catachisms great stress is laid upon
their sacraments (seven) and especially on the doctrine that there is no
salvation out of the Romish Church. The ambition of our host was so
stimulated by the success of the school-master that he managed to find
somewhere either in his own house or a neighborsâ a volume of the London
exposition of â51, a part of a volume of Dante, an old treatise on
medicine and two novels - one Hildrethâs White Slave translated into
Italian, the other Isnardo by [illegible]
Colleone. Carrie appropriated the White Slave at once but Mr Marsh and I
contented ourselves with the childrenâs literature. Now and then she
read me an extract, and I was sorry to see that a New Englander could be
willing to send forth hold up such a picture of his native land to the
eyes of foreign nations. No one pretends to claim perfection either for
the institutions of New England or the character of New Englanders or of
the Northern United States generally, but the wider a manâs experience
is, the more enlightened his head, and the more loving his heart, the
more he will find in that region to admire and to be proud of, the more
he will feel that nowhere else are are to be found laws so reasonable,
customs so sensible, lives so unspotted, and shame on the man who would
cast shame on the mother-land that bore him. A man may fairly admit a
particular wrong in such a case but general abuse and contempt is
unpardonable, On Sunday an express arrived from Alessan and Giacchino
who were in a state of the greatest alarm. We had sent a letter to them
by way of Varallo but it had not reached them. On Thursday they sent a
messenger as far as Campello, who returned without any certain tidings
of us, though there was a rumour there that a party of three had gone up
into the higher mountains some days before. In the meantime Alex. had
seen an account of a Russian gentleman murdered by his guide in
Switzerland, also of the murder of the host of Mattmark by some
ruffians, and he had become half beside himself from anxiety. This was
just what we feared and it had made us more uneasy than any other
circumstance of our detention. Carrie wrote a few lines of explanation
to G., our host gave the messenger a good dinner, and he departed, not
however without having told us by way of consolation that the road was
in a very bad state &c that he had been op obliged to pass through
water to his thighs. This condition of things we had anticipated and
should have returned to Varallo as we came but for the recollection of
the slippery rock-shelf over which we had passed in coming up, and from
the fact that the rain of a single day a week ago had made the road
between Varallo and Ferrara impassable for some time and of course this
longer storm would probably have produced even worse effects. We went to
bed Sunday night without any very bright hopes, though the rain had
nearly ceased for some hours.
At day-break the sky was cloudless. We hurried our few traps into our
sacks, drank a cup of coffee, took leave of our quiet host and the
kindly group gathered at his door, and set our faces hopefully towards
the Colma. Alas, a few thin broken threads of mist were already barring
the eastern sky, and here and there a little tassle of fog seemed to
hang from the mountain tops, but the peasantry were all out of their
work again, and the peculiar Alpine Hail! was echoed from one hillside
to another. Men and women were in the walnut and the ash-trees breaking
off and dropping down the leaves which they told us made very tolerable
food for the cattle in winter. Others were cutting off the potatoe-tops
for the same purpose. When we thought how little the labour of a strong
man would produce in this way and how wretchedly poor must be the region
where time was worth no more, and then contrasted this extreme poverty
with the wealth of the great church of the village, its fine arc
internal architecture, its magnificent marbles, &c it did not seem
possible that this half-starving population could have raised in a
thousand generations the means to build such a structure; And yet the Dr
of the village had told Mr Marsh that those grand columns, and a
splendid architrave weighing 2000 pounds had been paid for by the
contributions of this commune, and brought by the men over these
terrible roads, and up these steep hillsides, over rock and stream on
their shoulders! In reply to Mr Marshâs question how it was possible the
Dr answered: âIt would be impossible for any but the priests to get all
this out of our poor peasants. But the priests, signore, the priests can
draw blood from a stone.â On our way this morning we again observed what
we had noticed the other day - the great number of little wooden crosses
placed in little arches of masonry built against the hillsides. There
must have been between one and two hundred. Mr Marsh counted 60 in one
arch. The initials and date of the death of the individual whose memory
they were intended to pres preserve were generally cut on the crosses.
The oldest date we noticed was 1830, and our guides told us that these
were in memory of persons who had lost their lives in some way by
accident on the mountains during the last thirty years. Some had
perished from avalanches; others crushed by falling rocks; some had been
lost in the winter-snows; others fallen from great heights either when
following their herds, cutting grass, or pursuing game. Our landlord at
Rimella had previously told us that the snow last winter fell and lay on
the earth for a long time to the depth of ten feet. The view before us,
below us, and behind us was wonderfully fine, but the mist was rising
more and more heavily, and sometime before we reached the chalet of
Tuesdayâs experience it was evident Monte Rosa did not mean to show
herself. The old man who carried our sacks struck off for the chĂąlets to
pick up what we had left there with authority to impress a shepherd if
he could to help him take his load to the top of the Colma. We pursued
our way over very steep pasture-ground, now thoroughly soaked with the
late rain, & I could see that the walkers were sometimes in the
water nearly to their ankles. When fairly at the top we all drew
together under the shelter of a rock and sat down. The view towards
Rimella was of the finest character, but down the opposite slope it
looked more dreary and desolate. But nothing of all that we had
especially desired to see was visible. Monte Rosa and her satellites
were wrapped in the thickest clouds. âPazienza,â we cried, âweâll come
here another year, if we live.â Our guides then pointed out a summit
about a thousand or perhaps 1500 feet above us (we were already at at
[sic] height equal to that of Mount Washington)
where they said the prospect was far finer than from the Colma. This
peak is called the Capio - and they said if we would come next July,
sleep in a chĂąlet and let them take us to the summit of the Capio before
sunrise we should see as grand a sight as we had ever witnessed in the
Alps. There was another lofty summit, more to our right as we looked
down towards Rimella which Mr Marsh thought must command a wider view
even than the Capio. The guides admitted this but said it was more
difficult of ascent. This was the Striengo. Having given the men time to
dispose of the chicken, the bread and the wine with which we had
furnished them we began to descend, expecting every moment however that
the great black clouds now hanging over us, would pour down a deluge on
our heads. The character of the path had been sufficiently impressed
upon us to leave no room for surprise when we found it in some places
almost perpendicular. But for the straps fastened to the back of my
chair which I brought around my shoulders and held with my hands, and
for the thick roll of shawls which had been placed on the edge of the
chair under my knees I could never have held myself in it during a large
part of the way down to Campello. Still it was not so bad as we had
expected. The floods had had time to abate. There was no necessity to
wade so deep as when Alessanâs messenger came up, and those portions of
the path that had been absolutely washed away were already patched up so
that we could get over. In fact our progress was far more rapid than we
had ventured to hope for. We reached Campello in an hour and a half and
were at Forno not long after eleven. Here we hoped to find mules, but
none were to be had. Our guides were evidently much pleased at this, as
it would give them an opportunity to carry me all the way to Omegna and
so secure another dayâs pay. After a dinner and a two hours rest at
Forno, (not a very inviting place) our party set out again. The valley
of the Strona is exceedingly beautiful not so wild as many others but
now and then very grand, and its little bridge and village are
distributed as if by the hand of the most skillful of artists. The
vegetation too is charming. Creeping vines of every discription, the
dark green ivy, many trailing plants covered with flowers, others with
clusters of red or black berries, were everywhere hanging from the
rocks, draping the bridges, climbing the trees. We reached Omegna about
six P.M. - Mr Marsh and Carrie having walked the whole day - a distance
of at least twenty miles, not to speak of the stiffness of the climb,
and of the steepness of a considerable portion of the descent. On
arriving at Omegna we found that the good woman who had met us on the
way near Forno and told us that we âwere expected in Omegnaâ was not in
the least mistaken. It seemed as if the whole village were likely to
gather in the street before the hotel. One told us there had been a
great many there to enquire for us, another said he had waited ever so
many nights with his boat to take us down to Orta - in short there was
no end to their questions and congratulations, and we were thankful
enough when we found ourselves in the carriage on our way to Orta,
rickety as was the old vehicle, and restive as wh was the beast which
drew it, and drunk as was the driver who conducted it. By eight oâclock
we arrived in Orta without shipwreck. Alex. was so much overcome that
his voice was scarcely intelligible. Giacchino was more composed, but it
was plain they had both suffered very much from their anxiety. Some hot
tea and a good bath soon refreshed us wonderfully, and beds were never
more welcome.
I was thankful to find the two pedestrians in good case this morning
- no blisters - no great lassitude. Immediately after breakfast we went
over to the island of San Giulio., saw some very interesting things in
the Church, especially the old stone pulpit, and a bas-relief of San
Giulio himself - (the St Patrick of Orta,) pronouncing the decree of
banishment against the serpents of the island. Not being able to find a
boatman courageous enough to take him to ths this nest of vipers the
good Saint spread his cloak on the water and in this way sailed over in
safety. This incident is also represented. Returning to our hotel we
found two English couples, whom we had left there, debating what to do
next. Monte Rosa was still hidden by clouds and it seemed idle to go in
that direction. Mr Marsh took out his fine maps to show certain points
to one of the gentlemen, the other having in the meantime settled
himself down quietly over his Times. The talk over the map went on for
some minutes, the gentleman with the newspaper paying no attention to
it. Mr Marshâs interlocutor at last spoke of the beauty of the maps: -
âThey must be very dear, I suppose!â âOh noâ said my husband, âI gave
but two francs apiece for them.â The gentleman of the newspaper started
at the words âonly two francsâ as if he had received an electric shot,
and the livliest interest shone out in every feature. I could scarcely
keep my countenance, and it was the more difficult because I thought Mr
Marsh was also disposed to laugh. As soon as we were alone I asked him
if he noticed the circumstance. âCertainly I did; you canât say franc
before an Englishman without making him start.â At one we left in a
carriage for Arona. A heavy shower soon came on and we had rather a wet
time till we reached the railway station. We had in the same compartment
with us in the train a beautiful Milanese lady who made herself most
agreeable. I was quite fascinated by her and sorry to part with her at
Novara where we had to wait two hours for the express to Turin. We dined
here, fortunately and were again on our way at half past seven, with the
expectation of reaching the capital a quarter before eleven. But alas
for human expectation, Our engine failed, and it was two in the morning
when the long waited-for substitute took us safely up to the Turin
station. On our way to the HĂŽtel dâEurope one of the horses spu stumbled
so badly as [illegible] nearly to occasion a
catastrophe, and we were thankful enough when we found ourselves safely
in the HĂŽtel dâEurope in the magnificent apartment on the first floor
which fronts on the Piazza Madama, and the Via
Our post contained no bad news, and we breakfasted in peace at ten,
after which Mr Marsh went to the Legation, Carrie and I finished off
letters, the servants went to see Madame Ghirardi about the house,
Gaetano was sent to PiĂłbesi with provisions for dinner and directions to
send carriages to the station for us at five. At half past four we paid
a very loud bill for our apartment tea, and breakfast, and drove to the
station. Here we met Mr Carutti, a very pleasant surprise. A lively old
gentleman, evidently a man of rank and position entertained us in the
most agreeable way as far as Candiolo where we got out in a pouring
rain. Gaetano was there and we were soon whirling off towards the old
Castle, the horses smoking, the mud flying and the rain pouring in
streams from our umbrellas down our backs. We found the gardenerâs wife
at the station of Candiolo returning from Cavoretto, and Mr Marsh took
her with the little Pinotto into the carriage he would otherwise have
had to himself, and as he drove on before us it was really melancholy to
see the poor womanâs gay ribbons wilt under the storm. We met with a the
hearty welcome at the door from Carlo, Susanne, Antonia &c and were
soon sitting at our own dinner-table everything looking just as when we
left.
Raining again this morning - fine weather for bringing up lagging
work, looking over American papers &c. Before night we were so
thoroughly in the track again that the last fortnight seemed quite like
a dream. In the evening the Baroness came in, bringing the avvocato
Fava, an intelligent liberal man. The Baroness does not look well and
complains of almost constant fever. She tells me that it is really the
delicate little Countess Rignon, whom I fancied so much, that has done
the great feats in the way of mountain climbing which have been
trumpeted in the papers as the doings of the Countess R__ . I am
delighted that the Turinese are waking up to their mountains. The
Baroness herself greatly regrets that she cannot pass more time among
them, I forgot to show her C__ âs stick on which she has carved her
exploits. By the way, her head is so full of stick that today when I
expressed my surprise on learning from some American paper that Fanny
Fern who was Mrs Farnsworth when we left was now Mr [s] Parton, C__ said: âWhy the woman will have to get
her a stick to cut her husbandsâ names on!â
After the morning writing Mr Marsh read to me from Du Praâs
Parliamento Italiano, and from Buckle, The latter becomes more
interesting as the proportion of his facts increases and that of his own
speculations diminishes. I wish I could communicate to Ausonio Franchi
the extracts he gives from Hooker & Chillingworth as to the
authority on which Protestants rest their faith. When Mr Marsh was
hoarse I betook myself to Carrie who read German to me for an hour when
dinner was announced. After this, we were made painfully sensible that
the long evenings are rapidly approaching. By half past six it was quite
too dark to do anything. When tea was over Carrie read some nice things
from the Revue des Deux Mondes, but I dread this evening work on account
of her eyes.
We took a seven oâclock breakfast this morning in order to allow Mr
Marsh to go to Turin. For several days the display of fruit on our table
has been worthy some horticultural show. This morning we measured a
peach which proved to be nearly eleven inches in circumference, and that
too, measuring it not in its oblong direction. Its quality we did not
test, but one measured yesterday at dinner ten inches in circumference
was found to be excellent. Mr Marsh brought no news of special interest
from Turin. The American news generally favourable but not important.
The Italie contains a sharp article on France because she does not
incline to give up the brigands. It seems impossible that the Emperour
can be base enough to refuse to surrender them. Montalambertâs speech on
liberty of conscience produces some stir, but the Armonia, though it
speaks of the discourse, makes no allusion to the subject. - . Mr Clay
and Mr Artoni came out at six, and brought the glad news of the
surrender of Fort Sumter. We had not looked for it so soon, and our joy
was the greater. We celebrated late in the evening, to the great delight
of Gaetano, who, for certain reasons of his own, prays for a great
Federal victory every week.
The temperature and atmosphere today were like those of one of our
softest Indian summer days. The gentlemen seemed to enjoy the garden not
a little. They talked, read, lounged &c while Mr Marsh and I stayed
in-doors and read the concluding chapters of Christianaâs pilgrimage.
The evening paper brought us later news - the request of the French and
English consuls in Charleston that the further bombardment of the city
be susppended till they can get off with their property, and that of the
Charleston people themselves that they may send off women, children
&c. It would seem that natives and foreigners alike had already had
warning enough. The Confederacy is said to be screaming to the Emperour
of the French for help, and Jeff. Davis sends out a circular to show
that they have quite as much the advantage in the contest as has the
U.S. Government. But the richest item is the report in the Toronto
Gazette (the same that a few days before declared we were preparing to
send a hundred thousand men to divide the two Canadas) that âa
conspiracy has been discovered by which it appears that the U.S. Gov. is
on the eve of attacking Canada!â A later telegram say this rumour lacks
confirmation! It is really no small compensation for all the abuse the
English Press has heaped upon us during the last two years and a half to
see what a terrible bugbear we are becoming to them as the prospects for
the restoration of the Union brighten. These remours will provoke a
shout of laughter and derision throughout our whole country.
An article in the American Times received this morning speaking of
France and England and our relations with them comes to some very sage
conclusions. After speaking of England, her embarrasments, and the
absolute necessity of peace as her only safety, the editor says of
France - that she is dying of a mortal and incurable disease - that
Russia is destined to remodel Europe and that young America and this
young giant have already stretched out their hands to each other. It
concludes with: âLet the heathen rage!â Mr Marsh does not fully
sympathize with the writer in his sanguine hopes of the beneficial
influence of Russia on modern civilization, but he does believe that
both England and France are âpost meridianâ and that their course toward
us during this rebellion will serve to accelerate rapidly the day of
their doom. The Italian papers contain little of interest today except
an account of the funeral of La Farina who died last Saturday from
Typhoid. We have seen no inconsiderable number of the great men of Italy
pass away since we came here. The Armonia, as might be expected from the
nature of the thing, take this occasion to launch an anathema against
the memory of the great man who has just been called away.
The telegram today is that Chattanooga is in possession of Rosencranz
[Rosecrans], and consequently all Eastern
Tennessee cleared of rebels. This virtually gives us another state. The
Confederates are calling loudly on France for help, but the most
important item perhaps is that Davis has, with the consent of the
governours, directed the arming of 500000 negroes to fight for the
Confederacy under a promise that they are all to have their freedom with
a bounty of 50 acres of land when the independence of the South shall
have been achieved - âGod moves in a mysterious way. His wonders to
perform.â It seems as if He in His wisdom had determined to make the
South itself the instrument of the deliverance of the negro. When the
North, faithless to the high part she should have performed, yields
weakly to the most unreasonable demands of the South for the sake of
peace, He suffers the South to go on in its career of madness until at
last she forces the reluctant North into self-defence. But even yet the
free States are not ready to do their duty, and the government at
Washington is ever far behind the people. Then He gives victories to the
South, and more victories, until the government and the people of the
United States find there is no alternative but to make war on Slavery as
well as on the Slave States. Then the tide turns in our favour, -
success rapidly follows success, until there is serious talk of an
approaching reconstruction of the old Union - And now it is apparent
that there are not wanting men in the North as anxious to say save what
remains of slavery as are the men at the South, and while we stand half
aghast with fear lest their infernal system should in some way or other
have its wretched life prolonged, lo, the arch-rebel himself steps
forward and cuts the knot. He proclaims freedom to at least every
able-bodied negro that can be found in the States which still profess
allegiance to him; and after this will our government when the rebels
are conquered, put these men or their families back into bonds? - those
bonds from which their masters themselves have released them? I trow
not, Aand if the war goes on, even if France comes int in to the aid of
the traitors, the negro at least has had his chains broken, for which
God be praised.
Alex returned from Turin at one oâclock having been sent there to
conclude the arrangement with the Ghirardi for the rent of the rooms on
the pian terreno of the Casa dâAngennes to be used for the Legation.
Madame, however, though her promise had been perfectly distinct,
declared that on the whole she wouldnât rent them at all - that they
were worth much more than the 3000 francs for which she had offered them
(3000 francs for three low rooms, one with small windows facing the Via
dâAngennes, the other two only looking out on the court!) and that she
would not now give them up to any one till the first of March. Pazienza!
say the Italians at every breath, and there is need enough of it when
dealing with such a madwoman as this. This evening the Morning Post says
that the English government have concluded to stop Mr. Lairdâs piratical
proceedings! The taking of Charleston has proved with them a weightier
argument than justice, honour, or even the interests of their own
manufacturing classes. If Englishmen in power had not shown themselves
for centuries beneath all sense of shame in their intercourse with
foreign nations they might be supposed to blush on this occasion. The
Diritto says that the Emperour of the French has signed the order for
giving up the brigands to the Italian government. I trust this is
so.
The Avocato Molino passed the evening with us, which was rather a
relief, as, when we have our days entirely without interruption, we are
tired of reading and writing by dinner-time. He is by no means a siher
sigher after the good old times, but rejoices in every forward step that
is taken.
Our occupations were as usual with the exception of certain
preparations for another mountain excursion. Mr Marsh spent some time
with the carpenter in trying to realize a chaise-Ă -porteurs which he had
idead some days ago, and Carrie and I had our little odds and ends to
look out for. For the first time for many weeks the mountains are
perfectly clear all day. If these trips were not so expensive they would
be even more tempting than they are. I hinted as much to Mr Marsh the
other day, and he hushed me up by saying: âDonât you know you shouldnât
talk about want of means except in the most secret recesses of our
chamber! In Europe It is no disgrace to be mean, but it is unpardonable
to be poorâ - One would really think that this last was the truest of
truths to judge from what we see and hear of the doings of the rich in
their intercourse with their inferiors. Among the developments which
have followed the animated discussions about the retirement of Sir James
Hudson, is the charge by the French, said also to be supported by the
declarations of the Italian Ministry and the subsequent coldness of our
King himself towards Sir James, that he interfered with the movements of
Garibaldi last autumn in such a way as to bring about the collision
between the great patriot and his government, the object of the British
Minister being to turn the threatened storm from Austria, and produce a
rupture between Italy and France. Mr Sartiges openly declares that this
was the case, and says there are abundant proofs of it which History
will be able to make use of. I can believe anything of the intrigues of
the British government against France or any other nation which it
believes its own interest [illegible] requires
should be weakened, but I find it hard to suppose that such a man as Sir
James Hudson would consent to serve as an instrument for the overthrow
of this fair kingdom he is thought to have done so much to elevate. Poor
Garibaldi were he not one of Godâs own inspired prophets of liberty, the
treacherous snares that have been spread for him on all sides and by
almost every hand, would have destroyed his faith long before this, but,
like Jeanne dâArc, neither the neglect of those he has best served nor
the rage of his enemies, nor the treachery of those who creep into his
confidence for the very purpose of accomplishing his ruin - none of
these things move him.
We were by ourselves all day - that is C. and I, Mr Marsh not
returning from Turin till six. In the evening the Baronne Gautiers and
the Avvocato Fava came to us. The former was very eager to know what we
thought and believed about Davisâ Proclamation calling on the Negroes
and promising them their freedom. We had a hearty laugh over the
club-room gossip of Turin, which is that the Emperor of France has
called on the Italian government for a contingent of 100000 men to carry
on the war against the government of the United States. Mr Marsh
promised the Baroness letters for her son which should secure him the
best of treatment when prisoner of war. The prospects of the new King of
Greece and of the Archduke Maximillian were then considered and Mr Marsh
settled the question as to whose were the most enviable in favour of the
Prince of Denmark on the ground that he was much nearer his friends in
case of the catastrophe which would inevitably befal them both. The two
gentlemen went into the Library after dinner tea and Fava, who speaks
French badly and prefers Italian when he can use it, told Mr Marsh that
though Piedmontese was the language of his childhood he had always
spoken Tuscan and perfectly understood everything that was said in that
language, yet he himself was not understood by the common people of
Ancona. Their own language he says is very pure and he has not the
slightest difficulty in comprehending every word they address to him,
while on the other hand his Piedmontese accent so much embarrasses them
that they do not know what he is saying. The educated classes who have
been more accustomed to hear varieties of pronunciation understand him
perfectly but say at once - âOh, you are a Piedmontese!â He instanced
the word studio. âNow,â said he, âI know very well how this word should
be pronounced, but in rapid speaking I give the u a semi-French sound,
and the o and indistinct vowel sound, and except by an educated
inhabitant of Ancona I am not understood. Fava is Procureur du Roi at
Ancona, an officer whose duty it is to attend to the legal rights of
such persons as cannot afford to pay lawyers, he receiving his salary
from the government.
Gaetanoâs wife and little girl came out to spend the day. The mamma
is plain, but not less briosa than her husband, and the daughter does
her parents no discredit. The bells were ringing for the festa while I
was talking with the mother, and she broke out into a lamentation over
these endless feste which she declared were not per devozione but to
cavar i danari. âIf I had the powerâ said she âthere should not be more
than four in the year, for they ruin poor people and they cause so many
accidents and so much viceâ. I was much amused at this expression âif I
had the powerâ. In itself it proves the astonishing change that is going
on in the minds of this people. The little girl recited a long poem, the
burthen of which was bella, bella Italia - giardino della Natura - very
pretty and very patriotic. The child with her heavy black hair, her very
dark complexion, keen black eyes and irregular features, reminded me
forcibly of George Sandâs Petite Fadette. This morning we finished
Seldenâs Table Talk, and though there is much in it that is very pithy
and very terse and the book is both instructive and amusing, yet I
confess I should never have thought of ranking it where Coled Coleridge
does. One of his anecdotes amused me particularly. When Sir Robert
Cotton was examining what he believed to be a shoe that had belonged to
Noah or Nebuchadnezzar or some such old worthy, and wondering at its
most extraordinary shape, my lady Cotton said to him quietly - âAre you
sure it is a shoeâ? Speaking of the Puritans Selden says âhe declares he
would be judged by the word of God: if he would speak clearly he means
himself, but heâs ashamed to say so, and he would have me believe him
before a whole church that has read the Word of God as well as he.â No
man however was a stouter champion for private judgement than Selden. In
the evening we read an interesting article of Marc Monnierâs on the late
discoveries in Pompeii. Little Carolina came in with her mother to say
goodnight, and repeated another poem in which the virgine benedetta di
Rimini, (the winking Madonna) was invoked to open the eyes of her
faithful Italian children and convince them that the sciochezze del papa
e dei cardinali were not la vera chiesa di Dio. What a muddle there must
be in the heads of the people in this transition state! In answer to
questions about reading the child said she dearly loved story books and
little poems, everything in fact but libri di devozione which tired her
dreadfully and put her to sleep! A seven-year-old child this!
A note came in from Lucy Tottenham this morning to tell us of the
death of her brother in India. An hour later Gaetano brought another
from Mrs T. herself. This is the first child she has ever lost out of
her ten, and it will be an overwhelming blow to her and to them all.
They seem a most affectionate family, and I feel very sincerely for
them. The Post brought no letters from America, and the papers contained
nothing we had not already learned through the Daily News. Opinions vary
so much from day to day on the great political questions that they are
hardly worth recording, but the general belief today is that the
Archduke Maximilian will not accept the Mexican throne, and that the
French Emperour will not meddle further in our affairs. Quien sabe? A
spirited little tit for tat is now going on between the papal government
and the Italian one. The authorities of Naples, having detected the
Popeâs consul there in a treasonable correspondence, sent him home.
Thereupon the Pope sent out of Rome the consul of Victor Emmanuel. Upon
this the Italian government has ordered every Papal consul throughout
the kingdom to take himself off, and report to the Holy Father that his
services were no longer required. The National Committee, which has long
been carrying on its operations in the very heart of Rome, defying all
the skill of the police to detect who are its members or where it
assembles, having lately found that some of its own friends acting in
behalf of the so-called Party of Action were issuing publications to the
detriment of the Good Cause, seized the other day their printing press
and all their papers, and put a stop to further operations, Aand even
after an event calculated to excite so much stir and gossip, the Roman
government is unable to find out anything whatever about the
transaction. This would seem incredible to one unfamiliar with the
astonishing art, cunning, and secrecy which tyranny begets. I forgot to
mention in its proper place, last Saturday, of an offer made to Mr Marsh
by a wealthy Hungarian officer who said he would take to America for the
service of our government three hundred veteran Hungarians armed and
equipped fully, and would pay their expenses over provided he could be
sure that they would be received into the service and that at the end of
the war he should be repaid simply the expense of their passage. Mr
Marsh was obliged to say that he had no authority whatever to commit the
government to anything of the kind, and that he had written to the
Secretary of State so often asking instructions with regard to similar
offers, none of which had ever been accepted, that he was unwilling to
press the government further. It grieves me to think how many
experienced soldiers, hardened to bear every kind of privation and
fatique, are here longing to help fight our battles, which our young
men, delicately brought up and with constitutions half formed must go
and lay down their lives without being able to do anything like so
effectual service as these fellows might, and be none the worse for it.
A cannon-shot to be sure would be fatal alike to the one and the other,
but not so the hardships of a long and desperate campaign. I have no
doubt that the presence of large bodies of foreigners, foreign officers
&c would create some embarrassments, but I think if Mr Seward and
others in power would condescend to accept a few Hungarians and Italians
in the place of the hoads of hoards of Irish they encourage our country
would be none the worse for it. In the evening we began one of a series
of articles in the Revue des Deux Mondes on the Diplomatic life of Lord
Malmesbury embracing a period of thirty five years, commencing towards
the close of th the reign of Frederic the Great. He served at different
courts and seems to have been a man of great ability as a negociator, to
have had remarkable social qualities which gave him unusual influence at
the various courts to which he was accredited, as well as a man of
admirable private character. Yet it is astonishing that a man like him
could reproach the French government with political intrigues, brand
Frenchmen with every hard name for their insincerity &c, and yet at
the very same time be proposing to his own government to make an effort
to bribe Catherineâs Minister Potemkin, and suggesting that it might be
well to excite Catherineâs jealousy of Sweden and Prussia by calling her
attention to some visits etc which had lately taken place between the
Royal Houses of those two Countries. The price of Potemkin, he admits,
would be high, perhaps not less than $4000000; but thinks the money
would be well spent! As to the insinuations about Prussia and Sweden he
does not pretend to believe that there is the least shadow of foundation
for them in truth, only he proposes to take advantage of certain
circumstances to give a colour to them, and in fact says that he has
already begun the good work on his own and responsibility! If such
things are done by an English Diplomat of rare private virtues it se
would seem to me that English Diplomacy has little right to reproach
French Diplomacy with its colour.
After Mr Marshâs return from Turin we read Buckle again, and re-read
a part of Carlyleâs Diamond Necklace, which we have neither of l us
looked at for twenty years. In spite of all my dislike of much that this
great man has written lately; in spite of my contempt for his unworthy
and miserable prejudices, I never take up his earlier writings without
the liveliest admiration, and a feeling of real gratitude to him for the
intellectual stimulus they afforded me at the age of twenty. Just before
we left the dinner-table a carriage was announced, and our visitors
proved to be the Healeys of Boston, friends of our good friend Mrs John
Paine. We were very glad to see them, had a nice talk of friends and
interests at home, and parted like old acquaintances. We were glad to
learn from them that Mrs Cleaveland with her family is in Europe
again.
After dinner Carrie went, with Giacchino, to pay the Baroness a visit
and to tell her that we expected to leave on Friday for another week in
the mountains. Our post brought us nothing new of interest, and it has
been every way a day without adventures.
Instead of a journey today I find myself obliged to keep my bed, and
after talking the subject over quietly we have decided to give up any
further mountain expeditions for this year, it being already so late and
no probability of my being able to go for some days. Towards evening
when I felt more like myself again Mr Marsh read to me a very
interesting notice of the recent discoveries in chemistry by the famous
Pasteur. His experiments seem absolutely conclusive on the subject te of
equivocal generation and it is hardly probable that it will ever again
find really intelligent supporters. His revelations also with regard to
the process of fermentation are most curious. It sometimes really seems
as if we were getting one step nearer to Naturesâ most precious secrets,
and it is not strange that scientific men sometimes feel as if they had
almost laid their hand upon the very principle of life.
Again we had to bear a disappointment from the post. - no letters
from brother Charles from whom we have been hoping to hear every day for
the last three months. We cannot explain this silence on his part, and
that of all Mr Marshâs family friends, and it is impossible not to say
to ourselves: if he were not ill he would certainly write, if he were
ill, some we one else would. Our own disappointment however was soon
forgotten in the terrible news brought this evening to the gardenerâs
wife - her young brother of twenty three has just been shot at
Cavoretto, mortally wounded, by a Frenchman. The poor fellow was
returning from his dayâs work driving his bullocks before him - our
little Maurizio and another boy following close by him, As he passed the
house of the Frenchman the latter fired upon him with a double-barreled
gun, and then a revolver. The messenger who came for the sister knew
nothing more. The poor woman set off at once with her baby for the
station, but she had hardly been gone ten minutes before the gardenerâs
anxiety about her overcame all the obstacles in the way of going
himself, and he followed her.
Before breakfast this morning we learned that the wounded young man
died before his sister arrived. The parents and indeed the whole family
are quite wild with grief. The assassin has been caught by a brother of
our gardener who pursued him as far as Moncalieri where he caught him
and held him till one of the gendâarm gendarmeria came up. All we can
learn still is that this Frenchman is a man possessing quite a fortune,
that his wife went to Turin Friday and received the dividends on 70000
francs in shares owned by her husband in the Vittorio Emanuele railroad,
that she refused to give up the money to him yesterday when he demanded
it as she knew he was going off on a wild frolic, and would probably
waste it all; that he became furious at this refusal, and threatened to
shoot her, that she made her escape from the house and that he then shot
this young man merely because he was the first object that came within
his reach. Much of this story seems improbable, but nothing more will
transpire I suppose till the trial. One thing is certain the murderer
did not mean to fail as he fired three or four times at least, and
probably any one of the wounds would have been mortal. For the sake of
the family I greatly rejoice that his life was spared long enough to
permit the presence of a priest. This is another instance of the
blindness of all our efforts to save those we love from hardship and
danger. Three months ago this young man was drafted as a conscript, and
his parents and other friends gathered up all the little earning they
had saved for many years and paid the government 3,000 francs for his
release. Mr Artoni came out last evening, and this morning after
breakfast I was strong enough to join the circle in the drawing-room
There was no telegram last night, and we had only Italian matters to
talk over. Mr A. is very sanguine as to the future of Italy, but he
cannot help admitting that there is every now and then some striking
proof that the aristocracy of Turin has not kept up with the great
forward movement. Since the shocking developments with regard to the
Ignorantelli an effort has been made to get up a good school for the
higher classes, or rather for such as can afford to pay well, (there are
already very good public common schools not under the control of the
priests) and it was thought necessary to raise about 50000 francs
($10,000) for the proper buildings &c. The first application was
made to the king, who cheerfully gave them [illegible] 15000 francs, or nearly one third of the
whole sum. Who could believe that after this the remaining 35000 francs
could not be raised in the whole capital! Is it the influence of the
priests, or is it mere love of money? But while such things are
happening in Turin a man dies in a provincial town Pavia, refusing to
receive the usual absolution and sacraments at the hands of the priest.
The latter refuseing burial after death, and upon this the whole
population of the town gathers together and the body is carried by them
to the grave with a fine band of music playing solemn airs and with
every other token of respect. It may well be said that Italy is in a
transition state. Gaetano brought us stirring news in form of a
despatch. A âFort Moltrie [Moultrie],â as Carrie
gaily translates it, âhas jumped into the air!â (Ăš saltata in aria) and
the Federal cannon hold Charleston completely in their powed power. Now
Heaven be praised, and may they not leave, for the sake of common
justice, and as a decent example to future generations, one stone upon
another in that petty little town which has been the fomentor of all
these horrors. When I say that in addition to this news we are assured
that Chattanooga also has fallen it will be understood that Gaetano was
consoled by the remnants of a large punch-bowl. We certainly have no
more ardent sympathizer in Federal victories than this faithful footman
of ours. Last Sunday night when told that he might go home with his wife
and child and that he need not return till next morning, he enquired of
Giacchino whether she were quite sure that there were no new victories,
and that there might not be a bowl of Punch! [Illegible] I had home-letters more than usually
satisfactory, by Mr Marsh had nothing from brother Charles.
Another day has flashed by us leaving no results except in the shape
of certain trifles begun long ago and finished at last - perhaps neither
worth the beginning nor the finishing. Husband brought nothing of
especial interest from Turin - The Saturday Review a little less better
than when we were apparently in greater trouble, - the AthenĂŠum with its
less open ill-will, and the Daily News frank, fair, and manly. The
Opinione tells the story of the failure of the subscription for the
school with evident mortification, but attributes it to the indifference
of those who undertook to raise it, or perhaps rather to the absence of
everybody in villaggiatura. It also speaks of still another discovery of
the infamous doings of the Ignorantelli in a neighboring town the name
of which has escaped me. In the evening we went on with Lord Malmesbury,
and read beside a very funny article on Home, or Hume, and his
spiritism. It is really amazing to see how fearlessly this Revue attacks
the Emperor and all his works - not by name certainly, but in the most
unmistakable manner. It is curious too, to contrast this French
periodical with the English Saturday Review. The former is candid,
earnest and generous, contains articles on the most abstruse subjects
written with a profoundness of research that excites the highest
admiration, and everywhere manifests a thoroughly liberal and
progressive spirit. The latter is unfair, sneering, and selfish, talks
of things it does not understand with a flippant arrogance well
calculated to impose upon those who have searched no deeper than the
writer, and its general tone is that of universal ill-will towards all
the world, and a determination to stick to all the old worn-out usages
of its insular China till the crack of doom, if it lasts so long.
More home-letters this morning, and very satisfactory generally
though we have nothing yet from the source where we are most anxious. Mr
Kasson announces his safe return home and writes rather encouragingly
about our national affairs though he admits that Mr Seward is determined
on making the earliest peace possible without quarrelling about the
peculiar institution. In fact every effort seems to be making by
copperheadism to get back the âUnion as it wasâ. Mr Chase is resolute in
opposing this scheme, but what between the desperate determination of
the old pro-Slavery Democrats and the stupid blindness of the so-called
conservatives and the timidity of a large class of real patriots, there
is no knowing what may happen. Our only certain way of escape from the
danger of having Slavery refastened upon us, lies in the South itself.
âMore madness, Lord, give them more madnessâ must be the prayer of
everyone who looks upon this cursed institution as the cause of all we
have suffered, and as sure if preserved to bring upon future generations
still greater calamities. The spirit of the people of the West, Mr
Kasson says is for the complete uprooting of the whole system - he even
thinks they are prepared to go too far. I donât precisely know what he
means by this, but I am afraid he has a little touch of the so-called
conservatism about him. One piece of domestic information he gives was
very gratifying - his wife, he says is thoroughly cured of her Romish
propensities - may she never have a relapse! His account also of his
presentation to the King of Belgium, his dinner with His Majesty and the
Crown Prince is quite interesting. He would make a first rate Diplomat
with a little more knowledge of French, and I hope he may someday be so
employed by our Government. We spent the morning over the second batch
of proof-sheets from the new book, bringing it down to 130 pages, and we
find it very correctly printed. This evening as we were making some
enquiries as to the gardenerâs plans for the winter we found to our
astonishment that he intended to pass the winter months with his wife
and children in the little stable under the terrace in front of the
library! This stable consists of two compartments the one behind the
other, the interior one being intended for the cow in winter though she
occupies the other in summer. Of course she is driven through the
gardenerâs only room night and morning during all the cold season! The
explanation the gardener gives of this mode of life is that he cannot
afford wood to keep his family warm elsewhere for so many months. We
were really shocked to think that a man who had worked so hard all
summer in the garden and the fields, his wife washing for our household
and her own, and working our doors every spare moment - that these two
could not in this way earn enough to afford a winter fire, but must take
refuse in a stable with light only from two or three panes of glass when
the weather will not permit them to leave the door open. Giacchino tells
me that this is the common practice among the peasants here who have
stables at all, For instance the family who have the charge of the
so-called cascine just opposite us, were still living in the stable when
we came here last April. In this case the family were not even separated
by a partition from the cattle & Giacchino says there were eight
beds (the family is a very large one) all under the same roof and in the
same room with the animals, and so they had lived for nearly six
months.
The rain which began yesterday still continues and the chill autumn
feeling it has brought was not diminished by a message brought us this
morning from Mr Artoni: âThe Countess dâAngennes says the house will not
be ready for you before the 15 of October, and, in my judgment, she
might as well have said, not till the first of November.â Here then we
are without the least chance of getting settled in town before the bad
roads and the cold winter are fairly upon us for the winter. Pazienza! -
Thanks to this good people for that word. I fancy the relief one feels
after having uttered it with unction as our Methodist friends say, is
something like that which a certain class of person feel when they make
use of more emphatic and less christian ejaculations. A little scrap
from F.D. Maurice addressed to Carlyle in the Daily News on the subject
of his American Iliad amused me not a little, and came so Ă propos of
his Gigmanity which we had just been reading in The Diamond Necklace. On
the whole T.C. has been very severely handled both by the English and
American Press for the levity and the falsehood implied in his few words
on the subject of our terrible war. The Italian papers contain
interesting notices of the agricultural fairs which are beginning to be
held in various parts of the Italian kingdom. In Lombardy there have
been some very fine exhibitions - one landholder alone sent in a hundred
yoke of fine oxen, and no less than a hundred and forty beautiful
specimens of different varieties of grape. It is really delightful to
see how fast Italy is coming up with those who have long had the start
of her. Though the great staples of her industry: silk and wine, are
threatened with ruin, and she has in consequence suffered great losses
yet she is rapidly turning her attention to the cultivation of other
things and it is to be hoped in a few years more the agriculturalist
will reap such a harvest from his lands that he can afford to pay his
labourers fairer wages, and that in this way the poverty of the lower
classes may be deminished.
I was very sorry to see this morning an article in the Opinione
evidently inspired by the French government. One year ago this same
paper speaking of the Emperorâs course in Mexico says: âItaly must
forever disapprove of such interference with the internal affairs of
foreign states, or be false to all the principles for which she has
stuggled and bledâ. Today it says: âIf the Emperour and the Arch-duke
Maximilian shall succeed in establishing a strong and stable government
in Mexico they will have done the world a great serviceâ; and in
alluding to the United States it says: âas that government intends
ultimately to possess itself of Mexico so its present policy is to keep
up a state of anarchy and confusion in that unfortunate country.â I do
not give the words but as nearly as possible the spirit of the article.
Of course the opinion of the Italian government on this subject is of no
consequence to us as a nation, but as friends of Italy it is painful to
see the influence of France drawing after it such men as one would
expect even for consistencyâs sake would show more independence. Mr
Artoni tells us that the Perseveranza of Milan, s no less a
semi-official paper, has an editorial today on the same subject quite in
the opposite sense. We have known from the first that some members of
the Ministry were entirely French with regard to our cause, and we ought
not to be surprised to see now and then something that looks unfriendly,
but so much the worse for them. It is so difficult to make Europe
understand that the South is responsible for the filibustering of the
last thirty years, that the real people of our country, in other words,
our country itself, does not want more territory, and that when its
extension is spoken of no one dreams that it is to be by conquest. We
know the value of our institutions, the happiness and the prosperity
they have brought us and we feel sure that ultimately our neighbors will
beg to be allowed to enjoy the same blessings, but until they are
enlightened enough to know their worth and to ask for them we should
consider them only a curse. On the other hand how can it be supposed
that we shall patiently be told by a French usurper âI am going to put a
stop to your further extensionâ? It may be that he cares as little for
the rest of Africa as we for Mexico, but how would he take it if we were
to send an armed force to the borders of his Algerian colony with a
frank declaration that our intention was to prevent him from taking
possession of any more territory on that continent? - I wish these
things did not make one quite so indignant. Mr Artoni arrived to dinner
in the midst of a violent thunder-storm, with wind rain and hail that
made me really tremble for him. He was tutto bagnato but nothing worse.
| Today the papers say not a single death has occurred in Turin.
(Population 250000)
Giacchino has just brought in a little basket of nuts from Marian who
says her poor mother has been crying all day because she had nothing to
give her children to eat. I felt reproached for not having kept a more
careful eye upon them knowing they were so destitute. What is to become
of them this winter is difficult to foresee. Poor things they have not
even a stable to go to. This reminds me to notice that after being so
much shocked to find the peasantry were obliged to live in common with
their cattle during the winter I learned from our Marie who really has
quite a little fortune, that she considered it a very happy thing to be
able to retreat to a stable for the winter, and regretted that they had
no cattle, and consequently no stable! Towards evening I saw the
gardenerâs wife, and had a talk with her. She is much distressed by the
loss of her brother and says her poor old parents will never lift up
their heads again. This evening a fresh telegram gives promise of a near
approach of an outbreak with France, and Charleston not yet in our
hands. However we have seen darker days and I trust in Heaven that we
may yet shake the throne of that impertinent quack who calls himself
Emperor of the French. - certainly neither by the will of God nor the
will of the people, only by the sufference of both.
The American papers contain Charles Sumnerâs speech in New York, the
portion of which relating to foreign affairs has called out so much
indignation in England. It is however as usual in such cases so vilely
printed that no eyes could stand the reading of it. As far however as I
can judge it is really a softened picture of the course our magnanimous
mother has taken during this fiery trial of ours. It must have cost
Sumner no small sacrifice of feeling thus to tell the truth to a Country
where he at least personally has been treated with great consideration
and kindness. But he is not the man to forget personal obligations
though the truth may compel him to say what must be distasteful even to
his best friends. The Turinese journals contain a notice of certain
street hawkers who profess to sell by the authority of the Church
faithful portraits of our Saviour and several saints taken by celebrated
artists during their own lifetime. I shall try to get one of the
handbills if possible, as I like to take home with me the proofs of
things so often denied by Romanists in our country. In our reading today
in one of the concluding chapters of Buckleâs first volume we came
across his explanation of the reasons why Calvinism and Democracy,
Arminianism and aristocracy, generally went together. He says that
Calvinism which secures salvation by faith is a cheaper religion than
Arminianism which rather secures it by good works - that the poor
therefore chose Calvinism, the rich Arminianism! It seems incredible
that a man of Buckleâs intellect and learning could put forth such
childish nonsense as this. It is true that the Swiss were once mostly
Calvinists - it is true that the Puritans were Calvinists - and it may
be considered equally true that Calvinism is Democratic in its tendency
for it certainly encourages that independence of thought which always
leads in that direction, but if Mr Buckle would look a little sharper at
the statistics on which he places so much reliance, he would find that
the Calvinists are not less ready to pay for their religion, to pour out
their money in what he calls good works than any other division of the
christian church. No other certainly has ever voluntarily so generously
supported its pastors, so liberally provided for the instruction of the
young, contributed such immense sums to every imaginable benevolent
object. If they have not erected such magnificent Cathedrals as the
Romish Church has done (and who shall say that Rome is less Calvinistic
than Arminian) yet they have multiplied their little churches in every
corner of the earth to which persecution or an intelligent desire of
improving their own condition and that of others has carried them. It is
not a week since talking with a thinking Italian that he said to me:
âYou want to see the church here as entirely separated from the State as
it is in America, but let me tell you that if our clergy depended as
yours do on the voluntary offerings of the people they would starve.
There is no class of Italians who would do anything to sustain them;
they will not give like you Calvinists. The church might might [sic] now and then get a legacy from a dying man, but
this would be all. Without the government they could not be supported
for six monthsâ, and yet the present practical teaching of the Italian
clergy is certainly in favour of good works, and with them no work so
good as that of giving to themselves. But does Mr Buckle suppose that
the idea of âgood worksâ consists wholly, or even in any considerable
degree in the act of bestowing ones goods? Does he think the poor
Calvinist thinks himself less in a condition to perform âgood worksâ
than the rich Arminian. The learned author is certainly not strong in
theology. In the evening we kept ourselves awake with Carlyleâs Dr
Francia.
Mr Cocchettiâs card roused us very unexpectedly from a German
reading, but we were very glad to see our visitor. Mr Marsh was in Turin
for the day, so our friend decided to wait and dine with us, taking a
walk to see the Baroness in the course of the morning. The Baron only
was at home, and Mr Cocchetti soon returned. We talked over Pegli and
acquaintances there, and learned from Mr C. that poor Campazzi is well
and living on one pupil as usual. Of other friends he pretended to know
no more than we?. He has wandered about widely - Courmayeur, Acqui -
Riquaro - Spezia - Florence &c, is rather improved in health though
far from well. Sir James Hudson, he says, has taken a very large wreck
of a palace on Lago di Garda. The edifice, grand externally, belongs to
an uncle of Mr Cocchetti but the interior was entirely destructed as he
expresses it by the Austrians, and used as a barrack. This palace was
occupied for a time by Lady Montagne, though it is not the one which has
been looked for in vain on the Lago dâIseo. We talked a little of the
French, Mexico, &c and I found what is clearly enough to be seen in
all the Italians one meets, that Mr Cocchetti entertains a hope that
Italy will some how or other get Venice from Austria in exchange for
this new Empire. I donât think they have yet learned anything whatever
of the true character of their wily ally. They donât love him nor trust
him, but they still hope great things from him.
Preparations for our journey into the south of France, and the post,
used up the day very thoroughly. The burthen of the English papers is
still Sumnerâs speech, which they complain of bitterly in general, but
are silent on the subject of his most important facts. The speech may
have a bad effect at home by rousing prematurely the popular feeling
beyond what it was before, but I believe it will do good in England
notwithstanding the outcry they make against it. It will make the
government more careful, and fix the attention of the English nation for
a moment at least upon the possible consequences of the course that has
been pursued. In the evening Mr Marsh read to us Carlyleâs Prinzen-raub.
He is a capital writer to shorten a long rainy autumnal evening.
The weather was so unpromising at six this morning, - the hour at
which we must decide - that we concluded to postpone our journey until
Monday. Husband went out very early to take a look at the clouds and
meeting little Marian with her cow, she said, âCerea, Signore, ha
riposato bene!â He was much pleased with the salutation of the poor
little thing, whose manner, he says, would have done credit to a
high-bred maiden. We never cease to wonder at the native courtesy of the
lower classes in Italy. Carrie passed an hour with the Baroness in the
evening.
Mr Marsh brought from Turin the bad news of Rosenkranzâs [Rosecransâ] check - we fear severe defeat in
Tennessee. It would seems we have not been chastened enough yet. Can we
need much more before every soul among us shall be willing to do away
the accursed thing at once & forever! The Baroness Gautier spent the
evening with us and we discussed Mahomedanism among others things. I
think she got some new ideas that may soften her heart to pity at least
the Musselman, though she may feel none the less sure than before of his
certain condemnation.
We took the morning train for Turin, intending to wait at the
Legation till one when we were to leave for Susa. After greeting Mr Clay
and Mr Artoni I took a carriage to go to Mrs Tottenham, whom I felt I
must see before going away - but we met her on her way to see a friend
at the hotel. She was much overcome and my heart aches for her. Â On my
return to the Legation I found Mr Max MĂŒller was in town, and had sent
to see if he could find Mr Marsh. It was already so late that I
persuaded husband to put off our going to the next train at five. This
gave him an opportunity to pass two pleasant hours with the great man
and his pretty wife, and we were still able to reach Susa in time to
make all necessary arrangements for the morning.
In obedience to telegraph we found young Borgo had a fine carriage
ready for us and we set off this morning at seven for Briançon. For an
hour or more the road, which struck off to the South, was quite as good
as that over the Mont Cenis and the view we thought finer. Every new
zigzag brought us again and again directly over the town of Susa which
certainly gained by distance. The inhabitants of this place had struck
us as remarkably coarse and ill-looking, but the further we proceded up
the Dora the more comely the people became. One girl we noticed in a
little hayfield just by the roadside had a very remarkable face. Her
large dark flashing eyes were set off by a very brilliant complexion,
her n nose delicate in outline, gave great power of expression to her
face by that peculiar spread of the nostrils which shows at once high
spirit and strength of purpose, and there was a curl about her beautiful
lips
Our night quarters proved more tolerable than we had expected - the
dinner was fair, and a strong south wind cleared the atmosphere from
what was most disagreeable - so that when we crossed the bridge over the
Romanche I left unperformed the vow made on first entering the town -
namely, to pierce a hole in the river-wall and give the Bourg at least
one washing. The wind continued very strong for a couple of hours after
we were on our way back, and soon after a fine rain set in & when we
reached La Grave it was almost an ouragan, and a rainy one at that. The
contrast between our passage of this col de Lauteret [illegible] yesterday and today reminded Carrie of
Birdofreedom Sawinâs return over his âhappy morninâ trackâ. Everything,
in fact, was changed except the three or four fine tunnels which had
struck us so much yesterday, and the terrible desolation of the lower
mountains which we could still see - The glaciers were almost entirely
lost. After a long riposo at La Grave we set out for the summit in a
smart rain with a wind that made the carriage tremble, and this
continued all the way to the Hospice on the top. Here we thought Borgo
wished to stay, as it was already half past four, but the temperature
was fast growing colder, and we feared the whole summit of the pass
would be deeply covered with snow before morning. He goodnaturedly
consented to come down an hour, and we drove into Le Monetier just as it
was growing dusk. - Happily for us there was a respectable inn here;
instead of passing through a stable we entered at once a comfortable
little dining room nicely warmed by a very Yankee-looking stove. Our
bedrooms though small were perfectly neat, and there was an air of
comfort about everything. I was delighted to find they could only give
us a chicken, an omelette, and some boiled potatoes for dinner, as, if
they had had more we must have waited for it to be cooked, - a long
waiting as we learned last night. This simple fare was soon ready - some
cheese jellies, and fruits added - and we went to bed satisfied and th
thankful.
No improvement in the weather this morning, indeed we dared not set
out on our journey again while the rain was falling so fast - especially
after we learned that the diligence had been detained five hours in the
night by an eboulement. The torrents too were serious things in this
weather and we resolved to wait for the change that comes so often about
mid-day. In the mean time Alex__ had asked for our bill for the night
and found, rather to his astonishment, that we were changed five francs
apiece for our dinner. In reply to a somewhat energetic remonstrance on
his part the landlord said very curtly, âĂ moins de cinq francs on ne
dine pas chez moi!â and âbesides,â he added more apologetically, âI have
asked only twelve francs for the rooms which is altogether too littleâ.
We ordered the bill to be paid without further parley and seized the
first lull in the storm to set out in search of other, though very
possibly not better, quarters. The country between Serres and Remuzat is
only interesting as an example of the view that may result from an
improvident waste the forest. Every where denuded rocks, vast
mountain-slopes striped of vegetable-mould and pouring down torrents
through the channels worn in their sides, huge mounds of commmuted slate
black as volcanic ashes - all the effect of the rain on a steeply
inclined soil stripped of trees. We passed over some eight or ten
unbridged torrents at most of which several men were at work clearing
out of the road the largest stones brought down by them, filling up the
dangerous gullies they made, and directing the traveller where to pass
cross most safely, Most of them were heavily charged with mud, but many
a bright clear waterfall came bounding down over the hard limestone
crests or burst out through some flinty wall. The sky grew black again
soon after we left Serres, and before we reached the watershed between
the valleys of the Durance & the Rhone we found ourselves in a
driving storm of rain & hail. At last we saw the BlĂšme running one
way and the Aigues the other & hoped the latter would take us into a
milder climate. No great change however was perceptible as we followed
its rapidly rolling mud-waters down to the point where its joined by the
Oule near Remuzat. Here we struck off from the main high way, crossed a
fine new bridge and in a few minutes were in Remuzat where we were to
pass the night. Borgo drew up before an inn of most unprepossessing
aspect, Alex__ asked for rooms, understood there was but one for the
whole party, and thereupon lost his wits. His first order to Borgo was
to turn the carriage round. As I saw from the window that this was
impossible in the narrow street where we were I tried to countermand the
order, but A. utterly deaf, ran off in some other direction; neither
could we make Borgo who was on the box hear through the storm. The
experiment of turning was tried, the horses became unmanageable, dashed
the carriage against the door of the Remise, broke the tongue and our
only remaining window. Fortunately no other damage was done, but Ales.
who had hurried back on seeing the catastrophe, was now more frantic
than ever - âbel lavoro, bel lavoro!â he cried, and we saw no more of
him for the next half hour. In the meantime Mr Marsh went into the
house, found it had capabilities and well disposed inmates. Two small
rooms were shown him, each containing a double bed, and the landlady
promised him a third, not however without having first put the question:
âEst-ce que vous avez quelque chose Ă vendre, Monsieur?â To understand
this question I should previse that Jew-travellers except
commis-voyageurs ever visit this region, and Mr Marsh was extremely
diverted at being taken for a pedlar. We told Giacchino the good news
about the rooms, but she was scarcely more herself than Alex. had been,
and his continued absence really frightened her. We did not like to
mortify him by giving orders for dinner &c ourselves, but were
obliged to at last. The poor fellow finally came back looking decidedly
humble. - He had been more than a mile to look at another house the sign
of which he had seen far down the road across the river - forgetting
that if he had found a palace there we could not get to it with our
carriage - tongue gone, and in such a pouring rain! By degrees he
quieted down, Giacchino finally recovered her composure, our rooms were
settled, as the Irish say, and we were soon at table with a smoking dish
of boiled potatoes before us, some ĂĄlamode beef, a fillet of roast pork,
two pigeons and a partridge. This was a triumph. Then we had excellent
gruyĂšre and a fine dish of grapes to crown the board. It was certainly
not pleasant to be obliged to pass from the dining-room through a
regular old Roman impluvium and then up a very wet and dirty staircase
to our rooms, but when we were once in them they were not so bad. The
beds and linen were clean and comfortable, and we really had the means
of washing face & hands, though the basin would not hold over a pint
of water. I have often seen those of the pudding-dish form before but
never one so Lilliputian.
Rain, still rain, After a council held, we decided to try to get on
as far as Nyons without waiting for the flood to abate. We were the more
anxious to do this as the river was constantly rising, and a long
detention here would be rather serious. Besides we were encouraged by
the post-boy who assured us there were no torrents to pass between
Remuzat and Nyons - that the only danger was from petites pierres which
fell sometimes during rains from the mountains in the gorge. By half
past eight we were rolling down the valley in a brisk rain. The water
was roaring and hissing on all sides of us, and it was not long before
we were in an extremely fine and striking gorge, the walls of which were
of fine-grained limestone, shattered into those large blocks which look
so much like masonry. Here and there the steep sides receded, and a
beautiful waterfall came tumbling out from some ravine behind. In one
instance a large stream of water, clear as crystal, came bounding over
the highest cliff within our view, and shooting like the Staubbach quite
clear of the sides of the rocky precipice over which it leapt; it struck
the rocks however once more before reaching the river, and from that
point it was so like the beautiful lace waterfall we once saw in the
gorge of gondo, that we all made the comparison in a breath. It was
worth a dayâs travel in the rain to see so magnificent a sight - one
that probably could not be seen except in such weather. On one of these
lime-stone ridges, which projected buttress-like into the river, on the
very highest crest stood an old castle ruinous indeed, but still
presenting striking features. On the opposite bank too, further down the
stream was another, still more [illegible]
dilapidated and half covered with dark ivy, [illegible] large masses of which were swaying in the
wind. After leaving the gorge we came suddenly upon the olive which
looked particularly flourishing - we also saw a few fig trees, and the
vines were very abundant. The town of Les Pilles - said to have derived
its name from the Greek, (a gate) and to have been colonized by the
Phocians, consists of a single street, there being no space for more on
the river margin. The valley narrows again here but does not compare in
grandeur with what we saw above. Before entering the town of Nyons, more
considerable and more respectable in appearance than we looked for, one
sees a remarkably fine bridge of the fourteenth century leading to the
opposite bank of the river. We kept to the right of this, and were soon
sheltered in the HĂŽtel des Voyageurs, the best quarters we have had
since we left Gap. A walk to the old bridge was all Mr M. & C. could
do between the drenching showers in the way of exploration, though we
arrived at Nyons before noon.
A violent wind all night and a comparatively clear sky this morning.
Refreshed by the good table & good beds of the Hotel des Voyageurs,
we fixed on eleven this morning to start for Orange - this giving time
for the torrents to be pacified - To eyes accustomed to the olive the
vine and the mulbery the drive between Nyons and Orange offers nothing
of special interest. The surface of the country is undulating, the soil
consists of pebbles and gravel with just enough earth to retain a little
moisture, but even in this the olive and vine thrive well. Just beneath
this superficial soil lies a bed of that fine building-stone used so
much in Paris. It is so soft as to be very easily worked, and on
exposure to the air hardens sufficiently to last for centuries. At the
very entrance of Orange stands the old Roman triumphal arch - one of the
most imposing I have ever seen. It is built of this same soft
lime-stone, but portions of it are still in very tolerable preservation,
and the inside of the arch is wonderfully beautiful in design but
slightly injured by time. We looked at it carefully before going to our
Hotel - de la Porte - and as soon as we had secured rooms there we drove
to the old theatre. The front of this magnificent wall is certainly very
impressive, and viewed from within the effect though different is hardly
less striking. But the perfect hurricane which was blowing, and a
tedious old guide nearly spoiled our pleasure. There is little else to
see in Orange and if there had been I was decidedly too ruffled to look
for it, and we came home to dinner. In the evening we learned to our
great satisfaction that the Gasparins are actually here and in the
paternal mansion only a few doors from our hotel.
I was not able to go out this morning, and left the doing of Avignon
to Mr Marsh and Carrie. The first trouvaille was a choice old enamel
which we secured for Mary for her friends the Bulls. If we may believe
the Jew-owner we snatched it from the hands of John Bull to transfer it
to those of Harry. The treasure being sent safe to the hotel they went
to Villeneuve to see the tomb of Pope Inocent VI and so on to all the
plans the sage Murray recomends, and to some that he does not. For
instance to the fine old bridge, or rather ruin of a bridge, four fine
grand arches of which still remain. They returned with a portfolio of
photographs, and flushed with the hurricane that still blows, but much
pleased with their morningâs lionizing. We dined again at five and very
well too, though we did not have the very fine Isabella grapes which had
surprised and pleased us so much the evening before. We thought them
much finer than any we had ever seen in America and even superior to
those from our vines at PiĂČbesi.
Last night we were condoling with each other on the necessity of
leaving Arles without visiting Les Baux which Murray makes so tempting,
and the old Abbey of Montmajeur, when a sudden inspiration came upon one
of us and it was proposed to set off in a little carriage for Les Baux
at an early hour this morning, explore its ruins, take a look at the
Abbey on our way back, then drive at once to the railway-station and
join our own carriage which in the mean time was to make its way with
the servants & baggage to Aix. We also hoped to reached Aix in time
to take another carriage and get a sight of the new acqueduct of
Roquefavour before dark. To carry out this brilliant programme we rose
at five this morning & set off on our escapade fasting. The road was
badly cut up by teams from the quarries hundreds of which we met, and as
we bribed our man of the whip to make good speed we were wofully shaken
up by the time we reached the foot of the the limestone ridge crowned by
fragments of the old walls & towers of Les Baux, We zigzaged slowly
up the steep hill and found ourselves in the midst of a scene the like
of which I had not thought could be found this side of Idumean Petra. In
every respect it is certainly vastly inferior to the ancient City of the
Rock - the excavations are are comparatively nothing, the extent of the
ruins insignificant, but there is something to reall recall almost every
feature of the former. Every where advantage had been taken of the rock
to save the labour of the mason - now it seems to form a portion of a
wall, now a chamber now a whole habitation. Even the same pigeonhole
like excavations which have so much puzzled the antiquaries at Petra are
here. And there is the same general air of desolation though less in
degree. Had the white glaring rock been stained with those brilliant
colors which make crumbling Petra as mournfully gay as a New Eng. autumn
I could have fancied myself once more in some humble corner of that
âplace of tombs.â We found however that nothing could be more mistaken
than the idea we had taken from Murray. It is not less interesting than
he makes it, but not in the least in the same way. For details, historic
and other, of Les Baux see pamphlet found there written by Canonge. Old
monument of kneeling knight in the church - date 14th century -
inscription partly read backwards.
We drove through the principal street of PiĂłbesi with its gazing and
greeting occupants about 4 oâclock this yesterday afternoon & were
welcomed by at the castle-door by our whole household including Carlo
with his arm in a sling. He looks pale but is now quite free from fever
and makes good use of his right hand as our dinner proved The poor
fellow had the narrouest escape with his life, his face having been
severely singed, his hat blown half a cross the garden, and fragments of
the gun being hurled in every direction. The Dr says he will not lose
even a finger. Every thing else has moved on prosperously. Our poor sick
girl has been carried safely to the Hospital & is said to be im
proving. Alex. also says that the mad Marchese promises the Casa
dâAngennes for next thursday the 5th Nov. [illegible] We were so happy to be quietly at home
once more and to have found no bad news in store for us. Our letters
from home-friends were as cheerful as we could have looked for. But we
found so much writing waiting for us. The sister of our poor hospital
patient came to us quite overcome by her gratitude. âI have no words! I
have no words!â said the good creature, âbut my sister will get well!
she will get well!â I have tried to save the family from disappointment
by telling them we did not expect her to get entirely well, only to be
made more comfortable.
While Mr Marsh was Turin to-day - Carrie having gone there also to
make some combinations about her friend Miss Tottenhamâs wedding. I
received the syndic, Lord mayor as A. calls him, of PiĂłbesi. He came to
welcome us back and brought an offering of choice fruits and flowers.
While talking with him & thanking him I could help wishing our good
N. E. farmers, artisans etc would add to their other many virtues this
one of courtesy which gives such a charm to the common life of Italy. Mr
Marsh came back with Dr Monnet who is now regarded with great admiration
by the PiĂČbesans I was surprised to learn from the Dr. that he thinks so
favourably of the case of our protegĂše - he says she will be nearly if
not quite cured - that he saw her eat nearly half a kilo of meat at once
- that in fine she is âbien decidĂše Ă de se guerieâ. Our door was
thronged with people trying to get an opportunity to speak to the
Dr.
I went to Turin with Mr M. this morn. expressly to see Mme Sartiges
who, [illegible] we heard, was to go with her
husband & family to Paris before going to Rome. To my satisfaction I
found she is not to leave for a week & I may hope to see her once
more in the Casa dâAngennes if our perverse landlady does not play us
some new trick. Mrs Sartiges is simple & unaffected in manner &
I am truly sorry they are going away. It would be very pleasant to have
two of my country women in the D. corps, and Mrs S. seems a true patriot
& declares Mr S. is most friendly to the cause of our Gov. We left
C. with the Tottenhams to help about the wedding prep. and returned at
mid-day. The Baroness passed the evening with us, brought a beautiful
bouquet and was as lovely as ever.
We We began to take up carpets and make ourselves uncomfortable today
as the Dame dâAngennes still perseveres in saying the inventory may be
taken tomorrow & that we may take possession at once. Alick sent
especially to enquire for fear she might have changed her mind and that
he might make a trip to Turin for nothing. A note was brought from the
Baroness to Carrie today with the largest and most beautiful bouquet of
flowers I have ever seen. It was sent from Genoa to the Baroness de
Gautier whose fĂȘte it is today; and she was kind enough to transfer it
to our C. who bears the same christian name. The bouquet was so large
that we could not pass it through the door which freely admits our
crinoline, and we were obliged to open another leaf!
A. returned from Turin tonight bringing back Carrie but in a high
state of indignation against the Ghirardi who really seems determined to
try our patience beyond human endurance. When he presented himself
before her this morning she exclaimed - âMa perchĂš siete venuto? Io non
sono pronta! Mi bisogna la cucina ancor due giorni o di fini.â A. said
âbut Madam, I came at your orders to take the inventory. Even yesterday
you told our messenger you would be quite ready.â âAh, Dio mio, si! Ma
non sono pronta, vi dico, E poi - e poi - ah, bisogna che io abbia fatto
qualche gran peccato in questo mondo per essere cosi tormentata!â She
then went on to rail about her workmen and I have no doubt she has had
trouble enough with them - and they not less with her - and declared
they had driven her mad and that she should start for Sinigalia tomorrow
without fail. Quâelle sâen aille vite! So here we are again. The witch
wont hear of the inventory till Sunday and we must make the most of our
bare brick floors in the meantime. We might be pardoned for wishing that
the mason who chased this woman with his trowel the other day had laid
her up long enough for us to get settled. The Baroness again spent the
evening with us, and condoled us in our vexations. She says all Turin is
talking about the way we have been treated from first to last &
would wonder at our patience if it were not well known how next to
impossible it is to get a house on any terms. Indeed we would renounce
our bargain with M. Ghirardi at once if we could do anything else, but
we cannot afford to pay 30,000 frs per annum. as it is said the Elliots
do. By the way, the English papers are still quarrelling about the facts
as to Sir James Hudsonâs recall, but I think few persons doubt,
not-withstanding Lord Russelâs solemn & most emphatic denial, that
he was made to feel by the latter that his resignation was expected. The
king is to leave for Naples on saturday. Mr Marsh would go if possible,
but does not see how he can, Clay will go at any rate.
Gaetano brought from Turin this morning a letter from the Contino,
saying that his mad mother had gone to Senigallia & had left him
âentierement libreâ to do as he liked about the house. He tells us we
may have it at once, so to-morrow we begin to send all boxes. What a
relief! May the old proverd [proverb] about the
3 days hoar-frost fail this time - we should be sadly put out by a rain
in the morning or worse yet by its overtaking our boxes on their
way.
Two cart-loads of books etc were started for Turin this morning &
A. & G. went down in our PiĂČbesi establishment to receive them at
the Casa dâAngennes. They returned in the evening bringing as good a
report as we could expect. Young Gherardi dâAngennes was very amiable
and really seems to be trying to attone for his motherâs vexatious
behaviour. The day has been a fine specimen of Indian summer weather.
Some packing & more work for the wedding took up the whole day for
C. & Myself.
It is so bright and sunny, so calm & so quiet here to-day that we
shall feel doubly sad to exchange all to-morrow for the shade the noise
and the hurry of the town. I thought when we left Pegli last spring that
we could never hope for another period in our lives so quiet as we had
enjoyed there - and our summer has been even more so. Now it seems to me
as if we were about to enter the busy world to find little repose from
it again until our life-work is ended - may this impression prove as
mistaken a one as did the former.
After an early breakfast, & a hurried one at that we left the
castle for Turin, servants, except Gaetano, staying behind to see to
loading of last carts & shutting up. I left Mr M. at the Leg. &
drove with C. towards the Tottenhams - met them on the way, found the
wedding was actually to come off tomorrow - went back to Leg. & took
up Mr M - all went together to Casa dâAngennes. And here we are again
after fifteen months once more in our first Italian home. It is improved
in many respects but much of the elegant furniture has been almost
ruined, many a splendid trifle broken & nearly all the show
knicknacery that has escaped destruction has been confiscated by the
Gherardi & has disappeared. The young Count came to ask if all was
right and we were glad to be able to y say, âyesâ. We shall have much,
very much to buy, but this was understood. As soon as Giachino came from
P. I took her out with me to get a bridal present for Miss Tottenham -
found a beautiful set of pale coral earrings & a brooch for sixty
francs - took them, left notes with Madame Sartiges, returned, went over
to Hotel Feder, all of us to dine, had tea at home & went to bed too
tired to sleep.
All progress in getting settled was put a stop to by the wedding.
Both Giachino & Gaetano were given over to the service of the
bridesmaid. The carriage took her off at ten and brought her back at 1/2
past 1. Bride said to have looked very lovely - every thing to have gone
right. The E. Legation was filled with spectators - friends of course,
but uninvited. The bride & groom leave for Genoa to-night. After Câs
return all hands were put to hard duty & we made advance in clearing
out boxes etc but we shall be in confusion for a month. To-night when I
went to bed Giachino told me of the joy my gift of blankets & other
flannels had caused to poor Marianneâs mother & the gardenerâs wife.
She says she could hardly get away from them. I am really ashamed that
the very little we could do, or rather did do, for the poor of PiĂČbesi,
should have been so noised abroad. Had we practiced a little more self
denial we might have really done something more effectual, but we
indulged ourselves in our journeys & when the autumn came, the
salary was gone - and yet they are so grateful for the little - may
Heaven forgive us that it was no more!
Wardrobes, writing-desks, tables, chairs, pictures &c have been
travelling about the house in the livliest way all the morning - some
cases of collision, but no serious catastrophe. Mrs Sartiges came in to
say goodbye - not less in a hurry than ourselves as she leaves town
tomorrow morning. I am sorry, though it must be admitted the grief of
the Turinese is not great at the departure of the count. There is a new
story in circulation about his meanness which has gone as far as England
and come back again in the E-journals - that he refused to pay for the
injury done to a carriage by collision, and applied appealed to the
Minister of Foreign Affairs. The Minister said he had nothing to do with
it and referred him to the prefet. The prefet denied that it was his
concern. Whether the count paid in the end or not does not appear. With
the help of the Revue des Deux Mondes and Madame Colletâs LâItalie des
Italiens we managed to get through with a long evening.
Today we made the usual discoveries on taking possession of a house
that has been repaired - damp walls, smoking chimney or no chimney at
all. Mr Marsh was completely driven out of his room, and the darkness of
the day helped to dispirit us. Alas! what can all this gilding, all this
painting, all these mirrors, all this satin, and all this embroidery do
to compensate for the glorious sunshine and song of the open country.
For my part, thankful as I am that we are here since we must come her, I
already pine for the light of heaven we left behind us.
Young Luigi Kossuth came in this morning while we were deep in
Janetâs article on German materialism, in the August number of the Revue
des Deux Mondes. We talked Poland and Hungary of course & had
another laugh at the expense of poor old King Arpad alias, Chuy-chanel,
who has lately sued the Duke of Modena for assuming one of his (Arpadâs)
titles, Duke of Este. Among the other discoveries made by this claimant
of the Hungarian throne is this - that the first wife of Julius Ceasar
was a Kossuth, daughter of Lucius Kossucius, consul etc. We finished
Janets article after our visiter left us, and liked it much. It is
wonderful how superior the French are to the English in this species of
writing.
As soon after breakfast as innumerable interruptions would permit us
we drove out in search of carpets &c. - managed to spend a good deal
of money in the course of an hour - though grudgingly - I returned with
Mr Marsh, and, though feeling very unwell, took up C__ . and G__ . and
proceeded to get Carrieâs winter outfit. At one of the shops they
persisted in showing nothing but English goods, and when I asked for
French fabrics they said - âBut all our newest and best things are
English - nobody buys anything but what is English - in short the whole
nation is going Protestant.â On our return I told Mr and Mrs Tottenham
when they came in what I had heard, and though I do not suppose they
took the shopmanâs words literally, they were evidently pleased. They,
at least, are not sorry for the late change in the English Embassy,
though I do not know whether they take the side of Sir James or Lord
Russell on the question between them. - The illness of the King of
Denmark excites much anxiety among the friends of that country, as his
death might have a very unfavorable effect on the Schleswig-Holstein
dispute. Mr Elliot writes that the reception of our King at Naples was
everything a King could desire, and I hope his visit there may do good.
- Poor Miss Arbesser has just received news of the death of her father
as she tells me in reply to my note sent with patterns from England for
the Principe [Princess] Marguerite
The morning was consumed in superintending the matching of carpet
patterns, selection of rugs, writing notes &c. Mr Artoni spent the
evening with us. I told him that Mr Marsh had found a new word for a
secularized priest - un prete spretato - he laughed and said âyou know
that Garibaldi says - âbisogna snapoleonizzare lâ Italia.â The death of
the king of Denmark is announced today. Great sorrow and anxiety, even
alarm, is said to prevail in Copenhagen. The late King was not well
spoken of when he came to the throne and his domestic life would
indicate something wrong, but he has succeeded in making himself a
popular King. His uncle Frederic-Ferdinand, who succeeds him has still
more doubtful rights in Schleswig-Holstein, and trouble is feared. The
Congress, to judge from newspaper discussions, is not rising in public
favour. Another subject of much debate and quarrelling is the Suez-canal
which Lesseps declares will go on in spite of the opposition of the
pasha stirred up as everybody believes him to be by English intrigues.
England seems really in a fair way not only to be hated by the whole
world as a power but to bring upon herself such a storm of indignation
as will greatly affect her influence, if it does not injure her material
prosperity.
Mr Clay made his appearance this morning after a ten days absence,
and we were not a little surprised to find he had been to Caprera to see
Garibaldi. He is much pleased with his visit, the day he spent with the
general compensating fully for three days of grievous sea-sickness and
two days among the miserable fishermen
Garibaldiâs letter to some friends in the Neapolitan province who are
trying to get up a monument for him, is most characteristic. The
substance is âwhile two foreign armies are encamped on the soil of
Italy, while the blood of her sons shed by brigands is reddening her
highways, while Italian peasants suffer hunger and Italian children are
without schol schools let me not hear of monuments - least of all, a
monument to me.â
From the piazza of the Monte dei Capucini Mr Marsh saw this morning
the famous spectre of the Brocken. It was so distinct that he could
distinguish his hat and even his cane as he raised it or let it
fall.
C. and I lost nearly the whole day from having no room in which we
could sit down with a fire. Our own cabinet was in the hands of a
chimney-sweep and a fumista - the drawing room was being swept and
garnished, the chimney in my own bedroom smoked too intolerably to allow
of a fire - Carrieâs bedroom had a stove-pipe connected with our working
cabinet and shared the confusion of the latter - Mr Marshâs room is
still so damp that there is little comfort in it, and besides carpenters
or paperers or fumisti or tailors are perpetually coming and going
there. Altogether it was an evil day and we went to bed with the
mournful reflection that not a single room was yet in thorough order
Our domestic disorder increases rather than diminishes. The running
to and fro, this morning, of carpenters, fumisti &c with all their
arnese has completely upset the small quantity of brains left intact by
a terrible cold. Poor husband was entirely dislodged and went out to
make visits leaving a palsied old carpenter at work in his cabinet who
had spent three hours in measuring the length of a single shelf and in
sawing off the two ends. In the course of his visits he learned some
curious facts with regard to Sir James Hudson and the late English
Legation generally. An English gentleman very friendly to Sir James
personally and recognizing some very important services rendered by him
to Italy, declares that there were several causes united which
occasioned his removal. That Lord Russell was glad to have an
opportunity to provide for a connection he admits, but he says that the
grossly immoral life led by Sir James and his suite had become so
notorious as to be complained of by almost every respectable Englishman
who visited Turin, that even the common city police had brought
complaints against the Embassy. As to the services rendered Italy by Sir
James this gentleman thinks they have been greatly exaggerated by letter
writers who found their flattery paid well. He alluded to one
circumstance, or rather one statement often repeated by the English
journals with regard to the friendships existing between Sir James and
Cavour - that Sir James was with the Minister almost constantly during
his last illness and that he died in his arms. Mr Marshâs informant says
that Sir James himself told him that he never saw Cavour from the time
they dined together on a fine fish the day before Cavour became
seriously ill - and for the best of reasons, namely that he left town
immediately after this dinner and returned only when it was too late.
The English gentleman claims for Sir James the most manly political
creed and practice, but says his private life was a most pernicious
example to Italy, and a disgrace to England. Alas, alas, alas for
appearances, and whom can one believe and trust in this so-called high
life! We had Judge Dyer and Mr Davisson, the Gajanis, Clay and Artoni to
dine with us by way of keeping the national Thanksgiving. It was very
pleasant in spite of a little smoke and the absence of the mince-pies
and pumpkin-pies. The two travellers had much to tell us of their own
personal experiences and that of their friends in the dreadful scenes
through which our country had passed since we left it. Dr Davisson told
me he had, or had had, thirty three relatives in the Army, many of whom
had already laid down their lives, and he gave me some most touching
incidents connected with some of them. His account of a couple of hours
spent in a Church filled with wounded soldiers from the rebel army was
very moving. Judge Dyer has thirteen or fifteen nephews, I am not quite
sure which, now in the army. He had many interesting things to tell us
of what he had witnessed on the African coast, and he assured us that
the hanging of Gordon had produced a shock among the Slave dealers that
had extended as far as Timbuctoo, and that it had done more towards
putting down the Slave trade than a dozen fleets could have done. With
Gajani we talked over the Congress and the new coast treaty with France
Mr Marsh expresses his astonishment to every Italian he meets at the
obsequiousness of this government towards the Emperour. It is really sad
to see it drifting completely under his guns. Everybody believes that
the Congress is a great hum, but the Denmark question looks blacker
every day. I had a nice talk with Mrs Gajani about old friends, and
learned from her many interesting little items. Mr & Mrs Gajani go
to the Waldensian Church and propose to become communicants in it. Mr
Artoni had a very unpleasant story to tell us of an American calling
himself Thompson who with his wife mother and very beautiful sister who
had been living for two months in private lodgings in the via Dora
Grossa, and had just left, leaving not only rent unpaid, but having
actually borrowed money of his landlady. As people of this stamp very
naturally do not come to the Legation we had heard nothing of them when
the injured landlady brought in her complaint.
Before I could get through with a short morningâs work and finish
dressing, Mr Tottenham and his son came in, and Mr Solvyns soon after.
Young Tottenham whose officer-life has been for the most part in China,
laments the course of his government in changing sides in the Chinese
civil war, and taking the part as they now do, of the Emperor. He thinks
the only chance of progress for China is the success of the
revolutionary party. It is bad enough he admits, but under its rule,
improvement would be possible. Mr Solvyns commends warmly Lord Russellâs
part of the correspondence between the French and English governments on
the subject of the Congress. The last letter is very good certainly, but
the first does not strike me as very able. Why did he not confine
himself simply to an expression of the confidence of his government in
the good intentions of the Emperor and to the questions what were to be
the subjects discussed, and how far were the decisions of the Congress
to be binding, and by what means were they to be carried out? Instead of
this, he in the first place argues against the Congress, betrays an
evident intention to have nothing to do with it, and then puts these
questions. It seems to me the other course would have been much simpler
and given less occasion to the bitter outcry which the refusal has
brought upon England from so many quarters. I did not however express
this opinion to Mr Solvyns as with even so enlightened a man as he, it
is wiser for a woman not to venture criticisms in such cases. The war
prospect was of course discussed. Everybody hopes it may be avoided,
nobody sees how. The Minister of Foreign Affairs told Mr Marsh yesterday
that the United States had proposed to the Italian Government to buy the
two frigates built for the latter by Webb, but that, while they were
anxious for our success, and desirous to oblige us if possible, yet to
give up these two frigates would be as serious an evil to them as if we
were to send âtwenty thousand men to the Dalmatian coast to aid Austria
in its defence.â He evidently meant to be understood that Dalmatia was
the point to which the Italians were now looking. In the evening we had
the Monnets, and enjoyed their visit very much. They are so intelligent
and so much in earnest.
Mrs Tottenham and girls called this morning and took Carrie to the
Vaudois fair, - like all the fairs here, the poorest of shams compared
with ours, but the people give and they accomplish their ends. It snowed
quite fast most of the day, always melting in the streets but resting on
the roofs. Madame de Castro came in towards evening and sat half an
hour. She is more than amiable, she is sensible and bright, and yet all
we had to say to each other were friendly words of enquiry about health
&c. then the a little talk about the young Queen of Portugal, her
beau garçon of a husband, their domestic happiness, and the fĂȘting tour
on which they now are; After this followed a history of the Diplomatic
ladies who had gone and come since we met, the number of court balls
given last winter and the number that probably would be given this, then
a goodbye with a resolution to talk English when we met again - and then
the good lady went off to her carriage, sighing to herself I dare say -
ânow I must go somewhere else in all this miserable weather to say over
the same things I have said here,â while I sighed too to think that we
two who might really have heartily loved each other under certain
circumstances should probably never know any or care any more about each
other than we now do though we may meet once a week for a
twelve-month.
I have about resigned myself to consider the winter as thrown away as
to any special purposes of my own. The chimney of my woking [working?] cabinet proves incorrigible, Mr Marsh is
always [illegible] exposed to visitors, often
business ones, and I am never safe in his study for a moment, the dining
room is a thoroughfare to his apartments, as is the little boudoir, and
I cannot be in the drawing room except when dressed, and besides it is
so dark then that knitting-work is the only work possible. I grumbled
the day away - in the evening we had a pleasant reading till nine
oâclock, then talked with Miss Arbesser till eleven. With all her fine
intellect and varied reading I see the wretched effects
of the European system of education on both her head and her heart.
It is now about fifteen days since she heard of her fatherâs sudden
death, and she now asks me for amusing books, âfor,â says she, while the
tear gathers in her eye âI cannot read grave books now; I really cannot,
they make me too sad. I have been reading Lichtenbergs satires since
this blow came upon me - they are really very funny!â - OhimĂš! I must
not forget to mention that poor little Mrs feeble-mind De Zeyck came
here this morning to get some advice from husband about her estate. She
brought a paper from her agent showing that since her motherâs death
(about two months ago) that most consumate of rascals DaĂŻnese has laid
claim to Mrs De Zeyckâs portion of the inheritance and is likely to get
it. The only advice to be given her was to hurry home as soon as
possible, and there consult able counsel. I hope it is not already too
late. Hitherto I have only judged of this woman from report - now I am
satisfied that great mental weakness and an utterly untutored
conscience, or rather a conscience overlaid by a thoughtless life and
the thoughtless example of those about her, explain all the mysteries of
her conduct. But she is very pitiable.
The whole morning, with the exception of a little time after
breakfast given to the papers, was spent in letter-writing, and that too
of letters of mere dull routine. Besides having a visit from the
Gilettas we found a few minutes for German, and then it was three
oâclock and dark. A certain Mr Grey, who professed to have important
matters of concern to the government to talk over with Mr Marsh got
fifty francs from him by way of helping him on to Paris. He states that
he has been employed by Mr Adams in London and also by Mr Morse the
consul, but Mr Marsh thinks him partially insane. In the evening a
naturalized America, Italian born, came for a passport with his wife and
child. He brought away from the battle of Bull Run a ball in his
shoulder, returned to Italy with his American wife, and remained here
till his severe wound was thoroughly healed. He now starts again for
America with his handsome wife and beautiful child, and intends to go
into the service of the government once more. He is an engineer by
profession. Mr Artoni took tea with us. He does not think the civil
marriage bill will be passed this year, but says the public opinion is
going on rapidly in the right direction.
Every fresh telegram makes General Grantâs victory over Bragg more
and more important, and it really does seem as if the rebellion was
nearly finished off. A few more energetic strokes
would do the work. The Marchesa Arconati on her visit this morning
expressed the strongest interest in the triumph of our government, but
she has evidently been biased by the English Times so far as to half
believe its declarations that the reconstruction of the Union is
impossible. She is a noble woman & an honour to any country. Miss
Arbesser came with her. Mrs Solvyns came in to compare visiting-lists
with me and to give me what information she could as to social changes
in the last fifteen months. But night overtook us before we could make
much progress in the terrible roll. I was much pleased to find that Mrs
Solvyns could be otherwise than stiff and solemn. PiĂČbesan Molina spent
the evening with - came with the double purpose, or rather triple one of
paying his respects, selling his library to Mr Marsh, and renting his
country-seat to him next summer. His pronounciation of French is very
diverting. Under all circumstances he gives ch the sound of s - une
charmante chanson is, with him une sarmante sanson
The Countess Menabrea and daughter were scarcely seated with us this
morning when Deputato Levi was announced. For a moment I felt a real
disappointment as I wished to have our first visitors by themselves, but
it went off very well as the Countess managed with great tact to show
neither political nor religious aversion to the opposition-Jew-deputy.
We talked a little of spiritism after having first discussed the late
American news, and I was really struck to find the Countess so well able
to hold up the absurdity of these falsest of all pretenders. The ladies
left first, and after a well-merited tribute to the beauty and grace of
both mother and daughter, Levi said âand the Countess is thoroughly
liberal too while Menabrea himself is a bit of a Jesuit.â He then handed
me a book he has just published - Democrazia e Papismo. - After this we
talked of the late excitement in Parliament, the difficulties between
Bixio and Crispi, the troubles in the southern provinces &c, and in
general he sustained the government. He then told me of the rapid
progress of the new religious society whose members are Known as the
Pauliti, and states that Gen Menabrea has the name of being at the head
of this second edition of Jesuitism. I do not believe a word of this. I
then mentioned Madame Gasparinâs book: Corporation religieuse au sein du
Protestantism and asked him if he knew it. What was my surprise to hear
this Ebrew Jew, and supposed to be an infidel besides break out in the
warmest expressions of admiration and respect towards this Genevan
Calvinist. âMadame di Gasparin! qui ne la connais pas? Câest le plus
noble coeur de lâEurope. Câest une intelligence des plus hautes.â
Mr Marsh went at eleven Vegezzi-Ruscalla lecture on Wallachian
literature, and had a long talk with him after the lecture was over. He
is a man of rare learning. I shall try to go to the next lecture myself.
About one oâclock Mr George W. Hodges & family came in. They are on
their way to Rome, and I intrust to them the daguerreotype of our
idolized Florence from which Mr Stillman promises to do what he can.
Madame Giletta called to see about providing Mrs De Zeyck with a maid to
go with her to America.
We had scarcely more than five hours of daylight today, and very dim
daylight at that. Of course one can do nothing, with the constant
interruptions we are subject too when the days are so short. Dr Eaton
used up the latter part of the day for us, and before he left Prof.
Capellini of Bologna (geologist) presented himself, fresh from a three
monthâs collecting tour in America. He brought letters from Agassiz. He
is certainly of igneous origin himself, still in an state of white heat
- his eyes flamed like stars when he talked of anything professional. He
says his collection will be superiour to any in Europe except that of
the Jardin des Plantes. He came to us from Prince Amadeo to whom he had
taken care to say that as he had made his collection at his own private
expense he intended to keep it to himself for the present, giving the
public the benefit of it of course.
Mr Marsh went off early this morning with the other gentlemen of the
Diplomatic Corps to hunt at Racconigi. His little practice of two or
three times a year is quite bringing him up again as a marksman. He
brought down four pheasants and two hares, and his attendant got seven
pieces more, though I do not remember the proportion of hares and
pheasants. In the division of the game however eight pieces only were
sent to us, as so many of the gentlemen were unfortunate enough to bag
nothing, and had to be provided for out of the common treasury. Mr Marsh
took the measure of Mr Elliot today, and does not think him a giant. C.
and I had no interruptions except visits from the Tottenhams and from
the Solvyns
Madame P__. gives glowing accounts of the progress of Naples, says
that of the 14,000 beggars that used to swarm the streets, all are
provided for in some way, and no more harass and distress the stranger
who visits the city. There is plenty of work for all who will work,
plenty of schools for young and old. She herself went over these schools
with one of the inspectors. The railroads she thinks are advancing with
wonderful rapidity, and this is proved by all their reports. She has
also been in Rome, in Pisa, and Florence, and would have had a vast deal
to tell me about many other things, had we not been most unfortunately
interrupted by the Spanish minister Duro, and his secretary. She took
her leave soon after they came in, with a lively promise to come back
very soon. With the gentlemen I went through with the ordinary
commonplaces, then talked a little of American affairs in answer to
their questions, and assented to a little abuse of the English which
they plainly enough intended as a sweet morsel for me; Duro, speaking of
our army and navy said that what we had done was prodigieux, -
colossale, and said, âI suppose you will keep them up now by the way of
a rod over the heads of the rest of us!â
Nearly the whole day was used up in making out lists and distributing
cards. Carrie and I left about seventy between two and five. The weather
was most lovely, and yet damp from a fog which rose a few feet above the
earthâs surface. The sun was almost scorching and from the effect of the
moisture in the atmosphere the whole circle of the horizon was as rosy
at three oâclock as is the western sky at a summer-sunset. We missed a
few visitors by being out, - The Danish Minister among others, but I
dare say this gentleman enjoyed more his talk in Danish with Mr Marsh
than he would have done had we been present.
We went this morning, taking Ms Gajani, to the university, expecting
to hear one of Ruscallaâs lectures. After waiting half an hour beyond
the appointed time we were surprised and amused by the entrance of a
procession formed of the âchiarissimi dottori dellâ Universitaâ in their
professional gowns and badges and headed by a quaint old beadle with his
huge mace of office. They escorted a young man up to a sort of pulpit
which he ascended in white kid gloves and white neckcloth. The
professors then took their seats in a line in front of the pulpit with a
long desk before them, on which were writing-materials, etc. We were
then presented with a brochure which explained what was about to take
place - the young gentleman in the pulpit was to be examined
Mr Marsh dined at the Ministero this evening He tried to bring to the
notice of Venosta what he had previously done to that of Sella - the
fact that the sugar-cane was once so successfully cultivated in Sicily,
and that there was no apparent reason why it should not be grown there
now and most profitably. He also tried to stir up Count Sclopis to the
importance of making some good roads on the Collina. This is the first
time he has met Amari, and the impression he made was agreeable.
Cibrario he has never liked.
for the degree of Dr. of Laws. The examination consisted in the
discussion of certain propositions, or theses. Some one of the
professors announced the proposition which he declared himself ready to
defend against the young candidate who said what he could on the other
side. The whole thing had evidently been carefully studied up by all
parties beforehand. The young man had even his references to different
sections of the Code all turned down at the right page, such references
being his answers to the supposed extempore [illegible] arguments of his opponent - On the whole
it was a decided farce, for us of the laity at least, and I think it was
little better in the opinion of all present. I would have liked
immensely however to have carried off a good photograph of that row of
professors with the solemn beadle in front of them making a profound
reverence now to one, now to another according as it was time for the
one to end his speech and another to begin. Some of these professors
were young spirited-looking fellows, but the larger proportion were
passed middle age, and had the most comical phizes I have ever seen. We
were glad to get out at the end of the hour, for our stock of gravity
was by that time quite exhausted. We brought away the brochure for the
diversion of some of our legal friends at home. After a drive around the
Piazza, I returned in time to receive Mr Astengo, and settle with him
about his daughterâs joining Carrieâs dancing-class. Later Mr Sella came
in, and we were glad enough to have a nice long talk with this gifted
and very intelligent man. He is to go down with Giorgini in a few days
to pay a visit to Ricasoli, who wants them to witness the working of
some of his newly-imported steam-machines, intended to be used for
agricultural operations on the Maremme.
The dancers with mammas and nurses made their appearance before C-
and I were really ready for them though we had been hurrying matters all
the morning. The Countess Gigliuicci (Clara Novello) was among the
first, and after an hours talk with her I decidedly came to the
conclusion that she is an acquaintance worth cultivating. She is a
little positive in her conversation, and does not feel her way as to the
opinions of her interlocutor, but she is frank, and fearless, and
clear-headed, and witty. She says she has been devoting herself for a
year or two past chiefly to German literature, and the conclusion she
has arrived at are not very flattering to the Teutons. She declares
Göthe to be a colossal wind-beutel filled with vanity and humbug. I
asked what she had read of Göthe and found she had made very unfortunate
selections so far as English and American taste is concerned. I begged
her to read some of his tragedies and certain other poems before she
renounced him and denounced him altogether. She talked much of her
sister Mrs Cowden Clark in whom she feels great pride. When Mr Astengo
came in with his beautiful young daughter, the conversation of course
became Italian, and she grew very sprightly. In talking of the ages of
the girls who composed the class Madame Gigliucci spoke of her own early
companions and of such as were of her own precise age. These last she
declares fell several years behind her before she was thirty, that on
arriving at that age she resolved to wait for the others to come up - ed
io ci sto benissimo! I am told her voice has lost little or nothing of
its early magic, and I hope we may hear us sing before the winter is
over. The Countess Castagnetto came soon after the dancing began with
her two daughters who wished to see Carrie. I was very sorry to be
obliged to excuse her I am anxious to have her see all she can of the
young people here, and the rank and manners of the Castagnets make them
very instructive companions. The Countess herself is as simple and
unassuming as a child - perhaps her pecuniary misfortunes have not been
without influence. Dear, sweet Mme de Gautier came in as the Castagnets
went out. It was a little odd, for we had just been speaking of her, and
my guests had bestowed the warmest encomiums on her person, manners, and
character. I never see her without increased admiration. The misfortune
of the Miniscalchiâs in the loss of their lovely daughter - Teresina -
seemed to have brought back her own great sorrow with overpowering
freshness and she controlled herself with much difficulty in alluding to
it. The Avezzanas followed her and by the time their visit was over the
two hoursâ dancing-lesson was at an end too. I must not forget to
mention that I had had in the meantime another visiter, Baron Tecco, who
has just come back from another visit to Constantinople, and with whom
we talked about the East with great pleasure.
Our merry Christmas turned out rather sorry, than merry. We had been
obliged to warn off our Christmas dinner-guests because I could not sit
up long enough to be at the table, and this morning Mr Marsh found
himself very feverish from a fresh cold, and Carrie was unable to lift
up her head from her pillow from a disagreeable billious attack. We saw
no visitors except the Kossuths whom Mr Marsh received by himself -
Carrie was able to be out again today, went to pay a visit to the
Castagnets, and leave sundry cards for me. Unluckily she missed a visit
from Miss Menabrea and Miss Bert both of whom came during her absence.
After the Berts left I had an hour and a halfâs visit from Count
Gigliucci, a man of sense and spirit, but scarcely a match for his wife
in these respects. We talked almost exclusively of Italian and American
affairs. I asked him if we should have a European war in the Spring.
âTemo, temo,â was his answer, âbut for us it would be better if we could
wait one more year.â During our evening reading occurred the word
scuriosirsi which amused us all, and made Mr Marsh remember a passage he
had been reading during the day from Gulianiâs, Vivente Linguaggio della
Toscana. page 200, second edition I quote it here, saying first that the
occasion of the prayer referred to, was a plague of beetles which were
devouring the young chestnuts. When the pious procession formed to
exorcise if possible these little evil spirits had arrived at the
appointed place on the mountains the priest. âfece una predica che tutti
tremevamo; gridava con una voce piĂč forte del tuono: âMio Dio, mio Dio,
Salvatemi il mio popolo, venga il gastigo addosso a me che sono il
peccatoreâŠmandate solo a me il vostro flagello. Se portate rispetto a
questi sacri panni, ecco che io me ne spoglioâ, e si levĂČ la stola e il
camice. Misericordia! allora la gente urlavano con dei pianti che
spietravano i sassiâŠcerte grida si sentivano rintronare per le selve che
facevano pietĂ anco alle piante. O, che vuole? come sâera tornati a piĂš
del monte il bruechi maledetti si staccavano dalle piante, facendo come
deâ fili di seta. Cascarono tutti, brulicavano in terra, che parea un
mondo di formiche Si vide subito che il Signore Benedetto ci aveva fatto
la grazia. I castagni quellâanno si rivestirono piĂč belli; e fecero una
moltitudine di castagne, che non se ne videro mai tante. Negli anni
dopo, non comparve piĂč quel malanno. Creda, quel sacerdote ira proprio
un vomo di Dio, faceva del bene assai.â
Mrs Tottenham brought Lucy early to spend the day, and, like a good
kind friend as she is, gave me some very valuable hints about some
persons we are likely to be thrown in with frequently this winter. With
regard to one of the persons, the only one I have yet met, a single
interview had brought me to precisely Mrs Tottenhams conclusions, and I
had already put Mr Marsh and Carrie on their guard. / The Countess
Ghirardi made me a most gracious visit, and brought the key of the box
that we might hear the Opera tonight by passing through our own
apartment into it as we used to do the first winter we were here. She
gave me a long history of her vexations in trying to keep up the wealth
and glory of the dâAngennes family, and would have talked till evening
had not the Baron Visconti come in and cut her short. The old soldier,
now in his 74th year is as erect and elastic as a ordinary man of 40. I
had a long and pleasant talk with him, and after he left, had only time
to go to the Library and tell Mr Marsh of the old gentlemanâs visit when
the Baroness Gautier was announced with her two nieces. The Baroness
herself never looked or appeared more lovely, but she was suffering much
from debility, especially from pain in her eyes - those most beautiful
of eyes. The young
people talked English with each other, and the Gautiers did
wonderfully well considering the long short time they have been taking
lessons. While the Baroness was still with me Mme de Rothan came in, and
I was glad to have two such women meet - a Protesta Protestant and a
Catholic, it would be difficult to find a more favourable specimen of
each religion. Perhaps Mme de Gautier might once have had more personal
beauty, but Mme Rothan has the advantage of youth and a far better
education. The former is remarkably intelligent, has read considerable,
and keeps up with the great political interest of the day, the latter
adds to a first rate education that perfect intellectual balance which
ought always to be the result of it, but so often is not. Her
familiarity with the great writers of our day on Theology, Biblical
Criticism & metaphysics made me ashamed of my own shortcomings, but
all she said was so free from every thing like a consciousness of
knowing more than others, so evidently the result of a deep sense of the
infinite importance of the great questions discussed, of long &
patient thought, of an earnest and almost enthusiastic looking forward
to a new era for Christianity, an era which was to show it forth more
gloriously than ever before, that one forgot her in her subject as she
forgot herself. I am indeed happy to have made such an acquaintance - oh
how unlike the English & American idea of a French woman!
We had such a day of hurry & confusion, servants to be sent in so
many directions &c &c. I shall be too thankful when these
melancholy days are over. Surely our great Poet forgot Christmas &
N. Years when he called our Autumn days âthe saddest of the yearâ! The
dear old Marchese dâArconati was almost the only visitor with whom I
could have sat quietly for an hour as I did to-day without showing my
impatience. Madame Piria & daughter took her place when she left,
but did not stay long enough to wear off the charm of their delightful
Italian, so I held out. Mr M. & C. went to a party at the Mayhews in
the evening & alas, brought home a fresh list of visits to be
made.
The Marquis Arconati and Melegari were among my afternoon visitors -
both most hearty in their congratulations on the brightening prospects
of our country. I have felt very ill all day and conclude now that
Carrie is dressed for the Giletta party to take a Doverâs powder, or
good Mme Rocciâs syrup, and go at once to bed.